Okay, first the introduction (and I'll be brief and hopefully entertaining - if you're here to help me, just scroll down a touch, thanks):

My name is Tom, I'm in my early 30s, and I own a 95 GLE. About 12 years ago, I bought an 85 Rx-7, and it has been my plaything ever since (there's a point to this, I promise). Since rotary engine mechanics are few and far between, I've done everything from an engine rebuild to interior replacement on it. I am not a mechanically inept individual. However, since the Maxima is a fun car but needs to be reliable transportation for my family, I do not currently have plans to mod it. I love the ***** it has, but when it comes to zipping down the highways, I choose my 7.

That being said, I love the Maxima when I "have" to drive it, and I can see my keeping this car for many years and modding it once it's completed family duty.



Okay, with that out of the way; here's my problem. 2 weeks ago, I discovered that I had a blown head gasket. I received a very large quote for labor + machine work + parts, and decided to source a replacement engine instead. I found a 97 engine+AT for a song (with low miles) and swapped the engine out.

Once I recognized that there were extra emissions-related sensors on the 97 block, I swapped over the 95 vacuum lines. Easy enough, right?

Well, somewhere in there I made a mistake that many folks have probably done before (although searching doesn't seem to give me too much info) - I forgot where the numerous hoses went.

Sure, some of them are easy, but a few appear able to go multiple places, and I don't want to get it wrong. The AutoZone images appear to be based on a California block with extra lines, but remember, I'm now doing the 95 emissions again, and my 95 engine does not have the California emissions. I took too few images of the lines (in spite of knowing how problematic they can be) and I now have 2 or 3 lines that I'm not entirely sure where they go.

If the 95 FSM has good diagrams, I'll wait for a PM to show the way (google didn't help too much, perhaps I used the wrong terms). Otherwise, I'm going to head out there with my cam, and take pics of the offending items.

I probably won't be too active here (the Maxima is a bit too reliable), but I'm going to try and not be a stranger. I have experience I can give to the community, and if there were more hours in a day, I'd have no problems spending time here and running up a proper post count

Also, would the old 95 block be good for anything (core for rebuild), or should I just offer up parts for fair prices?

Thanks in Advance (and pics to come),
--pratch

 

Top picture solved:

Next...


This one is the smaller hose from the resonator right next to the MAF.






Okay - the single line is the "top" line from the frontmost (as it relates to the front of the car) cluster of vacuum lines. The bunch on the right are the ones whose rears I'm not sure about.

It should be noted at this point, that this picture was from before I got to the point where I am now. I have the ends visible in this picture pretty much taken care of now.

I can see where they connect to the frontmost cluster or other locations, but I'm not 100% and when I'm not 100% I get nervous


Your help is appreciated. Thanks.

 

I guess I should mention that pics of the appropriate non-california emissions would do me worlds of good. I'm starting to see that perhaps the differences on the 97 block were due to california emissions, not necessarily that it was a 97.

Thanks again.

**Update**:


The FSM diagrams under Engine Controls don't show me the terminus of the lines I'm curious about (unless I'm just being obtuse). This is definitely frustrating me and this is the last step before I reinstall the battery and see how she runs.

 

Hi Practch

I dont mean to hijack this thread but i cant create any in the main 4th gen forum

Here is my prob

I just put a 98 engine in my 95 maxima and i have some issues with the vacuum lines. I have two sensors with not enough plugs and i need help to make this thing idle right.

It works great but when im stopped and have it in gear it will idle at 1500rpm
and neutral it is normal around 650. I know i dont have the MAP/Baro connected properley and some sort of positive control sensor.

any help is greatly appreciated.

thanks

 

Tarzan, if you didn't get the 98's wiring harness (and possibly ECU), you'll want to retain the vacuum lines from the 95.

Traditionally speaking, if you're going to swap an engine from a different year, you need to swap its harness, and any updated computers with it.

YMMV SPSFD

I don't mind the hijacking (I resisted the urge for ~17 posts myself) since your problem and my problem are pretty closely related.

How about it? Can anyone here help either of us? Thanks.

 

tough one to figure out....

 

nice post ... hhmmm was it your number 15 so you could create new topics...

that rule has to be the gayest thing ever .. .i am replying to random thread with some help to people.. but look at this guy.. HHHHMMM tough one thanks good imput now take your 15 post and jam it

 

im not to sure what YMMV SPSFD means and i didnt get the wire harness. I wanted some help to either disconect the uneeded sensors or re rute the hoses so it worked like my 95 .. im sure it is posible.. 95 was the years that supose to be the fastest due to less air management and emissions crap.. before i cut it all out .. i wanted to see if anyone could help

thanks

Corey

 

Take a picture of your engine bay around the intake, might make things a little less tough, thanks.



As for the 15-post rule; it happens. I run one of the premier sites for 1st Gen Rx-7 knowledge. We've chosen a different way of handling new folks, but the larger Rx-7 board doesn't. They get a massively low signal to noise ratio as a result.

It seems to me that the folks running this board have the system in place for a reason. I might not like it, but it is what it is and it helps (somewhat) to reduce the maintenance headache of a board this size.

Everything in life is a trade off

YMMV SPSFD

(Your mileage may vary, see participating stores for details)

As for the removing extra stuff; some of the vacuum lines have extra routes that will need to be capped, etc. Which is why I made the comments about switching everything. I too was facing what you were, and my choice was to switch over the front and back hardline clusters. Everything else appears to be the same (with as you said, a few extra sensors). Want me to take some pics of my before-and-after? Although I started this thread looking for help for myself, if I can help you out perhaps the car gods will look kindly upon me

 

i dont think i can post pics on this board yet but if i can i will post some of the two sensors and the hard lines that i need to re route or cap as you say.

i didnt meant to seal your thread ... but in look at the replies your not getting much help. hahhaha sorry! Im open to help you out if you need anything. As i said in my post i put the engine in myself so im pretty good and today was the first day looking at the pdf manual i have. the manual is for 98 so i know what it is im looking at but i dont have info on how the lines run on the 95 .. it is very hard to see ever with my other engin out .. i havent taken off the intake yet but i might have to!

if you think your pics will help me please feel free but i dont want to make you do any work with no result.

let me know if you want a link to the pdf 98 FSM and ill get it to you!

Cheers

Corey

 

I have the 95 FSM and at this point, nothing on the engine is 97-specific. My problems are 100% related to my inability to see which hoses are supposed to go where in the pictures I posted. From what pictures (well, the one) in the 95 FSM, it looks like I have them right, but the small one from the resonator doesn't show in the FSM diagrams - hence my request for pics.

I'll take a few quick pictures just for you and put them in your shiny new thread.

Cheers.

 

Welcome to the org!

 

well i know the vacuum gallery very well. i redid my hoses compleatly.

but the easiest way to get the dieagram for the engine is to look on the underside of the hood. they have the diagram for the perticular motor under the hood. a 95 fed spec is not that much different from the 96-98 and 95 cali spec. the 95 fed has one less solenoid (because of mechanical evap system with the charcoal canister under the hood) and no boost sensor (map switch).
IIRC the solenoids are
Green= EGR
Black= Evap
Brown= MAP sensor

if you really need a diagram i can get one.

 

By all means, hook me up JSutter and thanks a billion in advance.

The under-hood diagram leaves me scratching my head a bit too much.

 

ok i have all the drawings in my parents garage. ill have to whip up a MS paint jpg and post it up.

the original hard lines really make it confusing. there are only a few real hoses. resonator (ambient), intake manifold (vacuum), egr (runs the backpressure transducer), evap (runs the vacuum , map (pressure sensor) which is not on you 95.

oh also one of the vacuum ports on the intake that leads to one of the solenoids differes between years. on some years its before the throttle plate and some its after. your need to check on your original intake manifold to fine out.

if you look on your hood where the insulation is, there should be an emmisions sticker on there. it tells you the vacuum route specific to the engine. if you have a haynes manual on page 6-2, picture 1.7b, shows a typical diargam. its accutally a 95 fed spec diagram. the egr and evap run off the same solenoid.

 

ok i made a pic, but you are going to have to figure out how the spaghetti works on your car. this is the simple version, just the basics. its very simple.

 

I think that might help. Thanks.

What about the line coming up from the top of the tranny? Is that unattached as I suspect?

 

yes that stays open at one end. its just a breather for the transmission.

 

Thanks again. I'm going to let it warm up a bit before heading out to get her running. I'll post here when I know.

 

Just to toss in the fact that in 95 there are 2 different emissions equipped vehicles. ODBI and ODBII as well. Emissions, mostly EVAP are completely different on both 95 models.

 

Okay - trying to do this in a more clear manner now. First, 3 pictures:




If pic 2 isn't clear enough, it's the throttle body.


Okay, I presently have the red line from pic 1 going into nub 2 (pic 2).

I also have line 5b capped, and line 5a going to nub 3.

I have line 6 going to nub 1.

I have line 7 going to the cannister.

I'm pretty sure one or more of these are incorrect, as there isn't anywhere obvious to put the small hose from the resonator chamber of the air filter assembly.

So, hopefully this is more clear as to what help I'm needing. Sorry for not being more clear in the first place. Do I have lines red, 5b, 5a, 6, and 7 in the right spots?

Thanks again in advance.

 

Well, I'm going to call it a success.

The small line from the resonator doesn't have a home, however:

The engine idles at 650
There is no check engine light
I've driven for about 10 minutes to gas up
I've gone past 4K rpm

Thanks for the assistance. I'm declaring the engine transplant a success for now, and if anyone wants to read my descriptions and tell me if I've routed something incorrectly, I'm okay with that

I'll post another thread if I discover any ghosts in the machine.

Cheers,
--Tom

 

Pratch,

Not to thread hijack, but just to explain the 15 post rule. That was implemented to deter spammers. We were getting alot of them at one time, and it was just too difficult to moderate.


Free bump. Good luck with your engine install.

 

There is an idle screw near the throttle body that you might have to adjust to get your idle correct. I think it's a gray screw.

 

Oh, I understand the reasoning behind it. I run a 1st Gen Rx-7 site. However, we chose to combat the problem through IP bans and moderation. 15 just seemed a bit high, but I personally understand the reasoning behind it - it makes it a lot easier to run a site like this if there are less problems.

The person who was slamming the guy trying to get his 15th post was because he contributed absolutely nothing to this thread with his post. I took the time to at least give information in my 15 posts (and realize that I'm the exception, not the rule).

That's neither here nor there. I thought 650 was just fine for an AT idle, but I also come from the rotary realm where I can have my engine idle at 250 rpm if I wanted

I still have one stray hose, and I think I'm going to have my mechanic (heh) check it out when I have him do a compression test (yes, I can do that myself, but as much as I can swap an engine and take care of my own car; I am a graphic designer and web developer - NOT a mechanic).

Cheers.