My 1996 gxe stalled mostly when cold, but did stall sometimes at operating temp. The strange part about my problem, it would happen only a few times a year. When I did start having problems though, it hung around for a few days and then no more problems.

The fix:

My mechanic searched the problem for a couple of day a came up with a device in the harness used for filtering alternator noise out of the stero system. He found the information in a Nissan technical bulliten, but did not believe this could be the problem, he located the part on the harness and found it appeared to have been very hot at one point,almost melted. Since it was a cheap part he replaced it, no more starting problems for over a year now.

The location is very easy to access, it is almost dirrectly over the coolant temperature sensor in the harness.

Hopefully some can find the name of this part from my description, I cant get in touch with the mechanic that found the problem to ask.

Good luck

 

I have had the same problems last year for about 6 months ('96 GLE, 142K)
symptoms 1 thru 5, except I don't live in Houston. I did have a O2 code and KS code. I had the car serviced, had 3, 6, 7, and 8 done, and additionally had all O2 sensors, KS, and ECTS replaced. It made no difference. I spent a couple of 100s on parts and also on the mechanic. He couldn't find anything, but suggested a loose wire somewhere. Then someone on the forum put me on the MAFS track. I ordered a used one on E-bay. For some reason I first took off the connector, checked it for dirt and loose parts (all seemed fine) and put it back on. That was it, I never replaced the MAFS and I haven't had another stall since September 2008!

 

Update: I got an egr-bpt valve and a MAF sensor. About 150 miles ago I replace the egr-bpt valve. This did nothing and the car kept stalling. So I then replaced the MAF sensor. It's been 150 miles and the car has not stalled once whereas before the car could barely go 5 miles without stalling. So the stalling issue has been fixed!

Unfortunatly the egr code 0302 remains. It went about 100 miles with no code and then the code was tripped randomly. I'm thinking of unplugging the egr sensor and just be done with it.

 

I hate to hijack the thread, but after cleaning my egr tube that attaches to the back of the motor, my car will not run well at all. When i start it, it idles fine, when I give it any gas, it stumbles and falls on its face, then cuts off. I have tested and reset the TPS, I have cleaned and tested the AICV, I actually replaced the MAFafter I got a little upset and hit it with the BFH. What am I missing, what other sensors, valves should I check next?

 

See my post and quote # 82. The CEL has been on all this time, and I'm not having it read until she is due for the emissions and safety check this winter. I suspect it will be triggered again with some bogus problem as soon as I have it reset. All those sensors I had replaced made no difference in the stalling problem (see quote in #82). As far as I'm concerned it may burn a hole in the dash, and I even like to look at it as a reminder of how lucky I was to find the MAF solution here.
Thank you everyone for being so active on the forum and helping folks like me to keep their Maximas running. I'm not knowledgeable about cars at all, but I was smart enough to buy a service manual when I bought the car new in Alabama, before moving to The Netherlands in 1996. I have had few and very far between repairs, but this stalling problem drove me to dispair last summer. With a little help from the service manual for terminology etc., I learned a lot from you guys here at the forum.

I hope to keep her running for a long time to come. My husband and I drove her through the Austrian and Italian Alps this summer, GREAT car, still going strong!


Very happy in Holland!

 

slosnake; I had the same problem, it was a vacuum hose I knocked loose while cleaning the EGR. Don't remember exactly which one. Hope this helps.

 

I want to share my story in hopes it helps someone else...

I bought a 95 Max with 102K miles and an occasional stalling problem. The stalling would happen about any running temperature and would act like too much fuel (stumbling, dark smoke). I could eventually clear it out by reving the engine some. After much research on this website, here's what happened....

1.IACV – cleaned, no noticable help
2.Throttle body – cleaned, dirty inboard of butterfly valve
3.MAF – cleaned with MAF cleaner, did not look dirty
4.Spark plugs – installed new NGK’s
5.Fuel filter – new, previous did not appear old
6.Air filter – clean, no need to replace

After doing items 2-6, idle increased from about 800 to about 1400. Had to adjust to 700 (had to screw adjuster in numerous turns). I got excited, but then it still stalled occasionally.

7.Ground connections at front of intake are tight and clean
8.ECTS – monitored with DVM (digial volt meter, long wire to bring in the cabin while driving), smooth voltage change from 3.5V to 1.0V, even during stalling spell. Coolant level is appears to be full.
9.Started 6/15, idled okay, but ran funky (sluggish?) while revving around 1500. Some smoke. Turned off and unplugged MAF. No difference, but stalled when put in D. Reconnected MAF, ran fine in D. Repeated with same results. (this threw me for a loop as far as the MAF).
a.Bad MAF sensor connection? NO
b.Check again. Check ground and power circuits. All seemed good.

10.Removed Throttle body for better cleaning. Noticed oil in intake manifold.
11.Replaced PVC valve.
12. The above stuff helped in many small ways, but it still stalled occasionally. Hooked up DVM to MAF sensor and monitored in vehicle. Did get slightly erratic reading during stalling spells. Decided to replace MAF.
13.Nissan part $550. Rebuilt from local auto parts store $220. Place on Ebay that sells new (clones) with great reviews $100.

14.Tried one from Ebay. Quick delivery. Terrible cold start, BUT never stalled again. Ordered replacement due to poor cold start, better starting, but different cut-out/stall problem. Sent both back.
15.Ordered rebuilt from local auto parts for $220. BINGO! No more problems.

Along the way, I replaced the Knock sensor due to a code. Read about a few ways, but tried a "swivel socket" and a long extension. I was able to get the bolt loose to remove KS w/o pulling the intake manifold or loosing much skin on my hands. Let me know if you need a picture or more info.

 

Just a thought....a process of elimination...

I realize this has been pretty much about pulling codes, but I thought I'd add a much earlier experience that might affect some.

It was one of the strangest problems I've ever had with any vehicle I've owned. Since I cannot remember all the particulars I'll just cut to the chase. My problem ultimately had to do with the ignition switch. Over time, the copper contacts in the switch simply wore down. Apparently, the tolerances between making contact or not were being affected by simply running the Air Conditioner. If the interior of the car was warm, no issue turning it over and starting. If I'd stop the car after running the AC and then attempted to start...nada. As the interior of the car would warm back up...Vroom.

This was one of those...please something break so I can test and locate. It never did, but I was able through process of elimination and observation able to deduce the likely culprit.

Replacing the part with the ignition switch contacts solved the problem.

This had to do with actually being able to start the car. However, I began to wonder if a worn ignition switch like mine could also be affecting some vehicles in other ways. If the "run" contact was worn more than the "start" contact what could happen?? What could happen if the AC was running, cooling your interior, and in turn affecting the "run" contacts on some of your vehicles??

Can you imagine that?? My vehicles ability to start was being affected by a few degrees of cooling which was shrinking back the copper contacts in the switch...imagine the tolerances there...

The ignition switches definitely have a limited life expectancy. Mine went out at about 125K. The copper contacts in these are constantly being worn every time the switch is used. And erratic...oh yeah!! 'Twas frustrating to say the least.

So, might there be a connection with what you're experiencing, those erratic, doesn't make any sense whatsoever things happening?? Yet, there appears to be some crazy pattern... Just something else to consider...

 

I would think knock sensor is your problem.

 

I am having similar issues with my 1997 Maxima 167k miles. The motor runs like a clock 90% of the time. But VERY randomly, the car begins to run rough, as if it is fuel starved. It can happen at any time. Just at start up, it may idle rough and die. But it also may not. When driving on the highway under very light throttle the motor may begin to suddenly sputter as if it is not getting enough fuel. A tap on the gas keeps the engine from stalling. It may continue for up to a minute, or it may totally go away 5 seconds later and the car will run smooth as silk again. I cannot figure out what is causing the condition. It can happen at any time, and yet corrects itself eventually within 5 seconds to a minute. I do not own a code reader, so Im not able to see if any codes are thrown. I have tried a couple doses of fuel system cleaner but did nothing. I have no idea what to try, but I am looking for suggestions. After reading here I may just try to get a rebuilt MAF and see if that does it. Thanks for any input.

 

Its honestly an easy fix but sucks because of the core charge most places have for that. You get it back but its a lot up front. but yeah simple tools and maybe 20 minutes tops. It was my very first DIY fix. Easy easy access on the VQ30de though

 

drg, there is nothing rebuildable on the MAF, you can try cleaning the wire with MAF/sensor cleaner (I think CRC makes such an aersol type product) and a Q-tip, very carefully, very carefully. Otherwise as Phro stated you just have to buy a new or remaned unit. Its about a 20 minute job. Pay close attention to the the MAF wires at the harness connections to the MAF, they have been known to suspect themselves creating similar driveability issues. While you are there check your ECU as well for other codes if you haven't already. When my MAF finally started to fail it never threw a code. You had to use a continious reading device to catch it failing when it was.

 

this could be your problem... even though i'm running 00vi without iacv i remember that the car idled fairly low before (like 550-600) before swap and even now when i tap the brakes when it idles (now at around 850rpm) it still dims the dashlights a bit. and if rpms drop (because i got no iacv connected), reducing elecrical load helps it get back up to 850.

a lot of cars can have trouble idling but that can be a myriad of things... can you give a more detailed description of what happens and how the engine behaves/sounds during the problematic state? you also have to mention what you replaced during your complete tune up. do you run 91 oct gas? does it miss when you try to catch your idle or does that make the rpms drop more.

could be faulty maf, crap battery, battery connection or anything related to charging system, maybe its the fuel pump, fuel filter... ugh, its hard giving advice on a car i can't hear and see running. the less you detail you give the more "well it could be this" you're gonna get lol

 

I totally understand where you are coming from. I am a long time auto tinkerer. I fall short of calling myself a mechanic because Ive had no formal training but I have done my share of work including rebuilding a motor. I have considered all of your suggestions: MAF, Fuel pump, fuel filter, worn points, intermitent vaccuum leak, electrical issue (short when something turns on messing with the fuel pump?), air intake issue etc. And I also totally understand how hard it is to diagnose a car overn internet forum Kinda like my mom caling me and asking me how to fix her computer over the phone lol

Obviously it is not smart to start replacing stuff randomly, as it can get costly unless your first guess is correct, which is never the case....as was with my 2001 Altima...I did plugs, distributor, wires, maf, hose replacements, fuel filter....turned out to be a bad intake manifold gasket.

Anyways, I digress. To try and describe my current issue:
1) It is very intermittant. Can happen at start up (will start, but chug...choke...try to catch...chug...die) by the 3rd or 4th try, its starts up and purrs like a kitten. Also happens while driving at any time....at a stop light, in traffic on the street or on the highway etc. On the highway, im coasting at 65 smoothly, then all of a sudden, the car will slow down even though I have not let up on the throttle. Feels like driving a manual and taping your foot lightly on and off the gas....chug chug go, not go, go, not go...it may continue this way for a minute or 2 or may go away in a few seconds. As long as I keep giving it more than 10% throttle, it will run roughly but then it can resolve in a few seconds and its like everything is fine again and contiues to run well for a while.
2) It always resolves itself. Whether the sputtering lasts a few seconds or a minute, as long as I dont let it die, it will eventually stop sputtering and just like that, back to purring like a kitten.
3) It does seem to happen more frequently, and last longer when the car is hot. When the car is cold, as mentioned above, it may sputter a bit but usually catches quickly and usually runs pretty smoothly until the car reaches temp. Then I seem to get more frequent and longer lasting episodes.
4) On a few, but not every occasion, I can smell either raw gas, or strange exhaust smell. Again, not every time it happens, but maybe 30% of the time there seems to be a smell associated with the issue, maybe im crazy

The thing that drives me nuts is that it fixes itself! I wish to gawd something would break so I can find out what it is! I have been trying to get my buddys obd reader but our schedules have not matched up this week yet. As soon as I am able to get some codes I will post here.

@ Promethius and M in KC
Thanks for the suggestions. I have actually been through the whole maf thing with my Altima, my Pontiac G8 GT and my "former" saab 900. The maf actually never proved to be an issue in any of those 3 cases, but none-the-less, I learned how to handle them properly. The intermittent issue is what makes me think it is not the maf....but again, im not really a mechanic so who knows.

 

Actually, when my MAF started to go it was much like this - very intermittent, everything from occasional starting problems to occasionally cutting out at cruising speed, then being OK. I did eventually get a code (P0100 I think); new MAF fixed it up just fine. Good luck.

 

I had the same problem but it is def your IACV. When you take your foot off the gas and begin to break the IACV takes over. THe IACV valve controls your idle when the TB butterfly plate is close. I cleaned mine really well and the problem is gone. I can slam on the brakes even cold and the idle still stays the same. hope this helps

 

I'm thinking MAF, do you stall when going over bumps? Mine used to stall randomly over bumps.

 

I had this problem for awhile. I replaced the MAF, and gutted and cleaned the throttle body and its components and haven't had the problem since. Hope this helps

 

I'll go ahead and join as a person with the same issue and no definite conclusion. Here's what i've got:
--Low idle-something like 900-1000 rpms when in park, after warmed up it's around 600 when stopped in drive and 7-900 when in neutral
--RPMs tend to flutter when stopped in drive, helps to put car in neutral
--Occasionally will die altogether and is difficult to start after this--rpms will flutter as i mentioned, then completely drop. Note that every time this has happened i have had my headlights on and stereo on loud plus either heater/AC
--This has happened around once every month for the last 6 months or so
--Sometimes feels "airy" when accelerating--i liken it to drinking out of a straw with not enough liquid there--but there is plenty of gas.
--Running some techron through seems to help that issue.
Previous issues:
--I know my suspension is basically shot and motor mounts are going bad. Not sure if that could have any effect
--CEL codes for Knock sensor and automatic transmission module or something like that, sorry-don't remember exact name. Y'all probably know what i'm talking about though.
--Small coolant leak, but i always make sure to keep it full.
--New starter
--Some small cracking at where the resonator box joins the MAF--tried my best to seal it up but am not sure how well that worked.

As far as i can tell all hoses and other connections are good. Everything else in the car works great. Some things i have heard suggested are fuel injectors, MAF, IACV, EGR, bad grounds, and of course knock sensor and that transmission controller. Would it be a good idea to do the MAF/IACV/EGR cleaning found in the stickies? I don't really have much money to throw around so i can't really afford to just keep trying stuff out...and honestly i am way less educated than most people here so please be patient with me if something i've said was totally stupid . Thank you all

edit--also, been told ignition switch may be going bad. just some more info for you.

 

My friend had the same problem with his. He replaced the ECU and the problem went away.

 

If you're still having some problems, after a few months since your post, I have a couple of suggestions. Based on your post: Although the Knock Sensor will not throw a cell, if you get the code when you run the OBD you would want to check the connections first. On mine you could actually see where the sensor was cracked. If the knock sensor is bad it will affect your acceleration...extremely noticeable if you are on a freeway access ramp with a slight upward grade. Your description of a using a straw without sufficient liquid fits nicely.

If you have a coolant leak it can affect your idle. Attached to the air intake portion of your Maxima is a thermally controlled piston that controls your cold idle. If the coolant is not coming into full contact with this piston it does not extend properly and keeps the engine partially choked. This piston is not connected electronically to be able to tell if it is working properly, but if it is not, it will affect other electronics attempting to control your idle with the vehicle not in motion, and when decelerating, say from freeway speeds. You can watch this piston and the cam it controls to see if it is moving properly and resting where it should when the vehicle has reached normal operating temperatures.

 

My car is normally driven on short 2 mile or less round-trips errands, and I would think it never really gets to full operating temp in that short time span. However, the last couple weeks, I've been playing with the stereo and then sitting in the car testing things after installing it, and idling the car with the AC on.

I've found that the car stalled a few times when I went for a drive after I've been sitting in it for a while idling, and I want to resolve this.

After cleaning some grounds and spraying my OEM MAF, then putting it back into the car last weekend, I thought I had solved the problem, however I stalled a couple of times today and I think the problem lies elsewhere. One of the common themes of the stalling episodes was running the AC, so I thought maybe water is dripping onto a ground somewhere, causing a problem, I also though maybe the MAF connection is too damp/wet because of the humidity so I bought some di-electric grease (haven't put it on yet). After searching and reviewing some things tonight, I'm still not sure I know what will resolve the problem.

In the coming weeks, I'm planning on removing the MAF, TB, IACV, and EGR guide tube and cleaning, replacing gaskets, etc., hoping to get the car running perfectly before a long drive to Maine.

I had been planning on cleaning all of these for a while but the stalling episodes right before a family trip have given me pause and made me wonder whether renting a car would be a better option.

My question has to do with the possibility of a coolant leak or other leak causing my erratic stalling the last couple weeks. I've noticed on the top of the radiator that there is some dampness/fluid that I haven't noticed before but the level is fine. I've also noticed on the passenger side that there is a very small amount of fluid that seems to seep out of the power steering lines. This has been going on for some time and I have been cleaning that area every now and then to keep it clean and dry.

The erratic nature of the stalling is the real issue in that I don't want to start replacing parts without having a better target to aim at. I don't want to be on a trip with my family and have the damn MAF act up out of nowhere. The MAF that was in the car when the stalling started up this round, was an after market ebay one that is 2 years old, while I saved the OEM one and recently put it back in after cleaning it, only to find the sporadic stalling persists...

How can I troubleshoot the possibility that the coolant line to the throttle body is not triggering the proper function it should be? Could a loss in pressure in my coolant lines account for this piston described above not functioning properly? If the coolant level appears fine, are there any other ways to tell if the coolant is being properly cycled through the system?

Thanks for any replies!

 

It would not be about pressure in the lines. It is about a proper coolant level. Or, as with mine, the piston was bad and had to be replaced. I did so, and it is once again malfuctioning. My water pump is leaking and messing with the coolant levels. I've not had the time to replace the pump.

If you happened to see my post earlier in the thread...the fact that when the interior cools when you run the A/C and you are experiencing problems...ignition/run contacts could be on the table.

Also, the heat sensor is critical in overall performace. If you check the service manual, you will see that troubleshooting this sensor is not easy. I know from personal experience with this sensor malfunctioning all sorts of engine performance issues result. The engine control system constantly monitors the resistance of this sensor from start to operating temp and adjusts accordingly.

Does your vehicle idle normally? Does it restart immediately after dying?

 

Thanks for your detailed reply and explanation. The bit you posted regarding the contacts on the ignition is an interesting possibility.

The car's idle when the MAF isn't causing problems is pretty stable at around 650 rpm, and yes, it always starts right back up after it stalls. I had the starter replaced once on this car, but that was years ago. However, I've never cleaned the IACV before and that's on my list when I get the new gaskets in the mail.

I was thinking further about a couple of commonalities between when the original MAF started going bad, and the ebay knock off MAF that malfunctioned last weekend, and lengthy idling periods occurred around the time that both started acting up. In the first case, I remember starting the car and letting it idle with the heat on, to warm it up before getting in. The car then had spasdic idling during the drive home and that lead me to getting a new MAF after it degenerated into consistent stalling over the next couple weeks. The second MAF seems to have gone bad after idling in the driveway after installing the stereo and testing things. But, that same week, we were stuck in a half hour traffic jam and idling on the highway, so I'm wondering whether there is a common theme in that something with those lengthy idling periods messed up both the original MAF and the ebay MAF.

Could the ground for the MAF have gotten heated up and somehow no longer making contact wherever it is grounded? How would I reground the MAF? Maybe the air temperature sensor inside the airbox is the problem? That's never been replaced on this car.

Lastly, the heat sensor that you mentioned, where is that and how is it grounded? Maybe that's the problem?

The reason I don't just take this to my mechanic is that for the stalling that occurred during the first go-around, he couldn't get it to stall and I ended up fixing it myself with the new MAF.

Ultimately, I don't want to buy a third MAF only to have it go bad if there is another root cause to the stalling.

 

The problem with most service folk, is that they will routinely replace a sensor if it throws a code without bench testing the sensor or wiring. In the Maxima shop manuals there are detailed procedures for bench testing most sensors. A code means that there are issues in the "circuit" which may or may not be the actual sensor. As you noted, it could be a ground or bad connection in the harness.

There are two grounding screws that you might want to have a look at. the have to do with the Engine Control System. I don't have the link handy now, but if you Google or search in Maxima.org it should show up. They are easily attended to and are right atop the engine, slightly left of center as you stare at the motor and right behind the main plastic logo stuff covering the front plugs.

If I remember correctly, the heat sensor/coolant sensor is not that expensive and easily replaced. The gauge sensor for coolant, if I remember correctly, is a different sensor altogether. The coolant sensor is difficult to bench test.

I would check all harness connectors for corrosion/oxidation 'cause our Maximas are aging...

I'll take a closer look at your post when I get back home later today and see if I can add anything else.

 

Thank you again for your ideas. I think I'm onto another possible cause - the original y-pipe and cat are still in this car and when I looked at the air filter the other day, I noticed some little sand-like particles/pebbles. From reading a thread on the 6th gen forum, someone said if the cats are breaking up and getting sucked back into your intake, it can burn the MAF.

Does the following sound like a high-probability reason for the MAF going haywire - extended idling caused heat build up, and internal parts of the aging cats slowly disintegrated and burned up, taking the MAF with it?

I know it's time to get these parts of my exhaust redone (muffler was done a couple years ago) but now I have more urgency than I thought.

 

check your tps also. make sure the voltage is correct on it. It may just need to be replaced.

 

I've been living with this problem for many months now.
My life almost ended again today because of another stall. I cannot believe the Maxima engineers built a car that revolves around all these failing sensors, that the car becomes a deathtrap when the MAF goes out.

And since it does, they ought to just put an OBD2 code readout right in the dashboard, because scanners in my area cost $200+. Yet the MAF doesn't even trigger a code so WTF?

Unfortunately in my area they don't sell MAFs on every street corner nor can I order online (I'm outside the U.S.)

It's taken me much money and many hours of research to figure out this problem. And yet, I am still stuck with it. Every day I curse this car and it chooses to stall at the worst possible times. Amazing the problem apparently never happened the four times I took it to mechanics.

I will never buy another Maxima and perhaps another Nissan because of this. This car is extremely poorly designed. I felt compelled to join this forum to warn others.

 

Sorry for your bad experience.
Sounds like you own the wrong car for your area, not the wrong car.

 

First off, your lack of understanding with these cars is not nissans fault. Also your lack of maintenance to keep your car running is also not nissans fault. If you did in fact put in the amount of "hours of research" you would have probably stumbled upon this to start with http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-dummies.html

You mentioned "all these failing sensors" do have any codes for what's failing? If not how are we supposed to help someone that posts all this hate on our cars just because your lack of understanding. if you are having the issue with you "almost loosing your life" because your car keeps stalling while your on the road simply don't drive it until you fix the problem. That is also not nissans fault you keep driving a car in traffic that you can't keep running. Anything else that is nissans fault while your at it? posting what you did is not going to help your problems as I know I am probably not the only one frustrated with reading your ridiculous post. Good luck getting anybodys help if you just joined the forum to hate on these cars because you don't know how to maintain it.

 

I just warned another user yesterday of the potential dangers of neglecting engine maitenance. I know first hand what stalling on a busy road feels like, it was the worst and best experience. Because 3 years ago I decided to do my own research and because of that I am now completely "tearing" into my engine to clean and repair things I had never dreamt I'd be doing.

It's likely not a defective MAF, just a dirty one. Follow the link posted above and turn your frustration into a learning experience, goodluck.

 

There was another guy on here who kept saying the maxima was extremely poorly designed... his name was Aviation005 aka planecrash...

perhaps you two should be friends.


*PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT* DON'T FEED THE TROLLS. THAT IS ALL.

 

I have the same random stalling issue. Usually waiting a stop light in neutral, will start up after about 30 seconds of cranking, yes I feel bad for my starter, but also for the line of cars behind me. Another reason to like roundabouts!! Anyway it appears Nissan has an issue with this by looking at all the posts. I am going to start with the temp sensor. It will take a while to know if it fixed it possibly because it was being so good, had not happened in a few weeks. Will update as necessary

 

Following up on my post, yes that's exactly what I ended up doing, leaving it in the garage for weeks because it was just too dang frustrating and dangerous to drive. I had a MAF ordered, and I had to take a trip to go pick it up.

The good news is my Maxima now works! It was the MAF. I had gone to 4 different mechanics and none of them had figured it out. The problem was, most of the time my MAF worked. Disconnected, it was no different.

What I have a problem with is the dependency of this car on sensors that are of the surface-mount resister/transister type that fail. Another thing is these sensors are for performance-enhancement. So why does the Maxima fail completely when one of these goes bad? I spent time looking for how to update the software on the ECU because a firmware update should certainly have a work-around, but no luck. Everything fails in my car intermittently, from the spedometer to the radio display to the key switch. Yet most of the time everything works.

Because of this, my first (faulty) conclusion was the wiring harness issue reported with these cars. That turned out not to be the case in the drivability problem. I had already cleaned the MAF once and my car operated way better for about a day, then the same problem surfaced again so I dismissed the MAF as the cause.

Yet it was indeed the MAF, and I wouldn't have ever figured this out in a million years if it weren't for this thread/forum, in particular I knew my problem was the same as suryoyo's.

 

^^ ECU firmware update??!


Glad you figured out it was your MAF.

 

Should be possible for the computer to cope with a broken MAF. Or at least send a code for it.

Seems reasonable that the software (firmware) would be updateable.

...but I guess not.

Not ridiculous for me to assume.

I read somewhere the Altima has a different design team than the Maxima. And actually the 2014 Altima is superior to the Maxima despite being substantially cheaper.

It won't be the last Nissan I ever buy but it'll be the last Maxima I buy.

 

I had the same problem on my 1995 maxi. After much research I replaced the coolent sensor. The one that sends info to the computer the other one sends info to the gauge on dash. Anyway did mine 4 months ago and no stalling. It's an easy cheap fix.

 

First off, not that anyone cares (or should), but in the interests of full disclosure , despite my handle -- SomeoneElse'sNissan -- the '96 Maxima in question has been mine for some 2 1/2 years now, thanks to my '97 Hyundai Accent's being totaled in front of the police station about 4 months after I registered here. (The other driver, a 91-year-old lady, must've thought the red light was merely a suggestion that she didn't have to follow.) It's a great car, of course.

Second, the problem I'm experiencing might well be covered in this or another thread. I'm not really awake yet, & I've got to be in a meeting all day & won't be able to check my computer, but the problem (re)started yesterday & I want to get my query out there.

In any event, I was experiencing the usual random stallilng in idle, lugging, hesitation upon acceleration, etc. A couple of weeks ago it got really bad & I wound up stalling at a downtown intersection, necessitating a tow to my garage, where they found that somehow the muffler (which had probably less than 15,000 miles on that) had gotten crunched, blocking the exhaust big-time. Cool. Problem solved, right?

Nope. The same stuff started happening again, so Saturday I finally made the time to extract & clean the MAF. Problem solved! The car ran like a dream for about 40 miles that night & the next day. Until ...

... yesterday, when the same old crap started happening. In addition to that, for some reason the left turn signal is blinking twice as fast as usual, while the right signal seems the be the same as ever. Probably that's unrelated to whatever's going on, but I could swear I ddn't notice it Sunday, when the car was running great.

The easiest, most obvious solution, I figure, lies in the fact that while putting everything back together Saturday I found that a large hose clamp had somehow vanished into thin air, & while the connection it had gone around seemed as snug as could be, I'm wondering if some dust got in anyway in the meantime.

Any other suggestions about what could be causing a reversion to the same old problems? I'd normally assume that a fouled MAF wasn't really the problem after all, but those 40 or so miles of trouble-free driving are giving me pause.

Thanks!

 

Hello, everyone - first post here.

I have a similar stalling issue with my '97 Nissan Maxima - it's an automatic. It will happen when I switch from drive to reverse, or when I'm driving in reverse, or when I decelerate somewhat rapidly.

For example, yesterday I got off the highway after traveling 80+mph for 30 min. At the end of the ramp the car stalled when I came to a stop.

Another time I was doing some city driving and was looking for a turn - when I found it, I braked rapidly and the power cut off.

Sometimes the stalling issue won't happen for weeks at a time, and at other times it will occur nearly every time I switch between drive and reverse, or drive in reverse.

Any thoughts? This forum seems great - I'm really looking forward to making the most out of this car as it still only has 100K miles on it

So far it seems like I should:

1) clean throttle body
2) clean IACV
3) clean EGR?
4) check MAF connections, replace MAF
. . .

I'm definitely a beginner, but am willing to dive in to make this car run smoothly!

 

Welcome to the ORG. It looks like you have done your research. You have a low mileage 4th gen to be proud of and enjoy for a good 200,000+ miles. There are some 4th gens running around with over 400,000 miles.

Chances are with the low miles and age ratio you will find the EGR tube and related components slightly or completely clogged with carbon. It is a good area to clean with the other components you listed at this point in your car's usage cycle.

Some members have been successful at cleaning the MAF. I would try cleaning it first. Please let the MAF thoroughly dry before running the car. My experience with a failing MAF is the car will stop running at a stoplight unless I keep my foot on the accelerator to keep the RPMs up. There is also some recommended steps for testing the MAF that I've seen in posts on here. I would search for MAF testing also.

If it turns out that you need to replace the MAF, I would only use a genuine Nissan OEM version. The MAF is made by the same company that makes the ECU. For some reason aftermarket MAFs have difficulty communicating with the ECU.

If you can provide a picture of your car's MAF we can tell you if it looks OEM or aftermarket. Do you know if your car received an aftermarket MAF at some point in the past?

Personally, I keep a spare MAF that I have tested in my workshop for the eventual replacement day. I pick up used MAFs from local salvage yards and test them for future use. Also I'm sure there are members show resell used and tested MAFs in the classified section of the ORG. If you do not have a salvage yard in your area then I would find a used OEM MAF from another member before I would purchase a new OEM.

I'm sure other members will chime in on this thread since many of us have all "been there and done that" with our Maxima or I30 4th gens.

Also note this particular auto site likes to see new posts over bringing back old threads. We might be flooding member's mailboxes that subscribed to this thread years ago.