I've been researching the, ever saught out MEVI, looked at the power graphs between the two and what is needed to do the swap. My question is a possible $1200 upgrade, really worth it? I've read that it makes your car "feel more complete" and that with the JWT chip you dont loss your midrange and just scream all the way to 7200RPM. I'm seriously considering this modification but just need to know if i save all my money and buy everything at once...can i do it in a weekend or so and do it without pulling my hair out. Also is there any significant difference between the MEVI and OOVI? Thanx for your time

 

There is tons of diffrence between 00vi. if you researched you shouldn't find a couple of threads stating stuff like Mevi= lost of low end and better mid-high range but is a direct bolt on pretty much and that 00vi= better all around gains, you dont loose low-end at all. You get gains all thru out your powerband. i think peek overall gain is 5-7hp/ torque for the most part. I don't know because i haven't researched it because i dont plan on getting it but i mean i came across the 10+ threads stating this so its kinda hard not to pick up tid bits on it. The overall installation of a 00vi can be done in many many ways. And also could be done over a weekend. some people who are good can knock this project out within 1/2 day or so. Its not too hard. But price for the mod is almost a price of a DE-K engine. Something to factor in as well. Just keep researching and you will find what you need. All the info you ever need is around this forum somewhere. if you feed up with looking . Donate $20 to the site and the search option will be open to you.

TurTLe*

 

$1200 for a MEVI? What are you talking about? It shouldn't be anywhere near that expensive.

 

You should be able to pick up a mevi for about $400 and then $600 for a JWT. I would do the 00VI though, because of the better low end power. You don't need the JWT right away, I've been running about 4 months without a JWT, the ecu is currently sitting at a fed ex location near my house, I should have it on tuesday. The low end loss isn't too noticable or that big of a deal if you do go with the mevi.

Both the mevi or 00VI will make a big difference, once you hit 5000rpm, the call will keep pulling instead of falling flat.

 

Definetly get both mevi and ecu at the same time though, I have mevi with stock ecu and it sucks, Im no faster and there are no fun torque spikes anywhere. It just goes evenly to "redline" my shift point at 6k

 

MEVI = $361.95
http://www.nismoparts.com/catalog/?section=577

JWT ECU = $595
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/cus...asp?PartID=160

Around $950+ Shipping for both new.

 

Since when are you REQUIRED to have an ECU?

 

Since the thread starter was talking about BOTH.

 

He never said he had to have both. In fact, he was more following the notion that most people think you have to have both...which is wrong. My post was merely pointing out the fact that indeed, you do not have to have both.

 

You don't need to have both but IMO having the MEVI/00VI without a raised rev limit is half-arsed. It really doesn't matter what low-end you lose because simply put, a car (with other bolt-ons) that is in the 14.8 range will dip into the 14.3-14.5 range.

 

dek's are 500 bucks???

 

engine replacement labor >> intake mani labor

You could also say 75-shot nitrous for 500 bucks.

Back on topic, 00VI is slightly better than a MEVI. More work involved to make it work though.

 

I'm gonna have to look into that then!

 

Everyone is throw the ECU in because with an new manifold most want a raised rev-limited.

The re-tuned ecu + new manifold is where most of the gain will come from. If you dont want or car for a raised rev-limiterl, get a VAFC2 and have the car tuned and you'll see the best gains possible. At a decent shop you just might be tuned better than JWT, or Technosquare.

actually you'd have less of an headache putting the DE-K than putting the 00VI on.

Surprisingly the price difference is very minimal (assuming your doing the work yourself). You can find a decent DE-K for $400-$600 on car-part.

 

well man...i might just pop in a de-k instead then if i can get the hook up. especially for how much praise it gets. and its rated at 220 hp isnt it? that hp increase doesnt only exist in the intake manifold, does it?

 

yes 222hp, but thats due to the manifold, plus cams, and a few other things.

Putting the DE-K would be less of a headache and maybe more cost effective if your able to do it youself (free) and can get a free loan on engine hoist, etc.

Plus parting out the old DE-K could help bring in a few bucks here and there.

 

you mean the old DE.

that route is starting to seem awesome. im excited.

 

sorry yea I ment the old DE

 

Its mostly the engine, but part of it is in the exhaust too.

 

Not really. It's all VIAS and exhaust cams.

 

which ever manifold you go with, get the car tuned afterwards.



too many untuned max's running around here

 

Does the DE-K use the same EGR and emissions equiptment? From the way you all are talking about it it sounds like it is the same as swapping in another VQ30DE. The y-pipe would have to be similar (if not the same) to the 99 cali-spec 4th gens is that right? What other factors are there?

 

I'm wanting to know too fr33way.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=422573&pp=30

 

Thanks!!11one

 

no prob

 

I agree, with a MEVI the ecu helps bring back some of that lost low end. With out the ecu, whats the point of the mevi if the rev limiter kicks in right when the MEVI is just starting to kick in.
When I first put on the MEVI, I ran it withe a G force ecu, no raised rev limiter.
I then ran it with an OEM ecu while i sent the G force ecu to Technoquare to see if they could raise the rev limter. Driving with the MEVI and an OEM ecu really sucked compared to it with the G force. Now that I have the JWT, its an even better setup.

 

Just purchased a DEK. $690 for the motor and parts and labor warentee for 6 months, ONLY 8,557 miles on it !!! Its been sitting for over 4 years. Cant wait to get it in

Im actually not doing the labor myself. My buddy is charging me $100 out, $100 in. New clutch and alternator, and flywheel, and motor mounts. Everything is going to add up to about $2000.

-matt

 

lucky man! that motor is pretty much brand new!

 

Going to pick it up friday. I ran the VIN through Carfax and Had the ESN on the block matched to the VIN. Everything checks out perfect so far.

-matt

 

you have an adapter plate for the blower to go on the DE-k?

 

Direct fit 95-01

When I did my V1 Plate project, I test fitted it on the side of the DEK. Some slight differences, but nothing to alter the install or the belt aligment

-matt

 

looks like some serious power is comming your way!

 

I may be getting a T-Trim but shhhhhh. Emange is a definete in the summer. I really dont wanna dump this brand NEW V2 blower I have though. Would be a shame

 

@ T-Trim!!

would love to see a max sporting that. Emanage blue or Ultimate?

post your V2 in the F/S section from now, if you get the T-Trim, someone might pick it up.

 

Ultimate for sure.

Yea I dont think there will be a problem selling it at all. Im just saying the V2 is Brand NEW. Running this blower wont be new unless I buy it and rebuilt it right away. Something to think about the next few days.

Im getting alot of stuff for this motor install. Clutchnet 6 puck sprung hub clutch, New flywheel surface for my Fidanza, Nissan Alternator, ES Motor Mounts, and possibly headers. Id hate to have the motor out and not change the headers. Everyone sais these dont do anything, but I cant see how they dont ???? Id hate to pay for Cattmans, since I just bought my 3" Y

 

Quality header will help, especially with that high flowing Blower, tuned with the Emanage Ultimate!! Better exhaust flow.

You'd have one heck of a beast on your hands with that setup. Once you fab up an adapter plate for the blower to the vq.

 

Well are those headers good, or no ?

No Adaptor plate is needed to mount it to the DEK.

-matt

 

FACT....

The power you gain at the top-end is equal to the power you lose in the low/mid-range with the MEVI w/o a raised rev-limiter. (quoted right from the MEVI FAQ) That's when you will need the upgrade on the ECU. If you frequent the track, running the MEVI w/o the ecu will hurt your times. Many in here who got the MEVI w/o the ECU have attested to this. If all you care about is top end speed, then you don't need the ECU. You'll just be a slug off the line. You decide where you want to put the power.

 

Just to clarify, there is no low-end loss. The losses are exclusively in the mid-range.