ok so...after about 6-7 days of complete and utter confusion while trying to figure out what the hell is setting off this code(P0446) i think ive come up with it. i have tested the connecters which are all getting the correct voltage. ive checked the hoses for cracks and clogs, and hoses checked good. ive even tested the valve itself and it 'seems to be working'. after working on the car and setting off multiple codes due to the unplugging of connectors and hoses i cleared them all thinking i fixed the problem. i drove happily for two days before that bright orange beauty showed up on the dash again.

heres my thoughts: i made sure i plugged in the connectors, made sure the hoses were all good, made sure voltage was correct, and the code stayed off for two days after i cleared them....so its got to be an intermitent problem with the valve itself right? after researching the code i found out that P0446 means "vent control valve (closed)" while P0448 means the valve is sticking open (www.obd-codes.com). there was also a bit of rust on the top part of the valve which may be causing the problem (if it is the valve). so thats another reason i think it may be an intermitent valve problem.

im really in a jam as to how much time i have to fix this problem because the car needs to be inspected by the end of the month. and i dont want to just go out and buy the valve since i have to get it from the stealership and its $116. any 2cents is helpful! is there anything else i should check for before i replace the valve? or have i covered it all?? thanks in advance for any help!

 

that kinda shows where the rust is. for some reason paint wouldnt let me use colors. it would be in black and white no matter what color i chose. sorry.

 

Hi willard00:

I had the same problem on my 98 SE and originally thought it was my gas cap gasket having a small leak. If you go to gas up and when you unscrew the gas cap, it should hiss like a can of soda. If not, then either your cap is bad or the vent control valve is bad. Mine turned out to be the valve after I purchased a new gas cap and my light came on two days later. If you were lucky enough to be able to remove your valve from the evap canister without having the nuts turn inside the plastic housing, then you are ahead of the game. I ended up having to buy the entire evap camister from a parts car with the valve attached and it solved my code problem. The rust you indicated in your diagram shouldn't have any effect on the valve moving because those are just the bolt holes, but it could be sticking or stuck opened or closed even if the valve looks clean.

You can either buy a used valve from a low mileage vehicle like I did or spring for the part from Nissan. Try Infiniti of Scottsdale (parts@infinitiofscottsdale. com) and ask their best price. I have bought several parts from them at a good discount.

Hope that helps!

Ted, Chicago

 

ok ill check out the gas cap. as for the rust, i was more concerned with the rust on the top cylider shaped part of the valve than around the bolt holes. i called a few junkyards around me and none have the valve, so i think if the gas cap doesnt solve it than (unfortionatly) the stearship is where ill be going.

on question to you though ted: did you test the VCV by applying electricity to it and tryin to blow through it before you replaced it? if so did yours test good too? thats the only thing holding me back from pointing directly at the valve and saying "thats the problem." im going to take it off tomorow and test it some more to see if it sticks at all.

thanks for the reply.

 

I have the same problem and my inspection is in January. I have the Vent control valve code and Evap control system code (0903 , 0705).
I think the only way to fix it is to buy a new one from the stealership(+-$100-$110). I hope the nuts will not turn inside the canister and I will not have to spend $55 for a new one. Buying used parts is not a good solution. I heard that vent control valve failure was a common problem in 4th gen maximas when they were new.
You have to replace the valve asap. Don't forget that if you replace the valve and reset the ecu, it should be in "ready" condition when you have an inspection. It could take a few days or a week until the ecu will get "ready" after reset.

 

ok, my teacher was helping me test it and he had me testing the wiring and connectors since there are 3 connectors along the way from the ecm to the vent control valve. although, i was upside down under the dash trying to find the orange/light blue wire and connecter, finally got stuck and angry (im 6'1 210lbs.i dont fit well under dash's.) and gave up. haha. so im gunna take a shot at replacing the valve. thanks for the help. and damn, i wish i was in NY! the stealerships here is gunna charge me $120. and thats the cheaper dealer too.

 

I bought the valve today ($128) and tried to take out the old one, but unfortunately one of the nuts is stuck and spinning inside the canister, so I will have to buy a new canister

 

yep i got mine today too, got it in, now i gotta wait til tomorow to clear the codes cause theres no way im climbing under the dash (i just tryed, i dont fit at all.) and i got mine for $109.65 including tax. the parts guy goes "is this it?" and i said "yep, thats the expensive little bastard." then when he goes to print me a reciept he goes "how about a holiday discount?" so i didnt argue. haha

 

How did you take off the hose from the old valve? Any fuel came out from there when you took it off ?

 

you just pull it off. there are no clamps or anything on it. and no fuel goes through that hose, so no. fuel did not come out. the connector was kind of a b*tch though cause there was a bit of dirt stuck under it so it was hard to press down the tab to release it.

 

Did your valve come with nuts/bolts ? Mine didn't come with nuts and I need new ones.

 

nope no nuts and bolts. i used my old ones. but in your case thats not really possible since theyre stuck in spinning. shouldnt be more then a couple bucks at the hardware store

 

Not sure if this is the exact part you are looking for, I hope this link will help. I had the same problem w/ my 1997. Replaced the solenoid, problem went away.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...99&catalogid=1

 

i dont know either...i dont think it is, but no picture so im not positive. i hope not, cause i already baught it from the stealership for $110

 

I replaced my valve a few years ago. I bought a new one at Bancroft Nissan in Worcester, MA where I only payed $30-$40. Have the prices gone up that much? I know I didn't pay any more that $100.

 

are you sure it was the vent control valve and not the pressure valve? i dunno...in beverly, MA it was $116 plus tax...same with down in RI where i go to school.

 

No it's different part(FUEL TANK VENT VALVE). I called Pinnacle Nissan and they said the Vent control valve isn't in internet catalog.
I already bought the valve at local dealership and I ordered evap canister and gas cap at pinnacle.

 

please find out what the problem is and report back, cuz I have the same codes,(0705) and (0309) thanks

 

You mean (0705) and (0903) ?

 

it was my valve im pretty sure. replaced it last night but havnt gotten a change to borrow my friends scan tool to clear the codes yet.

 

My Evap canister and vent control valve were replaced today.
I bought evap canister ($40) and new gas cap($14) at pinnacle nissan online(+ $9 shipping) and vent control valve at my local dealership($128).
I paid $40 for labor.
-----------
Total $192.

They reset the cel, so I have to drive around for my ecu to be ready for inspection in January.

 

For those with the same problem: If you can get the valve off spray some WD40 into the valve and apply 12v to the 2 terminals. The selenoid should click or clunk open. Do this several times to free it up. Gets rusty in there and binds up.

 

Guys. I see alot of you are buying new EVAP canister's as a result of the fixed nut breaking free inside the plastic housing. So......

Before you attempt to loosen any rusty nut or bolt from something with a plastic housing, spray it with WD40 or Break Free or Kroil or similar rust loosening agent.

You can most likely save $40 on the EVAP canister anyway.

Now maybe y'all did this but just didn't state so. My 2 cents anyway.

BTW - The P0440 and P0446 codes are more common codes for the $110 EVAP vent control valve. Known problem in the A32 platform from what I have seen on the Org for the last few years (just ghetto search the forum and you'll see what I mean). -Slopster