A couple weeks ago I had posted about my RPM's dropping and whatnot, and well the problem still persists but I've tried a couple things and wanted your opinions on whether or not I should replace the spark plugs.

Symptoms:

• Car Idle's low (300-400RPM's) then rev's itself up to 6-700 and setlls back down to 550 or so.
• Engine Temp Sensor seems to be loose, gauge on cluster isn't always functioning
• Drops out and stalls whenever out of gear, but not consistently
• Feels like it stalls more after being pushed, i.e. it would be more likely to stall if I revved to 5,000 RPM's between each gear and stopped, as opposed to 3,000 RPM's
• Uneasy ride? Hard to explain, it feels like there's excess fuel and I can be going 40 down a road, on cruise control, and the car will buck a little out of nowhere as if it just burnt up some extra fuel. I could simulate the ride if I just pushed the accelerator in and out randomly.

Things I've done:

• Cleaned TB, problem persists
• Cleaned IACV, problem persists
• Flushed fuel for deposits (this stuff I poured into my gas tank)
• Cleaned MAF
• Replaced Spark Plugs
• New TPS
• New PCV Valve
• New Fuel Filter

Ideas:

• New ECTS?
• ....new fuel injectors? (I hope not)

When I cleaned my IACV, I cleaned the brass/metallic part that was pitch black, took off the brown plastic piece with a spring inside, but that was already clean. I also sprayed the cleaner inside the brass thing and cleaned it up the best I could. Did I clean the right part of it?

Crappy Picture, but the brass is the part I cleaned:





Sorry for the long post, but I hope it was easy to read and understand. Thank you for your thoughts and time.

 

could be many things. Did you use a new gasket for iacv when you re-installed it?

 

i would say have a check out done because mines had a funny sound like the air coming out my exhaust was stuttering, i had my fuel injectors and spark plugs change and it worked perfect from then. i also have problems now after changing my tranny my shift points is messed up and before shifting it would sometime rev too high before switching, or on the highway it would even sometime refuse to switch to 4th, but i say check the spark plugs and fuel injector first

 

... and you have no CEL/SES ?

 

sounds like either plugs(take them out and see if they're fouled yet) or the ignition coil. make sure you check the plug wires and see if they're all getting spark.

 

no CEL/SES, I'll check the plugs tomorrow. How will I know if they are bad yet? (not too inclined on the whole repairing my car thing, new to this).

Also did I clean the IACV right?

and... this may sound dumb but what or where is the gasket?

 

Look at the tip of the plugs. They should be clean and not wet. There is a guide in the Haynes manual to look at the condition of plugs very specifically.

The gasket for the IACV is against the Manifold between the IACV and the Manifold. Its metal

-matt

 

I would recommend NGK's if you do decide to change your plugs....just my .02

 

Are NGK's that much better than say Bosch? the local Autozone didn't have any NGK's only Bosch and some other companies

 

get the NGK coppers @ the local autozone. $12 and same performance (maybe even better).
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/index2....y=US&nav=a0000
for your part numbers. get the V-Power. make sure to regap as they will come too close.

 

yeah if your plugs are wet you're running pretty rich. if ther is anything built up on there, like carbon etc.. you need to replace them.

NGK huh?? i'm gunna do mine soon since i dont know when the last time they were done is. i just bought the car a few months ago and i dont know what kind of maintence was done.

 

When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced

Have you changed the PCV valve before?

 

Aside from those two items, check the default idle speed adjustment. Thats done by disconnecting the TPS on a completely warmed up engine and setting the idle speed via the default idle stop screw on the side of the TB. It should be around 550-600 in neutral. Then reconnect the TPS and set the idle speed via the IACV to 650-700 in neutral. If you still have a stalling condition, check the ECTS and MAF sensors.

 

I would change the fuel filter and pcv. It's best to try the cheap things first, and if they haven't been changed for a while they probably could use replacing anyway.

 

Ok so I ordered 6 NGK Platinum BKR5EGP's, ok?

Problem is still here, and a little worse now and the tach is doing something crazy, shown here: (clip is ~1:00 long)



And now, I come out to my car with my window down, he window stopped working and fell down -_- . Any quick fixes to that or am I going to have to buy a new regulator? I'm going to take the door apart tomorrow to see if anything's loose or just off a track.

 

Possibly still the IACV. You should take the brass hat off completely and clean throughly inside it. Maybe the TPS also? If you can borrow a multimeter you should try testing the TPS to make sure it's functioning properly.

 

If the TPS was off wouldn't it be throwing me a code?

 

Not necessarily. If it isn't completely dead it won't trip a CEL.

 

I'm surprised I haven't tripped the CEL yet, my car is barely functioning -_-

 

As for you window problem rig it up. i used a wood stake and laid it parraell and set the window on top of it till my window motor and regular came in. I have a 95 as well and i've replace 2 of them already im waiting for the other 2 to go now.

 

You don't have CEL , but did you check for ghost codes ?
Replace your pcv, fuel filter, raise idle speed to 650-700rpm in N (get a philips and turn the palstic screw on top of the IACV counter clockwise couple of turns while the engine is running)

 

I think i found the window problem...



Ordering a new motor today, and the spark plugs are still on the way.

How do I go about checking for ghost codes?

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=104931

 

I checked for codes and got 05 05 -_- so I guess I don't have any ghost codes.

Is there anywhere to get an especially cheap window motor? Or should I wait for someone to part out a 4th gen and claim the piece, I have the regulator track clamped right now so that the window doesn't slide down, and seeing as its winter I can wait a bit to install the motor since I won't be needing the windows down anytime soon.

 

you might try checking car-part.com or call around to some local junk yards for the window motor

 

get a TPS of a working car and try that. thats some weird ****, and i think it would be either TPS or iacv related.

 

A TPS is just plug and play like that?

 

I just had a thought, this problem I have seems to be something with my air system, either my IACV, TB, MAF, and was wondering if these same problem could be caused by a partially "clogged" or dirty Air Intake.

I have an original PR CAI installed, but getting to that Air Filter is a pain in the @$$, I remembering putting it on, since i couldn't slip the tube into my fender and then slip the monster filter up from under the car and screw the bolts on I ended up using a hose clamp real tight on there. Not the smartest idea, but it's been working. It was so hard I actually Attached the filter on the tube, then lifted it up through the bottom and pulled the tube through the hole I cut from inside the fender, sadly scratching the polished black tube.

My splash guard down there is only 1/2 on since I broke one of the little screw/clip things.

Anyway, my question is: What is the best way to get to that Air Filter?

Remove Headlamp and all the pieces in front of it?

 

my idle did the same thing and the car would cut off when i came to a stop. TPS was bad soon as i changed it everything was fine till O2 sensor went bad.

 

Symptoms:

Car Idle's low (300-400RPM's) then rev's itself up to 6-700 and setlls back down to 550 or so.
Engine Temp Sensor seems to be loose, gauge on cluster isn't always functioning

....did you fix the temp sensor yet??

 

That and my PCV are the next two things I'm going to change. I wish I had a garage, it's getting cold....

Eh... not yet, not really sure how to be honest, I'm sure it can't be terribly hard to figure out though.

 

I just went out with my multimeter to go check my TPS and my TPS is noticeably different than the ones I've seen in tutorials. Normally the TPS has 2 sets of 3 connectors, and you check the ones on the right of the car (Passenger side). My only has one set...

With Connector


Without


Shot of TPS (says Hitachi on the side)



So I guess my question is, how do I check it? I turned the key to ON and put my negative on multimeter to an engine block ground, and the positive one on the connector on the passenger side (Farthest away in pictures).

 

tps troubleshooting.....

http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/tps.html

 

Been there, but notice the TPS in that guide has two sets of 3 pins, mine has one, and when I checked the resistance and voltage I got 0 for both, it wasn't picking up anything so it's the wrong set of pins.

 

Same thing for me, mine has only 1 connector. Guess it's a 95 thing?

 

Nope, I just decided to look at our electrical schematics, It's actually a manual thing, so I take it yours is 5spd.

One set of connectors has GRN/BLU, GRN, WHT/RED wires and the other BLK, WHT, RED. Ours is the BLK/WHT/RED. The other one goes to the Automatic Transmission Control Unit.

Anyway, I just rechecked the TPS, and received these results:

Lead ||| Wire ||| Result

Positive RED 5.02 Volts
Negative BLK


Positive WHT 4.49 Volts
Negative BLK

Positive RED 0.49 Volts @ Idle, 1.08 Volts @ ~4,000 RPM's
Negative WHT

Positive RED 5.03 Volts
Negative Engine Block (Ground)


The only thing I can conclude is that it may need to be adjusted because I should get 500 ohms of resistance @ 550 RPM's, and 4,000 ohms of resistance @ WOT, and when I was @ ~4,000 RPM's I'd give it 1/2 throttle, so I should receive ~ 1,725 ohms of resistance, and I only received 1,080.

Also I'm thinking it could just be flaky, work one minute and just cut out. But my thought is, in the manual it has error code 0403 listed as "Throttle Position Sensor Fault". If the car stalled because of it wouldn't it trip the CEL? And if it didn't would that be a problem with the PCM or ECU?

 

I've concluded I"m just been watching my TPS die, Now I have to give gas almost constantly to keep the car on, and my CEL would flash, or go off, or stay on, and when I pulled the code I got 0403, so it's official.

Thank you all for your help and advice, if anyone has an extra TPS it'd be nice :-)

Problem Diagnosed: Throttle Position Sensor Malfunction

 

Do I get an e-cookie for suggesting it first?

 

yes, you get an e-cookie

 

Well, you see, the problem is still here... And the title is misleading, can a mod change the thread title to something to the effect of "Low Idle Problem" or "Stalling Problem"?

Since I've started the thread I have:

Changed Spark Plugs
Replaced PCV Valve
Replaced Fuel Filter
Cleaned IACV, TB, and MAF
Replaced TPS
Flushed Fuel Injectors

problem persists, I'm noticing light dimming when it drops that low, normal?

Where do I go from here?