Replaced Knock Sensor.

CEL still gives 0304.

Is the sensor defective?

Do I return the sensor and get a new one?

Could there be a different problem?

I'll try to check the resistance on the new one this week and update this thread.

did u reset the ECU after replacing it ?

the ECU will not go off on its own, it needs to be reset

i need to replace my KS but i dont think i can do it on my own, how hard is it ? what tools did u need ? how much is this KS from the dealership ?

i am thinking of going to the dealership but i dont want them to take the upper manifold apart

Yea you have to reset the ECU. If you didnt that why you still got the code.

i asked this in my other thread but i dont think anyone gonna reply.... i just changed mine a lil while ago and there was only one cord going to it...... the knock sensor has two pins but there is only one cord on the plug going to only one pin on the knock sensor.... normal?

reset ur ECU....or drive for a week and it will go off

this is normal


and to the OP, reset your ecu as everyone else has said.

KS is $64 on ebay, shipped to your door. Takes maybe a 1/2 hour with the right tools. I used a 12" extension, 12pt. 12mm socket and 3/8" u-joint. Was a piece of cake.

Reset the ECU and am waiting on MPG results now.

YES I did reset the ECU!!!

I also tried to disconnect the battery for one day.


Tools:

1.) 12mm socket
2.) rachet
3.) Long screw driver that will not bend (used to untighten the bolt, one end contacts the end of rachet, used side of engine for pivot, pulled hard from the other end)
4.) The most important tool of all *****HAND GLOVES***** if your hands are small enough to fit in the little space.

Took me 10 minutes.

huh? i kinda understand but i never heard that before....

it worked for u, so

1) you didn't reset your ecu, most important.
2) new knock sensor is bad, you're jipped by your seller, get another one.
3) if you did reset, you must have torqued screwed it down tooooo tight, this kills the knock sensor. Or you screwed it toooo loose, this will give weak knock readings, too. Gotta keep it within specs. Sorry, I forgot the specs.
4) you installation of the new knock sensor was dirty, there's loads of crap between the contacts of the sensor onto the platform.

-Peter-

5) Clean the contacts of the KS wires attached to the engine

i forget now, but there is a proper torque setting for screwing the KS in

how the heck in the world r u supposed to know how much torque u have applied with a simple ratchet ?

You use a torque wrench



Check the harness, it might be bad as well.

well thats why i said my tools are limited , nbever seen a torque wrench

and if they ship the KS over could it come damaged cause its sensetive to being dropped ?

Anythings possible, but why not check the harness first for visible damage?

check the easiest most obvious things first before you jump to conclusions. Check the grounds for the KS, make sure there clean, reset the ecu if the code still shows up, check the harness, the measure the resistance of the KS. then you can determine if you were ripped off

This guy sounds poor, dont' get me wrong, I am poor too. But I'd know to get the right tools and get things done right; or else, I won't even do it.

You really will need to buy a torque wrench, without it, you're doing your maintenance and repairs blindly. You'll need to buy a haynes manual too, they show torque specs for many critical parts, plus all kinds of good info you can find and learn from your maxima. You should also buy a multimeter because it'll help with diagnosing many code related problems.

-Peter-

Words to live by if ever thinking of working on the Maxima..or any car for that matter.
Do it right or go home.

two small screws it's on front of the intake manifold collector, u can loosen & retighten these ground screws

could be corrosion on the wires. keep in mind getting a code for a sensor doesnt mean its deffinatly the sensor. it just means the problem is in that general area. (although most of the time it is the sensor)

My wife (small hands) and I recently replaced the knock sensor without a torque wrench. We used a standard ratchet, extension, universal joint, 12mm socket and lots of tape. We didn't need a torque wrench. Use one layer of tape around the knock sensor bolt to keep the sensor on the bolt while you position it. Tape the sensor to the heat shield tube around the wires to make the positioning easy. Let the wife start the bolt and sensor into the hole (this requires a good relationship). Finish tightening with the socket setup. Tighten as you would a 12mm bolt with a 1/4 drive socket even if using a 3/8 drive. Tape the socket to the universal and the universal to the extension so they hold together. We reset and have not seen the code since.

Make sure you did not OVERtighten

This has been covered already. . . . .