I'm in the process of replacing the bearings in my 5 speed. I have it all disassembled and have removed all of the old bearings, except I can't find a way to pull the main shaft bearing race. The manual shows use of tool J-34286 to pull this race. I've searched the local tool stores and can't find anything that will fit between the case and this race so I can pull it.

I just called Nissan Techmate to see how much this puller costs and they quoted me a price of $696.99.

Just wondering how you those of you who rebuilt your transmissions managed to get this race out.

 

Cut it. No joke, take a look on motorvate.ca

 

He is talking about the mainshaft bearing, not the differential carrier bearings.

I just used a regular two jaw puller and ground the hooks down.

 

I either cut it (crude, gets damaging metal particles everywhere) or pull it using a good bearing splitter. Just be sure to not put any stress on the adjacent gear teeth - they are very brittle and chip easily. So if you get a bearing splitter do not just tighten in that gap b/t the bearing and teeth because you're break something. Install the splitter finger-tight and use a press.

Or take it to a tranny shop and let them pull it with their tools.

Dave

 

sorry , my bad. But I dont get the 696 $ for removing the bearing.?
When I did my own rebuilt, I bring the tranny to a garage. Cost me 900$ include: the labour , 6 new bearings, seals, syncros and paint.

 

I'm referencing the main shaft outer race that is left in the trans case, the one that has the plastic oil passage that comes up the middle. Biggest problem with this race is the plastic tube coming up the middle limits what toos can fit in there and there is practically no space below the race to get the tool under it.

The $669 is for what NissanTech wants for the puller (tool) used to pull this bearing (race) in the FSM .

I was able to get all of the other bearings removed, some by cutting and some by pulling.

 

Well it looks like I may just leave it, or I might try heating the case around it and see if it will drop out.

 

That cup is not tightly fit at all.

If you can figure out how to invert a 2-jaw puller or even use a right-angle scribe tool to get some lifting underneath that cage, it should come right out. It takes almost no force to remove once you unstick it.

In any case, if that bearing is in good shape (they usually are) you can consider leaving the original in there. Either replace it completely or not at all - don't mix a new roller with the old cup. But if the surfaces aren't a nice clean dull grey and free of any markings, replace it.

Dave

 

Just updating this thread for those who might come across it later...

After finding out the plastic oil chanel (part #32109-03E00 ) is only 90 cents, I decided that I should get this old race out. I had an old broken 3 jaw puller setting around so I took off one of the arms and cut the top off of the contact area. This made it small enough to fit under the race and left the round edge of the arm so I could rock it back and force the race up. I walked it around the race and it came out easily.

I'm glad I got it out because it was scored pretty bad when I looked at it up close. While it was in the case you couldn't see any of the damage.

A little help for novices like myself, when pressing the bearings onto the shafts you need to use a drift that will put the pressure on the inside race of the bearing (i.e. don't put force on the bearings themselves). I made sure to find a drift that was large enough that it would slip over the shaft and small enough that it wouldn't put pressure on the bearings... pressed the bearing on one end of the shaft and it all went well, flipped the shaft over and double checked that the drift would fit this end as well etc. everything looked good. Pressed this bearing on and I'm now feeling pretty good about how smooth it's going. Lift the shaft off of the press and cling-clang-cling... the sound of bearings bouncing around. NOTE TO SELF - the cage of the bearing sits higher than the shaft... need to put a spacer under the shaft when pressing the bearings on the top to keep from bending the bearing cage. Luckily I was able to order just this bearing from a local bearing supplier and got it the next day.