Caliper slider pins seized - change the pins or new mounting bracket?
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Caliper slider pins seized - change the pins or new mounting bracket?
Was doing a quick brake pad change and noticed one of my REAR slider pins is siezied up. Other one moves freely and the rubber boot/seal all looks fine.
The pin is really stuck in there but I think I can bang it out. Can I just replace the slider pin with a new one or do I have to change out the complete caliper mounting bracket?
Any experience would be helpful.
The pin is really stuck in there but I think I can bang it out. Can I just replace the slider pin with a new one or do I have to change out the complete caliper mounting bracket?
Any experience would be helpful.
you can reuse the parts, but you have to remove all the corrosion. i had a stuck pin and the hole was fine because it was protected in the grease. i put the pin in a drill and sanded it clean. then i removed all the old grease and regreased everything. make sure you dont use too much grease. the pin needs to move easily and too much creates a vacuum sucking the pin in. it should slide in and out without sucking back it.
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Thanks buddy.
However, can anything else but corrosion hold a pin in that tight? Using vice grips, I can barely turn the screw but it does move slightly. Is it possible the pin is warped due to un-even pad wear?
Anyway, just for security reasons, dealer sells pins for like $8 so will get a new one jsut to be worry free. But I am curious to see if it actually is corrosion.
k.
However, can anything else but corrosion hold a pin in that tight? Using vice grips, I can barely turn the screw but it does move slightly. Is it possible the pin is warped due to un-even pad wear?
Anyway, just for security reasons, dealer sells pins for like $8 so will get a new one jsut to be worry free. But I am curious to see if it actually is corrosion.
k.
yeah, corrosion would lock it up in there pretty good. Think about it. You have a hole and a pin, and they hafta fit together in a way that there won't be much slop, so the tolerance between the two are tight. Once some stuff becomes locked in between them, they are essentially mated together. If you can get a new one for $8, I wouldn't worry about destroying the old one while getting it out.
Great post--I actually did two brake jobs on my car without paying attention to the pins. I suspect my back on one side is possibly sticking as the pad seems to be dusting a lot, and only have 30k on the rear. Although the car rolls on a hill in neutral--I guess that doesn't prove anything...
But I did check it carefully a couple weeks ago when I did the fronts for the 2nd time. After 120k on the road, the pins seem to be doing fine up front. I pushed them in and out and they slid well. One I popped out and the grease looked nice and clean. It's ludicrious how much damage can be done when a mfg. uses a cheap supplier of dust boots--a lot of extra parts and labor and premature wear. But, it is an evil car industry we're dealing with! *lol*
But I did check it carefully a couple weeks ago when I did the fronts for the 2nd time. After 120k on the road, the pins seem to be doing fine up front. I pushed them in and out and they slid well. One I popped out and the grease looked nice and clean. It's ludicrious how much damage can be done when a mfg. uses a cheap supplier of dust boots--a lot of extra parts and labor and premature wear. But, it is an evil car industry we're dealing with! *lol*
Originally Posted by JSutter
the pin needs to move easily and too much creates a vacuum sucking the pin in. it should slide in and out without sucking back it.
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