Hunter11

iTrader: (1)

It seems like there have been quite a few post on this but I really need some help to figure this out. My car will run fine and at a stop light or whatever the RPMs will jump like crazy, the engine sputters and if I don't hit the gas it will die and not start up too easily. Sometime it will die no matter what I do. But at times it will run like it should.

I will also be going 70mph or so and it will feel like the engine loses power.

I haven't had the first CEL and I have checked and all I get is 0505.
The shop I took it to didn't even charge me b/c they actually couldn't find what was wrong with it. They just told me to call them if I found out what it was just so they would know!

The obvious fixes are :
1) TPS (replaced)
2) Ignition Coils (shop said there was no misfiring)
3) Clean IACV, Throttle Body (Done recently)


I have done all of these but still the same.

I know I need to check the coils my self but I am confrused on how to use my multimeter. Can some one help with that?

What else do I need to do? I am sick of driving the car this way and it is pretty dangerous.

What do my symptoms sound like?

Please help!!!

Hunter11

iTrader: (1)

Bump^^^^^^^^

Vlasic

iTrader: (13)

Check your MAF. Its possible for your MAF to start dying out but not throw a code. My car was having the exact same problem when my MAF was on its last legs.

bobjohnson

iTrader: (2)

start off checking the coils................... do this.

keep the car running. pop the hood and disconnect each plastic coil/injector part. Do it 1 at a time. you will hear the engine loose power if the coils are working correctly & u disconnect it.
Once you pull the right coil.... youll know it b/c the engine idle will stay the same rough way it has been. then thats the coil.
when you pull the others youll notice the cars idle drop drastically. plug that back in, its working correctly then...

I personally think its a O2 sensor but i could be wrong.
WAIT to reset ur ECU.... let the car mess up enough and it will give you a code. If you keep resetting the ECU then it will never catch the code.

Hunter11

iTrader: (1)

I checked the MAF. I did the back probing thing and from what I saw the voltage was correct.

I also keep the car running and pulled the connectors on each coil. It was running rough in the first place but it seemed to run a little rougher every time I unpluged a connctor. I was lucky,I guess,it did decide to run rough and cut off while it was idling. It usually will run fine until I drive then stop.

What I also discovered was that there is an oily substance shooting out of the exhaust. It is landing on the garage door and floor. What problem does this sound like?

I also took out the plugs to have a look and they are black. Not oily but black. Is this a bad sign. They have maybe 5k on them I will take a pic and post it. I am gonna take the coils to be tested but I am begginning to beleive that they aren't the problem. Is there a way to test the o2?

Thanks for the suggestions and I will really appreciate more help to figure this problem out.

dt_reed95

Ive got the same problem and it is your MAF mines doin it right now and my friend own a shop and we ran it on the computer and thats the problem i hope you have good luck with it....another thing is they are 200 + dollars brand new and i purchased mine at a junk yard for 75 bux and i made sure i got a warranty on it good luck also does it mainly do it when u get on it or all the time bcuz mine does it mainly when i rev out harder and only sometimes when i go easy on her

Hunter11

iTrader: (1)

Mine was on diagnostic machine the other day and it say anything about the MAF and I did a test and it tested ok. What did your test say. Was it specifically your MAF?

Vlasic

iTrader: (13)

Like I said in my previous post. Your MAF can be bad and it wont show a CEL and a diagnostic machine will read it as ok. Do you have any friends that drive maximas? Try and find someone who will switch mafs with you for like 15 minutes and that will tell you for sure if its the maf or not.

Hunter11

iTrader: (1)

I took some photos so I can get a better idea of what I need to do next.

First is the oil or what ever that shooting out of the exhaust......
What would cause this?

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member.../188497_11.jpg


Here are the way the plugs look with about 5k on them. A little blurry but they are too covered in black if you ask me...

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...9/188497_9.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member.../188497_13.jpg

Here are my coils. Can someone tell me exactly how to test them with my multimeter. I have attached a pic of that too. I need to know what setting to put it on. I have the Haynes but I am not sure if I am testing them right.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member.../188497_10.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member.../188497_12.jpg

Hunter11

iTrader: (1)

That is true. I know one guy at work that has a '96. I actually thought about asking him about this before but I was thinking of trying his coils.

bobjohnson

iTrader: (2)

you should see the spot behind my car... alot more than that...

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member.../188497_11.jpg

The plugs look fine.
like i was saying. if you remove every coil individually.
ONCE you pull the BAD COIL. the the cars RPMS wont change!
IF they are good. and you remove it, Then the RPMS will drop..
Its really the only way to test the coils right.
I will say this. I had a coil that the connect had to be disconnected and reconnected really hard for it to work right..

If your saying it stalling and dying when you stop it can be alot of things. It might be the MAF but check all ur hoses n crap. lemme know man.

ronin22357

iTrader: (14)

check to see your TPS is adjusted correctly too

blacck_dragon

Yes, check that your TPS adjusted. ALSO I had a similar problem BUT only when the engine was cold, turns out my throttle body was so dirty that the black sood in the throttle body was limiting the movement of the throttle therefore, it would stall when the engine was cold. So clean and verify the throttle body if already did all the above.

Hunter11

iTrader: (1)

Well, it was officially my MAF. That is a huge relief. It was a ***** to drive with all the sputtering and the car dying at red lights and hard to start, spitting black stuff, and terrible gas mileage.
I think this is a huge glitch if the ECU can't catch that. I had the car just cut off more than once while I was turning and the power steering go out. Thank God nothing was in the way.

For the record Vlasic was correct...I had no codes, diagnostic machine said nothing, no misfire or codes. The car ran like crap.

Just glad you all helped to find the problem.
I went ahead and bought a new one from Advance auto for $225 but I guess it is worth it if it runs right.