http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3N5rqkKYdg
I would downside the viewer cause otheriwse the internet messes up the DV more than it already is..



..I hope no one can tell I'm compulsive from watching this. (i.e. letting the rpm needle drop to 1g before driving)

or Click here to see Video- @streetfire.net

Btw, can anyone tell me what that inmtermittent wopping noise is that irradiates from my car is?.. Its hella annoying and I'm clueless.

 

What was the point of posting that vid? We have 4th Gens, we know how they look and ride like. LOL

I did enjoy hearing the grunting when you got into the car though.

 

Nice vid, I never wait, just start it up and go! Well, not really (my car has been acting up).

 

I just posted that for fun, glad you liekd the grunting.. you know I drive the damn thing everyday and I still enjoy watching that vid haha. sorry about the probs grnmax but you'll work it out..

 

thats gay. Oh well Ill be back later.

 

I got the same message too......

 

DAMN YOUTUBE!!!!!! I missed two high quality comments..

 

okay guys I'm uploading it to myspace check back in ten minutes..

 

Click here to see Video - @streetfire.net, it is being optimized for best quality at the moment give it a bit. 15 mins or so I imagine..

 

BEEFAY!!!!
yeah the video made me laugh
i like that ha

i always get compliments on how my car sounds even with the stock airbox... baught it with a K&N filter in it (didnt know lol) all i did was take that snorkle looking thing off that seemed like it was restricting air flow deeper tone to it now and your CAI is saweet

 

*Grunt* hhhssssssss from engine nice video dylan! Car sounds mean.

 

Thanks a ton man, everyone and the grunting jeeze cant a guy get older in peace.. guess not haha. yours cars nicer ps.

yeah man the 3.0 sounds real nice with a good intake and some refinements.

 

I don't get one thing, the first time you went WOT, I think you were upshifting from 2nd to 3rd. Then the needle went down to about 1k then shot back up to 3k. Did you downshift back to 2nd? Then the 2nd time you went WOT, you were probably upshifting again from 2nd to 3rd. Then the needle went down to 1k again and then shot up to 4k. Did you downshift again? Why? I recommend against doing that all the time, as your tranny won't last very long. Use the brakes, and then use engine break to help it along. I can see you down-shifting if you really had to make a sudden stop. Perhaps the next time you want to really show us what the PR CAI does, you might want to do it on the highway or freeway. That way you can really video tape the intake grunt at certain RPMs and then when the sound tapers off and becomes less blaring. It's more fun to see the needle go up and up and hear the intake noise along with it as you upshift up to 5th than seeing it go up and then go down again. You know what I mean?

 

yeah I downshift a lot during the day and usually not so severe but I hit about 80 I believe and some van pulled out infront of me. The only reason I dont use the brakes as much as I should is because theyre terrible, they dont stop the car veery well, produce a ton of dust and no abs to top it off. It sucks bad, now my turn, if I had a G35 or a 6th Gen max, different trannies I know; can they withstand constant downshifting, or is it bad to do all the time on every car? Next question would be do you think performance brake pads and cross drilled rotors would be a possible fix? thanks for wtaching

 

Not sure if this is the answer you are looking for but this is how I see it:

Use the brakes for normal stopping. Emergency braking could use engine breaking. So I'd say its ok to downshift. No matter what car you drive and what kind of transmission it has, downshifting/engine braking is very stressful on the transmission and the clutch. It's more expensive to replace a clutch than the brakes. If you must downshift to engine brake, try easing the clutch until it starts to catch, as your speed decreases, progressively let off the clutch. Then release the rest. Don't dump the clutch. This is the recommended practice, even the EVO and STI guys recommend this. Believe it or not, the car stops a lot faster with the brakes instead of engine braking. I tend to use engine braking when I'm trying to stop the car using the brakes and it starts to fade no matter how hard I am pressing down on the brake pedal as it overheats due to very high friction and heat.

My preference would be slotted rotors and kevlar pads. The kevlar pads resist brake fade and tremendous amount of heat.

 

my technique for downshifting is good then as I dont feather the clutch until it catches a bit and I progessively let it out from there, just int he video I had to stop rediculously fast. I will take your advice and go with the kevlar and X'd rotors.. one question though with the kevlar pads, do you have any idea where the cheapest place you know of sells them online? thanks

 

I'd google for the pads. Kevlar pads aren't cheap so don't expect to find a set for the price of a regular metallic/semi-metallic pads. I have Porterfield kevlar pads in my truck. I've heard many in this org use Hawk pads.

 

looks like u sit hella close to the stearing wheel lol. looks like u knee the dash .

 

Yeah I do sit close, my arms are a bit shorter than your average person compared to the rest of the body, so in turn. My leg (right one) does knee the dash.

 

You got those T-rex arms dont ya?

 

 

To comment on the break pad issue, I have the Hawk HPS pads on my max (in addition to Goodrich stainless lines), and they stop really well. You have to get used to the sqeak just when you ease into the brakes. The squeak stops the more you depress the brakes. I had to jam on them one time when some guy stomped the breaks in front of me and I feel sorry for the poor bastard behind me who just about lost it trying to stop as fast as I did.

 

are you runnin ABS or non just out of curiosity.. Cause I'm starting to think its not neccesarily my pads or rotors, rather the non-ABS and all seasons.. just the fact that they lock up sp easily. I dunno thansk a bunch though.

 

Yeah you need to work on rev matching, haha. If I had a camcorder I'd post up a little double clutching vid, I'm thinking of buying/returning a camcorder and making one just for kicks when I get back home.

P.S. how'd you mount the camcorder? Did you just wedge it in between the seatback and headrest?

 

In my opinion the brake setup we have on our non-ABS Maximas is garbage. I have new pads and rotors so I know that its not wear and tear. These things are made for luxury type stopping. They are smooth as butter when it comes to braking they overheat like crazy when you brake hard. When I first got the car I was toying around a bit, just speeding up and breaking for some fun. I wasnt coming to a screeching halt just applying more pressure than you would on normal breaking. Lets just say that after doing this three times I almost had a heartattack as my left foot was on the floor and the car was rolling with no intention on stopping. Thank god I was coming to a red light with no cars ahead and on an incline. I learned a quick lesson in Maxima braking that day. Its pretty sad considering my 97' Civic EX had much better breaking distance and far less brake fade. The 350z on the other hand has some crazy brakes. I could barely drive that thing because the brake pads were so sensitive. Just my rant ya know....

According to his bio he is only 18 so he has plenty of time to learn how to drive properly (rev match). I taught myself how to drive stick and although its easy to learn the basics perfecting your technique will take some time. With new drivers I find that they tend to shift into neutral a lot more than necessary. The only time you want to be in neutral is when you are at a stop. If you are slowing down for a red light you can keep it in 3d as long as you dont start accelerating at low rpms and putting unneccessary strain on your tranny. If you need to speed up just throw it into second and away you go.

 

Damn so the brakes just suck period.. oh well. Anyways fellas I know how to do rev matching its just when I want to slow down as fast as I needed to which was about from 80 down to 40 in well a short distance i just slipped the clutch a bit and it slowed down real quick. But agreed downshifting to 2and hitting 4g's is not too good. But yeah I would rarely downshift if it wasn't to stop quickly or to pass so rev matching is something I only do when I'm downshifting to speed up IMO. But you're right of course my technique could use some work but I bet I'm one of few who actually downshift when slowing down and such, none of my friends with the 300zx's, 240's, mazda 6's or Evo's do it.. and a lot of these guys are heavily experienced.. anyways besides the point. I like the advice and atmosphere in here so if anyone has anything else to add I'd appreciate it, criticism is always welcome.

 

Good to see you are downshifting, if you are going to be lazy why even bother to get a manual. I hate it when people tell me that I drive stick because I want to impress chicks. I just stare at them and laugh. I mean thats just sad, I drive stick because driving stick is how I like to drive. Automatics are way too boring and unengaging for my driving tastes. No chick is worth having to deal with a manual tranny if its something you dont enjoy doing. Dont buy a 5spd to save money, dont buy it to impress people, buy it because its a way of life and you cant live without it. Simple as that folks....

2cents

 

agree totally, but if by some chance a girl is impressed with it, well then thats right on

 

 

Apparition:

To answer your question, I don't have ABS, and my max brakes like a champ.

 

Umm. An intaked Max always sounds nice....

 

Until you sit in a car with good brakes...

The brakes are mushy and fade easily, I dont see how you consider that "champ" status. Unless ofcourse you have aftermarket parts...

 

Also cross-drilled rotors will not brake any better than blank rotors, there is less area on the rotor face and you will never really experience a case where the holes will be used, especially in street driving. They will crack, even sometimes if you get the good ones, and also wear your pads down significantly faster.

 

I've driven/had a maxima with ABS and without. I will say ABS sucks. It has hurt me more than it has helped me. I also used to use Porterfield R4-S pads on the non-abs and they worked great. Wear out kind of fast and are pricey and dust alot but if you want to stop fast they work good for that.

 

I noticed a bigger difference in braking just by replacing the old fluid with new than by changing rotors.

 

true.. but MINE SOUNDS BETTER! j/p yeah the VQ is my baby, esp. when I get the 3.5 in a few months.. screw it I'll just downshift like I have been, damn maxima breaks. Or I'll just do 300zx conversion.

 

Sounds the same as my homemade intake sounded.
http://homepage.mac.com/phatmax95/ma...Theater60.html


Maybe I am used to driving old cars now but the Maxima I had braked fine. I can't imagine needing to stop any faster than the Porterfield pads did.

Also, no one answered your question about the "inmtermittent wopping noise is that irradiates from my car". From that description, it sounds as if your having the differential bearing failure that seems to be common. I did.

 

thanks, its an annoying noise I'll look into that.

 

when u say u took that snorkel looking thing off ... how did u support the filter in the box??? .... please PM me ... thank you

 

"The car that chunged it ull"???