brake question
#1
brake question
ok well i used the tool to put the back brakes on. but now my ebrake doesnt work for crap. i did it just liek it says to in the haynes manual. also another thing with my front caliper i noticed that it is missing one of those anit rattle springs, and it makes a really horible noise sort of a clunking and a creaking. it doesnt really squeel. the pads are new and the rotors are fine. i did notice that midas lost one of those springs i called them and they said i must have lost it because they had put it on. that was about 8 months ago. i havent taken the calipers apart since. well my main problem is that the ebrake doesnt work so if u have any ideas feel free to comment.
#2
On the front, Anti Rattle spring, are you talking about the copper coated spring that the pads slide in? If so, that kind of needs to be there. Its not so much an anti rattle spring as it is a smooth surface for the shoes to slide in. Having the pad sit in the cast iron will just be goofy. I cant beleive they put it back together like that. They probably broke it taking it out. They are included with the front brake hardware kit from Nissan.
As far as the back goes. I dont have that much experience with fixing the caliper but it seems to me that if the cable is pulling the lever on the caliper and the lever is moving the full 1/4 turn and the brake piston is not coming out then I would say you need to replace the caliper. The rear caliper rebuild kit is like 50 bucks and doesnt include anything like a piston or Ebrake return spring. Might as well just get a rebuilt unit. Its all just O Rings, seals, grease and really awfull instructions.
If the piston is moving then the other thing it might be is a coroded tourque member. Corosion either in the pad track or the guide pins. Make sure the outer and inner pads are both free to slide in the track and that the caliper can easily compress the guide pins. The rears can get so jammed and rusted that only the inner pad is actually doing any braking.
As far as the back goes. I dont have that much experience with fixing the caliper but it seems to me that if the cable is pulling the lever on the caliper and the lever is moving the full 1/4 turn and the brake piston is not coming out then I would say you need to replace the caliper. The rear caliper rebuild kit is like 50 bucks and doesnt include anything like a piston or Ebrake return spring. Might as well just get a rebuilt unit. Its all just O Rings, seals, grease and really awfull instructions.
If the piston is moving then the other thing it might be is a coroded tourque member. Corosion either in the pad track or the guide pins. Make sure the outer and inner pads are both free to slide in the track and that the caliper can easily compress the guide pins. The rears can get so jammed and rusted that only the inner pad is actually doing any braking.
#4
the cables are fine that was the first thing i checked. and about the rear brake being out. i dont think it is because the car stops just fine. its just the ebrake is loose. im going to jack the car up pull the ebrake and see if it is equaly weak on both sides. if it is ill just tighten the cable. and the anti rattle spring. thats what it is called is an anti rattle spring. its on the top of the caliper basicaly. it goes over both pads its in a v shape its really skinny like the thickness of a paper clip. and there are 2 on each front caliper.
#5
The e-brake only operates on the rear brakes, so the anti-rattle springs don't matter. The cables attach near the rear brakes, make sure they're attached to the spring loaded lever thing, and the bracket before the lever. If that is fine then maybe check the cable at the handbrake lever?
Probably should reattach the anti-rattle springs though. Pretty easy to do.
Probably should reattach the anti-rattle springs though. Pretty easy to do.
#6
i know that its easy to do and if u read what i said it was 2 difffernt questions. i know there are only rattle springs in the front i just re did my whole brake system . the creaking has been going on for a long time about 4 months. they are attached to the brakes i made sure of that when i put the brakes back together. i havent had a chance to check near the lever yet. i need to buy another anti rattle spring so i can put it in. that sound is driving me insane it sounds so bad and is getting worse.
#9
do you guys usaly have to bleed your brakes 2 times around? and i know to start at the rear right wheel but where are u supost to go from there i did the rear 2 then the front 2 but my brakes still seem to have air in them .
#10
The hardware kit for the back includes new updated clips :-) And some new shims, thats it. I took the tourque arm off and cleaned it up real good. Regreased it and put new seals on the pins. Then I bolted it on and to my amazement, I couldnt fit the shoes in. I had to file the groove to get enough rust out of the tourque member to fit the shoes in. Make sure the shoes float.
Also, you really have to reef on that parking brake lever with new shoes and rotors. They are slippery when new.
I think the way to bleed the master cylinder is to take a turkey baster and remove as much fluid as you can. Then pump the balance out through the driver front bleeder screw. Actually, If you take the bleeder screw out of that wheel, the reservoir will empty itself in short order.
Also, you really have to reef on that parking brake lever with new shoes and rotors. They are slippery when new.
I think the way to bleed the master cylinder is to take a turkey baster and remove as much fluid as you can. Then pump the balance out through the driver front bleeder screw. Actually, If you take the bleeder screw out of that wheel, the reservoir will empty itself in short order.
#11
I had a similar problem with the "clunking sound" when I replaced all four rotors, pads, and the back two calipers back in November 2004. It was really odd, because it did not clunk for several months. The sound was a clunk, but also a rubbing sound that if I hit the brakes just right (not too hard and not too lightly) I could feel a small vibration. It was definitely coming from the rear. I had a brake shop check it out, and they said everything was fine. I know I did a thorough job when I replaced the brakes, and I even had an experienced mechanic that checked behind me during the installation. I purchased the rotors and pads from NAPA, they were the "premium brand" and I both calipers were re-manufactured Nissan calipers. I guess I just won't buy NAPA parts anymore. Can anyone recommend a good place to buy brake products for Maxima's? And has anyone ever had a vibration from their brakes?
#12
fixed the parking brake
and i just think i need to bleed the system again its way better now but i still think i should bleed it again for safe mesures. and ill look into what u were saying chas thanks for the help.
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