My I30t is rusted and I need a grounding kit because the lights are dimming too much when the bass hits on my system. Also I just feel like the car is not getting enough electricity at times even though my battery is fine and my alt works good too. I've searched for the past 45 minutes and I cannot find anywhere that sells grounding kits for 96 maximas WITH instructions other than $130 at Stillen.com which I refuse to pay for specially after I paid $120 for their intake which wasn't all that beneficial to begin with (and is now off the car).

So if anyone can recommend to me someone or somewhere that I can give some business to and buy a grounding kit w/ instructions for my 96 I30t I'd highly appriciate it.

 

Go get some 4 gauge wire and make your own. This guide will show your where they go.
http://www.activetuning.com/products...stallation.php

....by the way, i have one...I dont see much of a differance.

 

buy the one from ebay...generic ones and follow the guide

 

What size is your amp? Ever consider installing a farad cap?
That should help.

 

You should do the big 3 upgrade, a grounding kit will help a little but not as much as the big 3.

 

Matt has a kit for sale that's $40. I made my own, it's not that hard, just get some 8awg wires and terminals and use the instructions listed above or here

 

Caps are not much more than paper weights, and will not do anything but mask a more severe problem.

I would suggest cleaning ur stock grounds and removing the rust, allowing them to make better contact and that should fix your problem. If not go on ebay and search grouding kit buy one and use this write up http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ghlight=Ground

 

well i would try a cap over a groudning kit, grounding kits do not do mucha at all. if you battery and altenator are putting out good numbers then there is no reason why your car should nto be getting enought power. try claning your grounding points.

how does it feel like your car is not getting enough power?

 

i agree, ground kits are a waste of money, just go out there and clean your ground conncetions

 

A cap will just mask the problem. Definately not the way to go. Just do like has been suggested, clean the rust and clean all the grounds you'll be ok.

 

First off thank you all for your input. My amp is only 600 watts and it's powering a bazooka subwoofer, which may I say sounds so much cleaner than most of the systems out there with 2 or 3 subs. Anyways, I'm going to see what this $40 kit is that Matt is selling, and of course when I install it I'm going to clean up the contact points on the car to clear the rust. Thanks again guys you're all very helpful.

 

You guys who say capacitors "just mask the problem" are crazy! Do you not understand how capacitors work, or are you just ignorant? Basically, here's the deal Haibert in simple terms - you added an amplifier to your car which is asking for current draws when the bass needs to hit. The harder the hit, the more current required. Now, you definately don't have a large amp/sub setup, but keep in mind that this wasn't planned into the original set-up designed by Nissan. When the amp needs the power, it sucks the power through the wire run from the battery which I am guessing (or I should say am hoping is at least an 8 gauge wire). So it sucks power through this 8 gauge wire and away from the other electronics in your car (headlights for example). Now, upgrading the size of the wire will help somewhat (think of drinking a milkshake through a stiring straw vs a boba straw) but it will still ask for current to be taken away from the other electronics all of a sudden. What a cap does is basically give you a reserve of power right next to the amp so the amp draws current out of the cap and the cap can slowly refill so that it does not demand high amounts of current all of a sudden. I am in no way against grounding kits (I probably have the biggest grounding kit known to man done on my car), but don't be suprized if your headlights still dim. This was a problem caused by the addition of an amp and needs to be fixed by the addition of a capacitor. And before any of you "geniuses" decide to try to question my authority on this topic, let me just inform you that I am a car audio manager and have been doing car electronics for many, many years now. Not that this means you can't question me, but just think before you challenge my thousands of installs with the 2 you have done in your backyard.

 

I love car audio and I love you too Ryan! heh...I know you're right. I'll do the grounding kit first because I just have this weird feeling the car is not getting the electricity it needs, maybe because it was an out of state car and the whole thing is rusted (including the contacts). After that I might add the cap, but like you said my set-up is no where near what you'd usually see with a capacitor add on. Thanks for your advice! BTW since you done so much car audio, let me tell you something...I've seen many cars with aftermarket audio put in there and I've never came accross one that has the clear and distortion free sound I get from my system. I was real surprised with the sound and so was the guy who did the install (he did a CLEAN job). All I have is that triangular bazooka sub along with a California Profile 600 watt amp....Keep in mind I've always wanted something like 2 or 3 12" PPI subs with PPI amps and etc etc but I'm so happy with this set up you wouldn't believe it!

 

if looking for a ground kit, i would suggest sport compact only

 

make your own grounds by simply scratching off the paint off of the surface in which best fits you.

 

Update to everyone : I got one of those universal grounding kits with the 6 connection round thing that goes on the negative of the battery. It didn't solve my issue I had with the lights dimming when I roll down the windows but I did notice my headlights were brighter (I ran 2 grounds directly to the headlight's grounds, and a couple around the engine)...I don't know if it was worth $40 but I can't complain. Thanks for all the help guys!

 

Check your negitive cable, it may be corroded where it bolts into the body below the air filter/battery, especially if your car came from somewhere that has snow/salt. See if it's starting to turn green.

 

You know what, I took the battery out I couldn't find the cable that goes there. All that was there originally was a cable from the negative to the engine, a thick one, which had oxidation going on inside from what I saw (I guees I need to replace that).

 

If it's all correded, replace it and see what happens.

 

That's the one, it should bolt into the body on the way to the engine. I could see that my wire was all greenish blue inside of the jacket surrounding the wire. That could be your problem. Try to rough up the surface of the plate that connects the wire to the engine when you replace it.

 

Cool......thanks bro....I'll let you guys know what happenes.

 

hey good luck with what you need to do.
sorry to hear that grounding kit didn't help much, but a grounding kit is a grounding kit. are you sure your car is acting that way because of that?
maybe its something else.
Grounding kits can only help to a certain extent you know. Good luck.

peter

 

The car is out of state, and full of rust...I think I'm done spending money on this car, I'll just drive it till it's dead....Thanks everyone

 

So, the kit didnt help much?

 

A I30 has been treated this badly?!?!?

 

qft, a capacitor will do much more for you than a grounding kit ever will in your situation. its like a second battery, but only stores energy when it is energized, hard to explain, but when the bass hits hard, itll pull the needed extra juice fromt the capacitor instead of straining the hell out of your charging system