I recently lost my primary key and remote, so I was using the spare. I was attempting to program the spare remote, but it didn't work even with a fresh battery so I think it's broken. I had the key in the ACC position for programing and I closed the door and somehow all the doors locked. Needless to say I had no way of unlocking the doors.

I didn't want to pay $50 to a locksmith or support AAA, our favorite crusaders against pollution controls and mass transit, so I tried coathangers but to no avail; they just weren't quite long enough. Then I went to a hardware store looking for a "slim jim" or other car unlocking tool. They told me it wasn't legal to sell them here (although I've seen them online). I ended up buying a 4-foot, 1/8"-diameter steel rod for $2.99. It was long and stiff enough (she said) to unlock my car in under 5 minutes. I simply angled it in from the rear top corner of the driver's door (have to pull the corner out a bit with your left hand while you gently feed the rod in with your right) and hit the power unlock button. I punched a hole in the weatherstripping but it should be cheap to replace and give me back that new door closing sound as a bonus. I also made some scratches on the inside B-pillar paint (only visible when the door is open) but I'll just touch those up with the Nissan paint pen I have.

This should work for any 4th gen, and should work on most any car that has a similar unlock switch. I would definitely not recommend a rod thicker than 1/8" diameter, and you probably wouldn't want a thinner one either since it might not be stiff enough to hit the switch. Also, be sure to put a little masking tape on the corners of the driver's and rear door so they don't get scratched.

Hope this helps someone else who's locked out of their own car! I figure would-be thieves already know all the tricks so I don't feel bad posting this.

 

You dont have to get out of the car to program the remote, you can do it from sitting in your seat. Also I found that if your following the programming instructions properly and it doesnt work, there is a cable that you disconnect in your trunk that connects to the antenna unit. I tried at least 10 times and had the dealership try 4 times and they didnt figure it out. I did some research and gave it a shot.. Sure enough I have a programmed remote. I know the procedure is in the stickies if you need to compare it to what you've tried

 

You have to be in the car to program the remote since you have to lock the doors and then put the key in the ignition 6 times in 10 seconds, etc.

Before I lost the other remote, it was working fine so I think the antenna's fine. Unless you're suggesting that you have to disconnect that cable to properly program the remote? If so, tell me more!

 

yeah man i locked mine in my car when it was in my shop....running!...i did what you did except i had to use what was sitting around, i had to hit the window down button but yeah all in all took me about 40 minutes....big pain in the a**

 

I would have personally broke out a window. I have a couple of extras though.

 

Thanks, now everyone knows how to steal a maxima.

 

Its not like he taugh us how to hot wire it... Simply pull off the cover over the ignition switch and there should be 3 wires...

 

There's been other "unlocking" threads that were deleted. If you called triple a, they woulda done the same thing. It's their standard proceedure, before trying other methods. I saw them do it on a miata... ripped the canvas top. Haha.

Jae

 

Well when you are half way through the programming ( I think when the lights flash for the first time) it resets all the codes in the computer. So after that point everything shold be cleared out.

Just so were on the same page with the instructions:

1. Close and lock all doors with power door lock switch on driver's door.

2. Insert and remove the key from the ignition more than 6 times within 10 seconds. The hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and the original codes will be cleared.

3. Turn ignition key to "ACC" position.

4. Push the "Lock" button on the new remote controller once. At this time, the car learns the new ID code. The hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice.

For additional remotes continue below else go to step 9

5. If you need to activate additional remote controllers, manually unlock the driver's door only then lock again with door lock ****.

6. Push lock button on the additional remote controller once.

7. Hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and additional remote is programmed.

8. For additional remotes, go back to step 5.

9. Open driver's door to exit programming state when done.

NOTE: Only a maximum of 4 remotes can be programmed to any ONE car.


When you hit step 3 you erase your codes and the lights flash, but what happens when you hit step 4? Do they flash? or not? Cuz at first mine didnt flash when I had that problem so I removed that wire and it reset and I was able to program my new remote. If you press the lock and it flashes your remote is programed, is it doesnt try taking that cable out for 30 secs or so and try it again. Hope this helps

 

yea because there isnt a million other ways like i dont know kicking in the damn window

 

Thank you.

OK Dan, listen, any thief can break into any car they want VERY easily. They may damage it slightly but they don't care. The method I posted is for us Maxima owners who are locked out and want to get in with minimal damage. That's why I posted it. Most people have AAA but some might find this useful for various reasons. If you are truly worried about someone reading this thread and then deciding to break into your car, you should get a decent aftermarket alarm system. If you live in San Diego you ought to have one already. Your '95 has no chip in the key so your car is extremely easy to hotwire.

 

Exactly. The hazards flash after I do the key thing, but when I press the lock button on the remote I get nothing. Can you give me the details on where the antenna in the trunk is and what exactly to do with it? Thanks a lot!

 

When you open your trunk its on the right hand side. Take off that little cover and it will expose this metal box. There is a small plug in type connecter that goes into this box, and that is the guy you want to take out

 

I like the idea of the immobolizer but the more i read im glad i got a 98 lol

 

Well the only drawback to the immobilizer I can think of is that replacement keys are a lot more expensive since they have the microchip.

Thanks Bservice, I'm going to try this now.

 

thats all well and good unless your trying to get my 99..

no chip no care

 

Thats really weird.. My car can never lock whenever the keys are in the ignition???

 

neither does mine lol

 

The key was in the ACC position and furthermore the ECU may have still be in the programming mode for the remote since my remote apparently is broken.

Bservice, I disconnected both wires to that wireless receiver box in the trunk, waited a few minutes, plugged them back in, and tried the procedure again. No dice. I think maybe my remote really is dead.

Something weird: during step 2, I've noticed that sometimes the hazards flash after inserting and removing the key three times and sometimes four or five times...but it always seems to be before the supposed six times....

 

Great, now everybody knows that my '95 has no chip in key and it is extremely easy to hotwire

 

Yes, because everybody in the world reads all the threads on Maxima.org.

 

I don't think people hot wire these cars anymore. My 98 Maxima SE was recently stolen, but luckily recovered. I woke up in the morning and saw my tinted window on the floor in one piece. When I got the car back it appears that the guy lowered the passenger seats back and climbed in the passenger window to open the fuse box because the cover was on the floor when I got it back. Anyway he managed to cut some wire under the hood to disable the factory alarm(still don't know why he opened the fuse box under the steering wheel? Checking for additional alarm?) and then went on to pop open the key cylinder. The guy nearing snaped my wiper control arm luckily only the cover on it snaped open. The car is in my garage now and I use a screw driver to start the car now since the key cylinder is gone. Long story short, don't worry too much about people hot wiring your car since your alarm is broken because it doesn't matter, if they wanna take your car they will. I never realize that those metal key cylinders snap, crackel, and pop so easily with probably a larger screw driver.

 

sweet now i know how to steal that 95 sitting in front of my house...oh wait thats mine