I've never done this maintenance before, and will probably just rely on my Haynes Manual. Anyone have suggestions on how to do it or how to make the job easier?

 

I've done Hondas before. It's like bigger tools and more grunt. I'm just getting ready to do the front end on my 95. Seeing as that steering suspension bit gets the most thrashing (the way I drive) and it's all done 150K miles; my strategy is to just replace *everything* with new in the hope that I don't have to go there again in a year or two. (I have D/S wheel bearing whine to fix.)

I'd be happy to share my parts list as I work it up - lots of little rubber bushings. Meanwhile I'll be trolling the history here as I remember some good stuff from a few months ago.

l8r

 

Thanks, all I have lined up is the control arms, and struts/shocks. Let me know what you get together for parts list.

 

do the end links also while you're at it. I was wondering if anyone has been able to install polyeurathane bushings on the maxima's control arms or where to get some. Sorry for stealing the thread a little. It kinda goes hand in hand i guess

 

^Steal all you want, I need all the input where I can get it. I probably won't do the bushings just because I want to get this done on the cheap.

Just bought the control arms on skeeBay.
Do I need to get the ball joints too, or is that part of the control arm?

 

Control arms are a breeze. Make sure you have a breaker bar. Haynes has a good walkthrough for it.

 

Are there any boots I should get?

 

you should definetely change sway bar end links also while you're at it, you will need moog part # k9824..you can order these through www.rockauto.com

 

Pickle fork and hammer (not rubber mallet) for removing the ball joint. I'm pretty sure this method will wreck the ball joint but I was replacing mine when I did it. That was the most difficult part for me.

 

I replaced both of my lower control arm, like 2 weeks ago. It was a pain to break loose the bolts. also the nut that holds the hub to the arm should be replaced. Both of mine were rusted and it stripped, so I had to use a plumbers wrench to take them off. If you have any question, i can help you to the point of which I know, So PM me for question. Good luck and have fun. Also hope you have air tools.

 

nik get's all the credit here, he's the man!

http://maxima.cardomain.com/ride/348507/15

I recall Cattman had the ES bushings and so did Matt Blehm (Matt93Se)

 

Anyone know the size and thread of the bolts that come out? I want to replace them, and buy them before I start the work next weekend. THanks!

 

Make sure you have the 27mm open end wrench, or a 1 1/16 standard wrench will work also for the LCA link pin. 22 mm for the blots that hold the LCA to the car. If you need bolts, you better order them from the Nissan dealer tommorrow, b/c they will take time to recieve them at Nissan.

Size and thread I dunno, those are bolts that I would buy from the dealer and they already know the size.

 

Nick's right up is a good one. Follow it as well as have you haynes and even the FSM ready but you should need all of that.

http://maxima.cardomain.com/ride/348507/15

Its not a tough job by any means.

 

Thats one nice write up, thanks!

 

I just did mine yesterday. It took a lot more time than I thought. If not for the rusted cotter pins and frozen link pin, the whole job might have taken about 4 hours....If I knew then what I know now (I'm pretty cautious the first time around), it might only have taken 2 or 3 hours. I followed the write-up and had a few additional tips:

- It's a little tricky trying to get the ball joint nut off when it's flopping around after having removed the tie rod end, axle, and strut bolts. I found it easier to place the tie rod end and one strut bolt back in place with the axle out of the way. This stabilized the wheel assembly enough for me to break the ball joint nut loose.

- If you're planning to reuse the link pins, be prepared to take them to your nearest muffler shop to torch the bushings off. I had one that broke loose using a good vise and crow bar (the write-up shows a screw driver)....the other had to be torched off.

- Be careful to support the wheel assembly when everything has been disconnected....You don't want it hanging by the brake line.

- Be careful not to get any junk in the wheel bearings after removing the axle.

- Be prepared to spend more time than you think removing old rusted cotter pins. I couldn't get a pair of pliers on the loop end of the cotter pins because it was buried in the castle nut grooves. Naturally, the other side wasn't easily accessed to tap from the other side. I used a little PB Blaster too.

Good Luck.