well i just put in my s-techs with illumnas i have no idea what the read out sheet means from firestone.
front left :
Camber before- (-0.8-), after- (-0.9)
Caster before - (3.0), after - (3.0)
Toe- before- (-.71) after (.06)
SAI?? what does that mean? - before (15.2), after (15.3)
Included angle - before 14.4, after 14.4 ??
front right:
Camber before- (-0.7), after (-0.7)
caster before - (3.0), after (3.0)
Toe - before -(-.02), after (.06)
SAI - (15.5), after - (15.4)
Included angle, before
Included angle - before 14.7, after 14.7
any help on translation would be much appreciated what do all these firgures mean only thing i know is camber and its a little of from oem spec but i expected that bc of the s-tech drop but its only off like by (.2-.3) what are all the in increments of?? And are the results ok, bc i still get a lil pull to the left, im guessing the tech didn't adjust the strut bolt, and i paid 160 for their lftm alignment i hope its worth it, lol
Tim
front left :
Camber before- (-0.8-), after- (-0.9)
Caster before - (3.0), after - (3.0)
Toe- before- (-.71) after (.06)
SAI?? what does that mean? - before (15.2), after (15.3)
Included angle - before 14.4, after 14.4 ??
front right:
Camber before- (-0.7), after (-0.7)
caster before - (3.0), after (3.0)
Toe - before -(-.02), after (.06)
SAI - (15.5), after - (15.4)
Included angle, before
Included angle - before 14.7, after 14.7
any help on translation would be much appreciated what do all these firgures mean only thing i know is camber and its a little of from oem spec but i expected that bc of the s-tech drop but its only off like by (.2-.3) what are all the in increments of?? And are the results ok, bc i still get a lil pull to the left, im guessing the tech didn't adjust the strut bolt, and i paid 160 for their lftm alignment i hope its worth it, lol
Tim
Senior Member
honestly it looks like all they did was set toe. the camber and caster was only modified because you had to loosen them to set toe and during the retighten it got off .1 degree or so
normally thats what we do, when there is no signs of bent parts we just set "toe and go "
normally thats what we do, when there is no signs of bent parts we just set "toe and go "
Senior Member
your techincally within spec. . .
Your Toe is almost dead on which is good. As long as there are no vibrations, none at high speeds, call pulls straight, I'd just keep an eye on tire wear and you should be fine.
Your Toe is almost dead on which is good. As long as there are no vibrations, none at high speeds, call pulls straight, I'd just keep an eye on tire wear and you should be fine.
Alignment is looking good, though they should fix it a little more on that camber. You may be experiencing the effect of a dropped car. I had to get a camber kit for my setup to get my camber within +-1 range. closer to 0, the better.
Senior Member
Alignment isn't bad but I'd definitely get the Camber a bit closer to spec unless you want to see some tire wear on the shoulder in due time.
I'm not a huge fan of the "toe and go" attitude. I'm certified in alignments by Hunter Engineering and would prefer to see everything "dead nuts."
I'm not a huge fan of the "toe and go" attitude. I'm certified in alignments by Hunter Engineering and would prefer to see everything "dead nuts."
Quote:
I'm not a huge fan of the "toe and go" attitude. I'm certified in alignments by Hunter Engineering and would prefer to see everything "dead nuts."
i don't know what firestone policy is i did buy the lifetime alignment would they adjsut camber?Originally Posted by bhmax16
Alignment isn't bad but I'd definitely get the Camber a bit closer to spec unless you want to see some tire wear on the shoulder in due time.I'm not a huge fan of the "toe and go" attitude. I'm certified in alignments by Hunter Engineering and would prefer to see everything "dead nuts."
Quote:
Is the camber adjustable on your car? Its not from the factory. Technically you can make it adjustable on any car but the way that the car is setup from the factory the only thing you get is a toe-n-go. If you dont have a camber kit I prefer this method over camber bolts any day....slot the upper strut-to-knuckle hole on each strut. Just elongate the holes towards the wheels so that when the tech loosens the bolts he can just pull the wheel out to adjust camber and tighten it back up. You have to let the tech know if this is done because we know whats adjustable and whats not on most cars and cant tell if this has been done on the car. Many people will also say that hitting a bump or something can throw the camber back out but from the thousands of cars I've slotted I've never had one comeback because of that. I have had a few comeback with the camber bolts moving though.Originally Posted by achebee4you
i don't know what firestone policy is i did buy the lifetime alignment would they adjsut camber?
there is little adjustment if you loosen the strut bolts but if you are maxed on adjustment you should get a camber kit . im also cert. in steerin/suspension and have 6 other (ase)
Quote:
You'll get lucky if you get a tenth of a degree of adjustment in a Maxima. With the factory bolts its a tight fit into the steering knuckle and an even tighter fit in the holes they have in the struts.Originally Posted by samito
there is little adjustment if you loosen the strut bolts but if you are maxed on adjustment you should get a camber kit . im also cert. in steerin/suspension and have 6 other (ase)