Brake feels rubbery & lost braking power after broken wheel stud change...any though?
10-30-2006, 08:07 PM
#1
Brake feels rubbery & lost braking power after broken wheel stud change...any though?
Someone from Sam’s club tire center broke two driver rear wheel studs so I went to a local shop to replace them… cost me $83 labor to replace two broken studs on a same wheel (I supplied the studs & nuts).
Before I went to the shop I’ve tried to replace the studs on a rear wheel by myself with a Haynes manual.
I knocked off the studs with a hammer but could not take them out of the disc assembly.
I ended up driving 2000ft to a local shop with two broken studs in a wheel assembly… sounded like popcorn popping noise while I was driving it to the shop.
Anyway, they fixed it but oh no… I’ve noticed that my brake felt hard, rubbery and my pedal felt funny. It used to be very responsive and brake extremely well… after the stud change on the driver rear wheel my Max required greater distance to stop.
I went back to the shop and they said they didn’t touch the brake hose etc and refuse to work on that brake. What do you guys think the problem with my brake after simple stud change?
Any thoughts???
My max has only 102,000 on it and in excellent condition.
Before I went to the shop I’ve tried to replace the studs on a rear wheel by myself with a Haynes manual.
I knocked off the studs with a hammer but could not take them out of the disc assembly.
I ended up driving 2000ft to a local shop with two broken studs in a wheel assembly… sounded like popcorn popping noise while I was driving it to the shop.
Anyway, they fixed it but oh no… I’ve noticed that my brake felt hard, rubbery and my pedal felt funny. It used to be very responsive and brake extremely well… after the stud change on the driver rear wheel my Max required greater distance to stop.
I went back to the shop and they said they didn’t touch the brake hose etc and refuse to work on that brake. What do you guys think the problem with my brake after simple stud change?
Any thoughts???
My max has only 102,000 on it and in excellent condition.
10-30-2006, 08:20 PM
#3
I knew it was damn expensive but I had no choice at that time... damn.
I've asked the possible air in the brake line but the shop guy told me that he didn't touch the brake line so it would not be possible (he thinks
).
I checked the rear brake and it has 70% life remaining and looked good.
I've asked the possible air in the brake line but the shop guy told me that he didn't touch the brake line so it would not be possible (he thinks
).I checked the rear brake and it has 70% life remaining and looked good.
Originally Posted by MaximaSE96
start with checking the pads and bleeding the brakes....and FYI u got JACKED on the stud replacement....
10-30-2006, 08:37 PM
#4
+1 on that labor charge, you shouldve gone to sam's club and try to get them to do it. its quite possible when sliding the caliper off the rotor, the mechanic, thief, whatever, let it hang by the brakeline while taking things apart and was compromised somehow?
10-31-2006, 11:46 AM
#5
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 27
one more possibility is that the caliper guides might be siezed up and need to be cleaned and regreased inside.....happens quite often...that wont let the caliper move as easily and as much as it needs to when braking....one way to check this is try braking pretty hard and see if your rear end is pulling one way or another. If it is, then the opposite sides caliper is not functioning properly and you need to get it checked out...also check the pads to see if there is any uneven pad wear
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