For as long as you want.

 

i can confirm that you can drive it for at least 500 miles w/ the a/c being unplugged

 

I've confirmed you can do 25k miles w/ it being un-plugged and un belted.

 

Very ironic but the same thing happened to me... I never thought that it had anything to do with the shorter belt though, I think that in my case it was all just a coincidence. I also think this because the FSM shows two diagrams, one car with A/C and one car without A/C. To me, that justified that running a smaller belt would be okay.

My crank pulley went after about 4 months with the shorter belt but I was convinced that it was a result of 12 harsh winters that the car had been though as the rubber insulator had disintegrated away. The alternator went out about 6-7 months after swapping to the smaller belt (or about 2 months later) but I justified it as non-related because it was the original alternator (and at 160K miles) I figured it had exercised its useful life.

Interesting to know though. I wonder if running a S/C like I am now, creates less force on the pulleys because the belt is longer.

 

I've been driving it un belted for 5months so far, how can I un-plugged the AC?

 

There is a metal clip on the top of the compressor that holds the harness, you just gotta unplug it so it doesn't kick the compressor on for defrost/ac purposes.

 

I unplugged it this morning. Thanks

 

if my ac is unplugged what will happen if i try to turn on the heat or defroster? will it do any damage to my car?

 

Nothing would happen. Even if the compressor were locked up, it's not like it would try to turn anyway, with no belt.

The compressor is as critical to the operation of the engine as a sunvisor, or one of the wiper blades; it doesn't make a difference if you have it or not.

 

thanks

 

What will happen is that you will no longer get any "dehumidifying" while in defrost mode. In humid weather it will be harder to keep the windows clear.

 

i live in a high humidity area too and i havent had an a/c compressor hooked up or even belted since last august and my defrost works like a beast when i need it to.

 

Ok so i just tried to use the belt "060355" to do my ac delete.....but i cant manage to get it over the idler pulley (too short)....anyone have some advice for this??!!!??!

 

I am in a dilemma. I have tried 3 different belts today and none are working. The closest I got was with the 370k6 from advanced auto (I couldn't reference it via the 6pk0940#). However, I couldn't gain enough tension with the adjuster. I have the 99 maxima and am ready to junk it. The 370k6 belt measures about 940 mm. Should I be looking for 890 mm?

Also, if the 25-060355 is a good fit, where can I find that?

Thanks

 

You can pick up the 25-060355 in any NAPA parts store. Here's a link right to the part on the napa site: https://napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal...355_0006343647

I just did this today and thought I'd share a few pictures for any other newbies (like me) that come along looking for some help.

First, take of the wheel. May not be necessary, but makes life easier.
Next, you'll probably have a fun shroud in the way.



Take that off and you'll have a clear view of what you're doing.
Now, just follow the first half of this video to get the current belt out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJzpTHIky18 (Check out his other videos too. They're all useful.)

Then do the reverse with the new belt, skipping the A/C compressor pulley. Note that you may need to loosen the tensioner pulley even more to get your fresh 26" belt on. The end result should look like this.



If you're looking for the plug mentioned by shortdogg and others above, it's right on top of the compressor (you'll need to remove or bend back another shroud on the front of the car to get to this):



There's a clip on top on the driver side that you'll need to undo. Here's a picture of the top of the plug, which you won't be able to see clearly while you're unplugging it. Pretty standard stuff.



It maybe the placebo effect, but I noticed a much smoother idle. No more terrible bearing noises either.
Sorry for the mess of pictures, but I hope this can help someone in the future.

-xustu

 

need help quickly will this work on the 5th gen.answer needed asap

 

Do you turn the tensioner pulley bolt clockwise or counterclock wise, Im having a hard time getting it off

 

As posted above: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJzpTHIky18

You need to loosen the lock nut on the front of the tensioner pulley before messing around with the adjustment rod. Also, even if you are doing it correctly it may still be rather difficult to do, in which case the adjustment bolt is likely to shear off due to corrosion.

 

Forever if you don't care about having air conditioning in the summer.

 

No one still has answered me telling me whether to turn the bolt on the pulley clockwise or counter-clockwise

I have a 97 Nissan maxima se

 

The bolt is turned counter clockwise to loosen and allow for adjusting the pully vertically from above. You do not remove the bolt or the pully at all. This is just to allow some slack on the belt.

 

thank you

 

One more thing, is there a tool that can unscrew stripped bolt but can fit in the tight spot where the tensioner pulley is located? Something like the serpentine belt tool but with the ability to work on stripped or rounded bolts

 

Just in case anyone has this problem, my idler pulley fell off while driving as well as the belt so I had to buy a new belt. 850mm belt works for crank to alternator with idler bypass. Hope this helps someone out

 

Punch, chisel, vice grips, pipe wrench...there are many ways to go about it.

What bolt are you talking about, the tensioner bracket to timing cover bolts?

 

The bolt on the pulley like the one on the picture above
Its the one in the top middle, I need something that can turn it since its stripped and something thats about 10" long or longer.

 

You mean the nut that locks down the pulley? Any of the suggestions above would work.

 

The bypass belt works great on my 2002 max but you first have to cut or file off a part of the stud that projects beyond a nut in the form of a torq
This is located approximately near the center part of the belt that travels directly from the engine pulley to the generator and would rub against the belt
It seems that Nissan changed the construction after the gen 4

 

I know a belt can also be walked on. Can anyone explain the best way of doing this?

 

It's much easier to loosen the belt tensioner pulley, put on the belt and then re-tighten the tensioner. There are no guarantees that you can "walk" the belt on. It all depends on how tight the tensioner pulley is adjusted.

 

My options are limited since my I rounded out the nut on the tensioner pulley. I need a specific tool to allow me to succeed with loosening it with ease. Will a serpentine belt work or what? I just need to get it loose.

 

How the hell would a belt help you loosen the bolt?

Have you tried any of the tools listed above? It seems like you are determined to ask the question, but are unwilling to accept the answer.

 

I didnt need a belt to loosen a bolt, I need a specific tool to get it loose in such a tight space. I know vice grips work but some dont completely fit or either slip off. I need something guaranteed to work.

 

...okay then.

How about you just TRY? No one here knows your technical skillset, available tools, or how you plan on getting the car up in the air (and how high).

I listed several options above. Nothing is guaranteed to get that nut off, even a wrench of the proper size (as you see now). Instead of wanting others to do your work for you, why have you not saved the time and actually tried to get it off yourself?

Why not just pull the bracket off and remove the nut off the car?

 

Maybe if he uses some wd40 and a 6 point wrench, it just might loosen.

 

I got some wd40. I will just go at it and see what happens

 

I will use some PB Blaster to see if it helps things. That sucker is on there tight.

 

I finally got it off. WD40 doesnt work as much so I went ahead and got some PB Blaster to get it loose and it worked like clock work. Im surprised no one has mentioned this in this thread. I sprayed some initially but it didnt get it loose enough so I sprayed some more and left it sit over night. It was really loose by morning.

The only thing is its hard to get the belt over the cylinders. I loosen the the adjuster as much as possible.

 

Sounds good, so this same belt should work for a 5th gen Maxima ?
Im guessing its the same setup as the 4th gen ?

 

I just sheard the bolt to the belt tensioner dam! What do they cost for 99 maxima at the dealer? Or is really worth going to a junkyard? I almost had it!