Sorry if I didn't post this in the right place, but it is an urgent problem

 

Did you replace the ignition switch??

 

No, I didn't think that was it. But I guess it could be...

 

Check the ECU for codes. A bad crank position sensor or cam position sensor will prevent cranking. So will a bad ignition switch. Also, in between 'tries', remove the key from the ignition. I dunno why, but when my CmPS started to go bad, it never started unless I was removing the key each time I tried.

If you have no codes, the ignition switch is cheap, easy, and a common wearing item so I suggest you simply change that out first.

Dave

 

what is the best exhaust for my car?

 

what's up everybody, i have a question for ya. i have searched EVERYWHERE on the web for this item. its a cover that goes over the intake manifold. i have seen a few on cardomain, but cannot find these to buy. i hate to ask a stupid question, but s**t i need help

 

as far as i know, there is only a cover like that available for the MEVI intakes, 3.5L VQs (2002-present) and i've seen a few on 2000-2001 i30/maximas

but no cover for the stock US maximas or i30s
but if this is wrong hopefully someone will correct me

 

i think you're talking about a MEVI. It's not a cover. It's actually a new upper manifold.


Is that what you're talking about? Props to JSutter since it's his pic. Hope you dont mind I used it!

 

personally i was talking about the mevi cover there, the part that covers up the vacuum canister and engine wiring harness

but still not sure if thats what he was looking for

 

The MEVI doesnt just go on the 3.5s. Actually I dont think it even is made to fit a 3.5. The only other cover available is a 00-01 AE Engine cover (that goes over the engine tho) and the 3.5 cover that covers the engine. It has to be the MEVI that he's talking about. But yes, it's not a cover it is an upper manifold.

 

thanks for the info. I like the way it looks, i guess i'll have to settle with what i got. That is exactly what i was looking for

 

Well you can put it on the car. Gives mid and high hp gains. It's $350 or something like that.

 

Well I will leave the Hondas alone right now. The Cefiro is basically an Infiniti I30 that is sold as a Nissan in Japan. There are some parts that some Max/I30 peeps buy to put on their car. I.E Headlights for both, Grill and bumper for I30 guys.

 

I have a 1995 SE automatic. It has 114000 miles on it. Last week the odometer and tripometer stopped working. I just realized they work for about the first 2 miles everytime I drive it but then they stop. Does anyone know how to fix it. Is there a sensor somewhere the runs the odometer. The tach and speedo work fine. Thanks

 

Thanks JPMAX for answering my questions! so i guess im not going to buy either. do you think the stock intake with a K and N panel filter is sufficent?

 

It wont really do anything. It's a good filter but that's about it. If you can do a true CAI then do that. But otherwise stock with k&n is best.

 

i have a prob with my idling when i let the clutch out. when i drive normal and let the clutch out the rpm needle goes past the 500 mark and almost hits the 0 almost stalling the car sometimes. i have no idea whats up with that and have no clue how to fix it, it is really annoying. i have an intake thats modified to go by the driverside headlight. any help would be greatly appreciated. thnx

 

First post to the group, but have been getting tons of information for some time. Thanks!!! The reason I am posting is that my 95 Maxima SE seems to be a bit too low to the ground. Although I never bottom out on the road, I do hit bottom when going down steep driveways like my own or most of the ones in manhattan parking lots. Iv'e seen alot af threads about lowering, but nothing about raising. Some friends suggested bigger tires but I'm not sure if thats the best overall solution or if there is a better alternative. Thanks

 

Is your car already lowered? If it is then get different springs. If it's not then get new suspension parts.

 

Wow, thanks for the fst response! Now for the stupid newB question. How can I know if it was already lowered without major work (2 babies and a "their driving me nuts" wife in the house keeps me from getting much of anything done myself anymore).

 

snap a pic and post it up, or measure the distance b/w your tire and your fender. you should be able to fit like 4 fingers in b/w your fender and tire on stock suspension

 

try turning the wheels all the way to one side and taking a look at what's there now. stock struts and springs are black.

 

I have a question. I am looking at a Maxima that seems like exactly what I want, except it is a 1999. I know a lot of 1999 had problems with the ignition coils. Should I avoid it?

 

Ignition coils aren't a reason to not get exactly what you want as far as options and color are concerned. They're not the cheapest items, but you'll only have to change em once.

 

It's definitely not a reason to avoid the car. Take it for a test drive and see if runs smoothly through the rpm ranges.

An ignition coil is about $80 at a dealer. Worse case scenario you replace all 6. Not a big deal compared to some other things.

 

The safety inspector failed my '96 3.0 because the power steering belt and serpentine belt had cracks in them. (The jerk musta been having a bad day). When I went to release tension on the main belt the tensioner bolt snapped in half. Can I buy just the tensioner bolt or do I have to buy the whole tensioner including the pulley? Where can I look up the part number? Is this something a Nissan dealer would have in stock or is my car going to sit in the drive for a couple weeks?

 

You can buy just the adjuster bolt and nut or buy the whole assembly.

Complete idler puller assy- 11925-31U00
Adjuster bolt- 11948-31U00
Adjuster nut- 11934-31U00

 

The car has about 99,000 miles on it. If I take it for and test drive and it seems fine is it likely to crop up later or is it something that would show up early on in the car's life?

The only reason I am concerned is that my father is buying the car for me and he doesn't think Nissans are reliable, and I know if I had to replace the coils right after buying the car I would never hear the end of it.

 

That's what they are saying. You'll probably need to change them if they were trouble before. But you will never replace them again in that car. You will run into problems in the car. Every car has problems. But the majority of the max will be in good shape for the rest of it's life. I'm sorry but your dad doesnt seem to know anything about Nissans then. They are very reliable. I had a 91 max with over 200k and had no problems at all with that car. I think I had to replace the hood struts...but who hasnt on the max. If you like everythign about the car and there arnt other problems then go for it. Make sure you drive it and possibly run the VIN.

 

My two cents:
I have a 95SE 5spd. which I bought new and the only problems I've had in its 100k were axle boot failures, one at ten and one at 11 years, and the need to regrease the internal starter gears when the starter made wheezing noises (very common), also replacing the rubber bushings on the antiroll bar struts when they started clicking. and of course the weak hood struts which I haven't bothered to replace. Parts were no more than $20 each time and I was able to do the work myself. I maintain it reasonably well, but not fanatically (Oil changes with Mobil 1 twice a year, right before and after winter; anti freeze and brake fluid changes every 4 or 5 years). Everyone drives it and it lives outside.

I had the car in Germany for three years and drove it the German way (generally very fast). It doesn't use oil, gets 23-26 mpg typically.

This car was assembled in Japan. I think the 99s were, too. That would be a good thing in my view. There should be a tag somewhere on the vehicle that tells where it was assembled.

Some thoughts: if the interior is in beat-up shape, that's a strong clue the mechanicals were not looked after, either. Also, check the fluids. The brake fluid shouldn't be darker than amber, or it's old. Take a look at the steering fluid level, engine oil level and the appearance of the anti freeze in the overflow bottle.

Later cars seem to have dropped off in reliability. 99 should be pretty ok. Good luck!

PS My car was bought in Salem NH down the road from you....

 

ummm probly a dumb question but what are the rules for the overdrive function on my 97 whats speeds should i drive with it on and what speeds should i drive with it off????

 

I was attempting to do my friends 98 GLE rear rotors and pads yesterday. The passenger side caliper would not come off the rotor. At all. I disconnected the ebrake cable, removed the two 17mm bolts, and even pried a little. Checking to see my procedure was correct, I released the cable from the driver side, removed the bolts, and the caliper would slide off near effortlessly.

He complained of a noise in the rear of the car, and with the caliper being so stuck, I'm thinking it's frozen on. 98 GLE with about 120k on the clock.

Any help is apprecaited.

 

I would leave it on unless you are doing 0-60 tests, 1/4 runs, or, more commonly, accelerating from 50-80 MPH. Leaving it on improves gas mileage. You can also just increase your throttle input when you want it to kick down out of OD to accelerate.

 

my car wont pass emisions, the guy at the emissions place said either the cat. or the egr valve, which should i replace first, i dont have much money but i have to get my tag

 

Had a similar issue in my 91 Z32TT. There is a small electrical motor which turns the odo and failed in my case. If the Max cluster is electronic vs mechanical as I suspect, that could be your culprit.

 

If you have the sheet showing the levels of the test that would be helpful. EGR and the cat affect different sections of the tests.

 

i failed under NO ppm mine was 1032 it allowed 848 then then sheet says reading 1408 when it allowed 937, i passed everything else

 

Do Maximas have a IACV regulator as the Z's did? The Z32 has two components plumbed in series for the IACV system. A cracked hose or faulty regulator could cause issues with an idle (though you would see it upon startup as well).

 

Overdrive just eliminates 4th gear. If you're going up a steep hill in 4th and you want more power flip the switch and it'll kick to 3rd and pull you harder. It's also used for track.

 

High NOx is often a sign of high combustion temperatures, which could indicate a failing EGR valve.

Also make sure your car is warmed up for a good 15 minutes prior to testing.