Must I do an alignment?
07-23-2006, 07:44 AM
#1
Must I do an alignment?
I plan on replacing my LCA's/sway bar end links & springs/struts. The springs/struts are Eibach & Illuminas which were removed intact from another local member's ride (used for a year) when he switched to KSports. They are complete, including the mounts & strut bearings. My question is an alignment required since the mechanic won't be touching the tie-rods? I've read on here that since the Max only has toe-in adjustment, an alignment is not REQUIRED. I know it won't hurt, but is it a necessity? I had an alignment less than a year ago & the roads here are in pretty good shape. The car suffers no tendency to pull (apart from low speed issues related to my bad ball joint.
Appreciate the comments
Appreciate the comments
07-23-2006, 08:16 AM
#3
Yeah, from experience, even though you don't touch the tie rods you should still get alignment. My steering wheel was turned 45* to track straight after installing my suspension. Also you should get some camber bolts (they're like $25-30) so that you can adjust the camber back to spec after the insallation. Just make sure you tell the idiot at the alignment shop that you have camber bolts and that he needs to use them.
07-23-2006, 10:30 AM
#4
Originally Posted by the_3d_man
Yeah, from experience, even though you don't touch the tie rods you should still get alignment. My steering wheel was turned 45* to track straight after installing my suspension. Also you should get some camber bolts (they're like $25-30) so that you can adjust the camber back to spec after the insallation. Just make sure you tell the idiot at the alignment shop that you have camber bolts and that he needs to use them.
07-23-2006, 10:35 AM
#7
Originally Posted by 95bluse
Thx for the comments...do I need camber bolts even though the Eibach drop is only 1.5"? I'll search for them locally (toronto area).
I don't think they're necessary, only if your drop is 2.0 or more.
07-23-2006, 06:22 PM
#9
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Originally Posted by 95bluse
I plan on replacing my LCA's/sway bar end links & springs/struts.
Why would you need an alignment?
Thats sort of like changing your oil, but leaving the old filter on.
07-24-2006, 03:36 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,327
I replaced my struts and didn't get an alignment. Nothing really moved. That was 40,000 miles ago. 274k miles on the maxima and I still change the oil filter every other time I change oil. But I do change the oil every 3,000 miles, synthetic or not.
07-24-2006, 07:44 AM
#11
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
Sooooooooooo your replacing your entire suspension, basically.
Why would you need an alignment?
Thats sort of like changing your oil, but leaving the old filter on.
Why would you need an alignment?
Thats sort of like changing your oil, but leaving the old filter on.
Well consider this...the LCA has no adjustments, it's bolted to the undercarriage & moves vertically. I'm basically changing it because my balljoints are shot. I know they can be replaced, but I've already gone that route previously. The struts are also attached with no form of adjustment. The only reason why I can see an alignment might be needed is that there might be a small variance when everything is bolted back together due to the bolts holes not being completely snug with the bolts
That sounds convoluted, but that's the best way I can describe it.My analogy to your oil change point -> after changing brake pads, should I bleed the brakes? Not necessary, but it's a good thing to bleed your brakes occasionally...
07-24-2006, 08:29 AM
#13
Originally Posted by scubasteve
you should always always ALWAYS bleed the brakes after you change them, that is a horrible example.
07-24-2006, 12:30 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 301
The LCA's also are an integral part of the front end geometry. You're replacing rubber bushings which also shift the mount points a 1/32" or so. It all adds up. With that much change I'd get an alignment.
Only try and get a $35 toe in adjustment rather than the $95 "alignment" I got. DOH!!!!
By the way. I did this same job and just love the improved responsiveness. The sway bar bushings are V. important I think. You'll be pleasantly surprised!.
Only try and get a $35 toe in adjustment rather than the $95 "alignment" I got. DOH!!!!
By the way. I did this same job and just love the improved responsiveness. The sway bar bushings are V. important I think. You'll be pleasantly surprised!.
07-24-2006, 01:36 PM
#17
Originally Posted by xlr8r
The LCA's also are an integral part of the front end geometry. You're replacing rubber bushings which also shift the mount points a 1/32" or so. It all adds up. With that much change I'd get an alignment.
Only try and get a $35 toe in adjustment rather than the $95 "alignment" I got. DOH!!!!
By the way. I did this same job and just love the improved responsiveness. The sway bar bushings are V. important I think. You'll be pleasantly surprised!.
Only try and get a $35 toe in adjustment rather than the $95 "alignment" I got. DOH!!!!
By the way. I did this same job and just love the improved responsiveness. The sway bar bushings are V. important I think. You'll be pleasantly surprised!.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DC_Juggernaut
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
4
09-28-2015 04:07 PM