Ok so i searched for a hyperground write up for people who really have never done any kind of electrical fabrication (like me) and most of them were made with the assumption that the reader has some background with wiring and such. anyway, a lot of them lacked pics so i took some and will attempt to make a how-to. I did not take any pics of making the wiring but ill describe as best i can. if u see i messed something up please let me know!

materials i used--
>>>18+ feet of 8 gauge wire
I bought 20 feet of 8awg wire from radio shack for 24 cents per foot. It came off a large spool and it was red and said automotive wire all over it so I figured why not. I have about 3 feet left over. Each wire i needed, i just eyeballed how much i would need and cut it from the long piece, since i wasnt really trying to hide the wires but you can do what you want.
>>>a package of ring terminals
i bought this from advance auto parts, the smallest gauge they had was 10 i think so i had to strip a lot of wire down (probably reducing my 8 gauge to 10 gauge)
>>>electrical tape
>>>wire strippers
>>>razor blade
to trim anything
>>>10mm ratchet and extension
>>>battery post
advance
>>>grounding terminals
also from advance, it looks like a brass E and come in a package

This what it looks like when I finished.


1) cut wires to length
2) strip ends
3) attach either to ring terminal or to grounding connector
4) sand ground points
5) screw in

make sure the wires are in series, I personally did a daisy chain (where one wire goes to the next, not just going straight back to the battery)

Grounding points:
FACTORY INTAKE MANIFOLD GROUND (2)


FACTORY ALTERNATOR GROUND (if u dont know- between alternator and radiator...alternator is the roundish metal case on the pass side of bay, down low, with slits in it with a lot of copper wiring inside)


FACTORY PASS HEADLIGHT GROUND


NOT-FACTORY GROUND TO FIREWALL

 

did it make a difference?

 

old shot of when i skipped the alternator ground and grounded the engine


new configuration including alternator ground


not factory ground direct to chassis outside of chain


this was my chain order

neg battery terminal to intake manifold to alternator ground to factory pass headlight ground to firewall back to battery terminal

sorry i didnt measure any of the lengths exactly.

like i said in the other thread, my rpms are lower now and my a/c makes me idle at 900 rather than 1100 like before, among other little benefits. i would say this mod is about as important as the FSTB addition to the car, but it does look kinda good. hope this helps people

 

no offence but that is ugly....

 

A+ for writing an DIY mod which I always like reading here on the forum.
B- for the looks of the wiring.

I would try to make it a little bit more stealth and hide the wires more but that's just me. I wanted to do this mod for awhile now but since you posted that you got your wires from Radio Shack for cheap, I guess I can give it a try when I have time this weekend.

 

if the wires were routed right it would be a nice setup. get some black wire loom and hide the wires.

 

Damn that's gay, just called my local Radioshack and they said they don't sell the wire by the foot. Nice write-up, I would try to organize the wire so it looks better. (Cleaner)

 

What's that holding up your hood?
Why is your coolant resevoir cap missing?
Why don't you take that wire loom off the AC lines and cover the ground wires?

 

He does it ghetto style when ur hood struts call it quits. I use a peice of pvc pipe to hold my hood up Ya the coolant cap needs to be replaced bc you dont want random crap going into your system.

 

Most importantly... did it make any difference in the butt dyno?
Looks can be changed later... preformance is now!

 

this isnt a performance mod.

 

No offense but that looks horrible because of the wires going all over the engine bay.

 

points for effort but i would be ambarassed to show that off. like i said, you got the good idea and write up but i think myself and many other would want a cleaner setup......my $.02

 

I'm going to get some black ground wires and do it so it will look more discrete.

 

The wires need to be more incognito, especially the ones that are right over the valve cover fascia. Wires generally have to be tied down to safely secure them and prevent from entanglement.

 

if you are looking for parts, you can get every thing from http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=100-178

 

Screw that, shipping will be more than the wires itself if bought locally.

 

anyone know all the stock ground points? Don't know where all of them are. Gonna clean them and see if theres an imptovement.

 

There's one in the driver's side inner fender, two by the windshield fluid resevoir, one on the alternator bracket, two by the front fuel injectors, one on the bottom left corner of the valve cover (on a bracket), and of course the one that connects to the negative terminal of the battery.

 

couple things-
i did this same mod using a "nismo" kit off ebay and some radioshack wire and terminals. i did all the same grounds as you plus some more. mine looks WAY better and less random. my wires are routed around the engine nicely.
you should add a transmission ground and a started ground. i did, and that made the biggest difference in the world. sure my car idled better due to the grounding kit, but the biggest thing i noticed was how much better my AUTOTRAGIC shifted. the started ground wasnt necessary with me because my car starts fine anyway, but i just did it, what the hellll. anyway, just my .02 cents.

 

grounding kit made my lights brighter. I have one wire for alternator, one for transmission, one for intake manifold stuff and one from chassis to neg on battery.

I can't say it improved my shifts but the only result I was was that my headlights are brighter.

 

ill just respond to everyone

personally i dont like red and yellow all over the place either. i bought the smaller black wire loom yesterday evening

thanks it was my first actually. im pretty new when it comes to DIY. yea i think it will look better with the smaller wire loom.

see above. and by routed right you mean not across things, or in a different order?

they are retarded if they dont. i saw it in a 12" cube white box with a hole in the front with red "automotive" wire coming out that had a slash through the $.99/ft. and was advertised as $.24/ft. it was pretty nice wire. if i get a chance (and some $$ )might be able to just ship u some.

that would be one of my ice scrapers...my driveway is very slanted and the hood shocks cant handle the angle. my coolant resevoir cap is somewhere in a garage i got my car fixed when the thermostat was broken and 5 minutes of driving caused the temp to shoot right up to H. i considered taking that wire loom off but it is too big it is 3/4 inch diameter i think.

haha yea i know its ghetto but id rather do stuff at my house than drive to the parking lot at the pool. if u saw my driveway ud understand 10 year old shocks are no match. its w/e as long as i can get to it. the garage people say they didnt lose the cap either.

well the butt dyno didnt really feel much. everyone talks about how the car is "smoother" driving wise, but i didnt notice anything smoother about my shifts, maybe its smooth on auto trans. pressing the gas, i suppose is a little less hesitant, but its likely a placebo effect. i wouldnt say this is a serious performance mod. its more like having a start engine button on the interior: its functionality is overmastered by its looks and inherent satisfaction you feel "doing something" to your car.

see above

none taken i had already figured maxima.org and its mostly perfectionist tastes wouldnt like it but i probably should mention that before i put too much time into it (like with a lot more wires and buying more stuff) i wanted to see if these actually did anything beneficial, much like testing stereo equipment on your floor before it is drilled and routed through your drywall to look nice

see above

see above

ill say this the drivers side inner fender is quite difficult to get to without removing some parts like the corner light. i actually cant take mine out because the body shop bent the fender down onto it, so i had to skip that point.

im sure it does look better, but if you dont mind please be more specific, in that i could not find a diagram of the grounding points for those devices. i assume u mean find a screw attached to it, test it with a multimeter, then attach.

i suppose mine are brighter too, i actually was testing a headlight compared to my old ones so i only noticed the brightness difference there

 

so you didnt gound the block huh? or the drivers fender ground?

 

thos wires are goan melt all over youre vq30

 

i did ground the block at one point

actually i pressed them into whatever hot areas they touched for a considerable amount of time before driving the car and they didnt melt. when left alone they mostly touch the cover, but thats now beside the point because they have wire loom on them

 

A for effort, but IMO I would have used black wire, and made it more unnoticable.

 

How did you get the alternator ground bolt off? It seems to be stuck on mine.

 

rachet, socket, about 4" extension, lots of torque. the entire bracket would turn when i turned it at first but i just kept going from different degrees off zero and it eventually came free

 

I will tell you right now this ground kit isn't as effective as it should be.

1) Everything grounds back to the battery, than to the actual grounding tab on the engine block.
2) The ground wires are too long.

Here is my ground kit:
Note that everything grounds direct to the block, and the main ground is an overkill 0 guage size.

 

I'm not sure of the effectiveness of daisy chaining the grounds but the write up looked good.

 

Does anyone know where is the engine block ground point????

 

Follow the ground wire from the battery, it should lead back to the block tab.

 

you couldve use lil longer wire and make it look better atleast...

 

It looks like somebody silly-stringed the engine bay =)

 

This mod < cleaning all your OEM grounds.

 

Wow, this mod is very debateable, I'm leaning towards the doubters b/c I've tried two different setups and nothing has changed.

 

Why run this in series? Why not multiple drops back to the battery?

 

because people don't udnerstand what they're doing and simply think that sticking a bunch of wires on the engine is going to help the performance, without actually stopping to think about WHY they're doing it.

A properly designed kit, even with 12 or 18 awg wire will see improvements over the stock wiring. 8 awg is plenty and 4 awg is useless overkill. It's like sticking a 4" exhaust on a honda.

 

After running a few multimeter tests, the biggest difference in voltage I saw was about .5V. Im going to put a 4awg drop there and see if makes any improvment at all.

 

So what is the best type of setup for grounding?