Steering Vibration ?
I just got Rims, and Tires from www.tires.com
They told me they would balance them and everything and all I'd had to do was just bolt them on...I think that was BS! now I when I speed up to about 65 mph my steering wheel vibrates and when I go to 80 it gets worst
... could this be something else???
They told me they would balance them and everything and all I'd had to do was just bolt them on...I think that was BS! now I when I speed up to about 65 mph my steering wheel vibrates and when I go to 80 it gets worst
... could this be something else???
They could have been banged around during transport, get them rebalanced. Also, make sure that they are on the right side of the car. Most performamce tires are unidirectional, meaning that they have to be mounted in a certain position. Make sure that the arrows on all of the wheels point toward the front ofthe car when the arrow is in the top position. Other things to check? Make sure the lugs are evenly torqued and if all else fails, get an alignment.
Originally posted by maximumsport
I just got Rims, and Tires from www.tires.com
They told me they would balance them and everything and all I'd had to do was just bolt them on...I think that was BS! now I when I speed up to about 65 mph my steering wheel vibrates and when I go to 80 it gets worst
... could this be something else???
I just got Rims, and Tires from www.tires.com
They told me they would balance them and everything and all I'd had to do was just bolt them on...I think that was BS! now I when I speed up to about 65 mph my steering wheel vibrates and when I go to 80 it gets worst
... could this be something else???
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it's probably not the balancing
Usually, wheels are are well balanced for a good period of time before rebalancing is needed. I also have vibrations at high speeds. With my stock steel 15'' wheels, there was a lot of vibration on the freeway. After getting new 16'', the problem was not as bad, but it isn't totally gone.
Something else to look into is the camber alignment. Read the old "Andi's MaxFAQs". Though this concerns the car pulling to one side, I think this could be the solution to your problems.
http://web2.airmail.net/scutchen/max...nsion.htm#pull
Something else to look into is the camber alignment. Read the old "Andi's MaxFAQs". Though this concerns the car pulling to one side, I think this could be the solution to your problems.
http://web2.airmail.net/scutchen/max...nsion.htm#pull
Funny. My coworker just got Nitto on rims from Tirerack this past weekend. Car drove fine initially but then noticed that around 60mph, there was a heck of a lot of shaking whereas above and below that, the car drove somewhat fine. Had his mechanic check it out. Well, when my coworker called the dude yesterday at work to find wassup--apparently two of the tires had no weights and it looked like they just flew off! He's getting the four rebalanced so I hope that is it.
I had 16" ICW Racing wheels put on my 1995 Maxima and the guy didn't balance the tires right. When I hit 60, the steering wheel shook and when I hit 75, the whole car shook. Just have the tires rebalanced and that should fix the problem.
Make sure you get a DYNAMIC (multi-plane) balance
I had a similar prob with my 18's. The bozos who mounted and balanced them said all they could do was a static balance (this is evidenced by the placement of the weight(s) at one location from the wheel's centerline-usually at the centerline or on the inside edge for cosmetic reasons). At 65mph, the strg whl vibrated side to side noticeably. After doing some research, it became obvious that this problem may never be corrected using a "static" balance technique.
I brought the wheels to another shop who performed a "dynamic" balance (this is where the weights are placed in 2 locations on the wheel, to compensate for weight differences between the inner and outer part of the wheel, not just the centerline). Problem solved-car rides smooth as new.
I suggest you make sure you have a dynamic, multi-plane balance. This is really the only true way to balance a wheel.
I brought the wheels to another shop who performed a "dynamic" balance (this is where the weights are placed in 2 locations on the wheel, to compensate for weight differences between the inner and outer part of the wheel, not just the centerline). Problem solved-car rides smooth as new.
I suggest you make sure you have a dynamic, multi-plane balance. This is really the only true way to balance a wheel.
I also bought tires and wheels off www.tires.com and mine too vibrate the entire car at speeds over 70mph and get worse past 80. So i first got a regular balance, that didnt do the trick. Then, I took it to a Dunlop place (no Disc. Tire Direct branch here) since the tires were Dunlops and the guy said the tires were wearing more on the inside than outsides, adn exhibited the "feathering" on tread blocks, said the tire was cupping. He said the camber was off, but well, camber cant be adjusted on these cars! Then I had the roadforce balance done on a Hunter 9700, and that didnt solve the problem either. My mechanic said the tires checked out okay on the Hunter, and that the only way to resolve the problem now was to place weights on the outside of the rim also. He said there is a German compnay that makes "stylish" weights (silver, finished to match the rim finishes, etc.) but only sell in high volume and are very expensive (company is called "Wrth" i think). After 3K miles, I had the tires rotated and the vibrations have "changed" but are still there full force. BTW, tires are 235/45 17s on 17 X 8's.
Originally posted by Stillen_I30
I also bought tires and wheels off www.tires.com and mine too vibrate the entire car at speeds over 70mph and get worse past 80. So i first got a regular balance, that didnt do the trick. Then, I took it to a Dunlop place (no Disc. Tire Direct branch here) since the tires were Dunlops and the guy said the tires were wearing more on the inside than outsides, adn exhibited the "feathering" on tread blocks, said the tire was cupping. He said the camber was off, but well, camber cant be adjusted on these cars! Then I had the roadforce balance done on a Hunter 9700, and that didnt solve the problem either. My mechanic said the tires checked out okay on the Hunter, and that the only way to resolve the problem now was to place weights on the outside of the rim also. He said there is a German compnay that makes "stylish" weights (silver, finished to match the rim finishes, etc.) but only sell in high volume and are very expensive (company is called "Wrth" i think). After 3K miles, I had the tires rotated and the vibrations have "changed" but are still there full force. BTW, tires are 235/45 17s on 17 X 8's.
I also bought tires and wheels off www.tires.com and mine too vibrate the entire car at speeds over 70mph and get worse past 80. So i first got a regular balance, that didnt do the trick. Then, I took it to a Dunlop place (no Disc. Tire Direct branch here) since the tires were Dunlops and the guy said the tires were wearing more on the inside than outsides, adn exhibited the "feathering" on tread blocks, said the tire was cupping. He said the camber was off, but well, camber cant be adjusted on these cars! Then I had the roadforce balance done on a Hunter 9700, and that didnt solve the problem either. My mechanic said the tires checked out okay on the Hunter, and that the only way to resolve the problem now was to place weights on the outside of the rim also. He said there is a German compnay that makes "stylish" weights (silver, finished to match the rim finishes, etc.) but only sell in high volume and are very expensive (company is called "Wrth" i think). After 3K miles, I had the tires rotated and the vibrations have "changed" but are still there full force. BTW, tires are 235/45 17s on 17 X 8's.
If your tire is cupped, you may never get rid of the problem until you change them. Otherwise, it could be your brakes (warped rotor) or something else. The wheel may even be out of round or improperly mounted (are you using the correct hub rings?)
I know how frustrating vibrations can be, especially with a car known for its smoothness.
Good LUck.
The wheel may even be out of round or improperly mounted (are you using the correct hub rings?)
what are hub rings? are they the middle thingy the go on the wheel cause the adr gt sport ones that i got dont even fit on my wheels. they are all open. is this a problem? thanks.
what are hub rings? are they the middle thingy the go on the wheel cause the adr gt sport ones that i got dont even fit on my wheels. they are all open. is this a problem? thanks.
The hub rings fit into the center bore of the wheel to aid in centering it during installation on the car. Without them, the wheel could be mounted off-center, causing a vibration. You should be able to pick them up at any wheel shop for a few bucks. I think the Max uses 66.1mm ID, and the OD will have to match your wheels.
Originally posted by cyclemax
The hub rings fit into the center bore of the wheel to aid in centering it during installation on the car. Without them, the wheel could be mounted off-center, causing a vibration. You should be able to pick them up at any wheel shop for a few bucks. I think the Max uses 66.1mm ID, and the OD will have to match your wheels.
The hub rings fit into the center bore of the wheel to aid in centering it during installation on the car. Without them, the wheel could be mounted off-center, causing a vibration. You should be able to pick them up at any wheel shop for a few bucks. I think the Max uses 66.1mm ID, and the OD will have to match your wheels.
Yes, the hubcentric rings are very important. I know tirerack shipped me a wheel without the ring and when I called them, they shipped it to me same day (I was in Sacramento and Tirerack is in Reno). Several factors that may cause vibration that is not related to an unbalanced wheel is an out of round tire, improperly torqued lugnuts, or bad alignment. And it should come at no surprise that with larger rims, there will be more "kickback" on the steering wheel over bumps, so don't confuse that with vibration.
The hubcenter rings issue was brought up, I just havent had time to pop off a wheel to find out if its there or not. I do remember the bag of hardware that came with the set of tires didnt seem to include that, but the tires.com guy insists they had sent them, but did ask me to check.
heck no!
even if they did.. I'd ***** them out
everything was done free... the guys were cool as hell... lol
they were like " what car is this?... GTR? " haha one dood was like so what do you got under the camary I about almost slapped him with a wrench heh... I was like never disrespect a maxima like that!
but everythings cool man... car runs great...that hunter machine owns!
everything was done free... the guys were cool as hell... lol
they were like " what car is this?... GTR? " haha one dood was like so what do you got under the camary I about almost slapped him with a wrench heh... I was like never disrespect a maxima like that!
but everythings cool man... car runs great...that hunter machine owns!
Originally posted by cyclemax
The hub rings fit into the center bore of the wheel to aid in centering it during installation on the car. Without them, the wheel could be mounted off-center, causing a vibration. You should be able to pick them up at any wheel shop for a few bucks. I think the Max uses 66.1mm ID, and the OD will have to match your wheels.
The hub rings fit into the center bore of the wheel to aid in centering it during installation on the car. Without them, the wheel could be mounted off-center, causing a vibration. You should be able to pick them up at any wheel shop for a few bucks. I think the Max uses 66.1mm ID, and the OD will have to match your wheels.
Originally posted by riggy
ok now im all messed up again. i have had mechanics see the car with no hub rings but nobody cared to tell me i actually needed them. should i call whalentire and tell them the rings they sent do not fit on my car??? should i just go looking for some diff ones at pep boys or something? plz let me know. thanks.
ok now im all messed up again. i have had mechanics see the car with no hub rings but nobody cared to tell me i actually needed them. should i call whalentire and tell them the rings they sent do not fit on my car??? should i just go looking for some diff ones at pep boys or something? plz let me know. thanks.
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