Yay! I go to the Nissan Stealership here in Bloomington, IL, because the CEL came on, FINALLY.


After driving around for a month of crap gas mileage (250-290 miles to the tank, when it used to be 400-450), ugly hesitation between 2500 and 2700 rpms, and a general lack of power (it felt like driving a sickly 4-cylinder... not a torquey V6.)... The CEL came on.


They put it up on the lift. Well, let me rephrase that. They *TRIED* to put it on the lift, but my BlehmCo LTBII made the car not want to roll over the lift's mounting pads. Upon realizing that they didn't need to jack the car up for anything, they wheeled their testing equipment over to the car, and plugged it in. I was there for them to pull the following codes...


P0304 dead ignition coil on cyl #4
P0305 dead ignition coil on cyl #5
P0306 dead ignition coil on cyl #6


P0325 knock sensor

P1401 EGR



Sweet! Now I get to watch them take my car for an undetermined amount of time, get their greasy paws all over my CLEAN car, and generally work on it without my supervision or knowledge.

Also, to sweeten the deal, they don't know if they'll honor my extended warranty that I paid $1865.87 for, because I didn't buy it (the car or the warranty) FROM Nissan, rather, the Chevy dealer across the street. If they don't honor it, then I'm going to the Chevy dealer and getting my money back. I've NEVER claimed anything under warranty in my life... and the first time I ever have to, for almost $900 worth of work, may or may not be covered? Am I the only one seeing the problem with this?



So yeah, my Saturday morning was awesome... how about yours?

--Evan

 

I hate Nissan dealerships.

 

All stealerships need to die.

 

Did you get all 5 of these codes at the same time?

 

Yeah, that's what the screen said.

 

DIY

Going to the stealership for repairs ftl... For the cost of a (or use of a buddies) OBD2 scanner you could've known what work was needed and called around to repair shops and ask for quotes. I would never just leave my car with anyone for an undetermined amount of repair work. You are begging for problems.

Now in regards to the warranty, from what you've stated, you bought the car from a Chevy dealer and bought the extended warranty from a Chevy dealer. What would that have to do with the Nissan dealership? They have no obligation to honor anything. Now if your warranty company is willing to pay the Nissan dealership for the work that they (the warrant company) are authorizing then great. Otherwise you need to go to the people that you paid for the warranty in order to make a claim.

 

My deductible is $100 for any warranty work.


I am a BIG proponent of DIY. However, when parts alone are WELL over what I have financially available, I'm kinda forced into going to the warranty. 100 is better than 900.

The Chevy dealer said, "take it across the street, they should honor the warranty, but we can't work on it... we don't have the right tools or know-how to work on Nissans... If they don't honor it, have them call us."


So, I'm kinda just waiting for monday morning to come around, to take it back to Nissan, and see what they say.

 

dude what are you thinking going to the dealer for freakin coils thats the simplest swap...buy some coils somewhere on ebay or the org for sale forum has them sometimes. I've seen them on the forum for 60-130 bucks.

If you were anywhere close to me, i would come change yours for free. If you want to know how to do it, PM me and i'll tell you, its literally simpler than taking your wheels off.

 

he went there to get codes pulled and since it's under warranty, he will dish out the 100 bucks to get it all done.

 

i understand that, but he practically said that he doesn't like the fact that they're working on his car, so i'm suggesting he spends a few extra bucks and does it himself, and makes sure everything is right.

 

He's trying to stick it to them. I think it's the coils. I can't wait to hear what they think. Probably a 2000 dollar job to them.

 

If 3 out of 6 coils are indeed DEAD, you wouldn't even be able to drive the car.
I'd look for a 2nd opinion.

 

Yeah. Your cars ECU is probably trying to play a trick on you (or is in cahoots with the dealership).

 

Go to a Autozone, and have them hook up the scanner to see what codes come up. There's your 2nd opinion.

 

Look at his forum Avator/profile thing. He has a 99 Maxima. That is like an automatic bell ring for coils.

 

Sad, but true.. but I mean hell 3 out of 6!! No..

 

You need to read your warranty. Probably the GM dealer will not pay Nissan. You probably had to do all warranty work at that dealership or another GM dealership with approval.

For some reason I bet you are going to be out of more money than the cost of the warranty.

 

Just got back from autozone... they pulled the exact same codes.

 

Make sure they will honor the warranty before they begin any work. If they do, spend $100 and have them do it. If not, dave yourself a ton of money an do it yourself.

 

yeah that's true, but these things don't normally "hard fail" right away, so it's possible to have bad coils on multiple cylinders and still be able to drive.

that said, there are many things that could trigger the misfire code besides bad coils, and it's unusual to see 3 of them go bad simultaneously. also, I think it is normal to get P1320 first before one of the coils fails (that is, if it is a primary side failure - as in the transistor).

chef - find out how much you'd get back by cancelling your warranty. if you get more than $1k back I'd cancel and do the work yourself. my experience with aftermarket warranties is that they will find a way to screw you. big scam.

 

I agree with sky jumper on all points.

Read the fine print of your warranty.

They may consider coils, knock sensor, and EGR to all be "normal wear and tear" issues, which they will not cover.

We all know here that these are common problems on our 4th gen max.

 

They got 3 coils at $70 each and $123 for a KS =$333 in case you're interested.

at http://www.buynissanparts.com/

 

get a knock sensor from Ebay , they are like 65 bux or so . Hell ill sell you my old knocksensor. I had one , which worked fine but in the heat of the moment , i decided to change it anyways , and it didnt make ANY difference to my car , so I now have a spare working knock sensor . PM me if you are interested .

 

One other thing to consider is that if you do have a dead coil, it could be triggering the KS code also. I would start with the coils, clear the codes, and see if the KS code comes back. Mine hasn't in the 45k since I replaced my coils.

 

a bad KS will not set off the CEL light so the code is probably still there.

 

P0304-306 arent dead ignition those are mis-fire codes and trust me with a 10mm and 2 fingers are all you need to changer em knock sensor is a bit more in depth but def. do-able. As far a EGR P01401 i cant remeber what that code means but there are a number of codes for EGR i will let you know tomrrow

 

that code is for the EGR temp sensor that is located in the small EGR pipe which is probably blocked with carbon.

 

Hi, 4x4Max,

Can you help me with replacing the knock sensor? I am in florence, Knetucky.


If so, please pm me.

Thanks

 

Yeah I know it doesn't trigger the CEL. However when you have a misfire it can cause the KS code to come up even when it isn't truly bad. I get 0505 now so I'm good.

 

damn right!!!!! if the morons at thr chevy dealership can't work on your car, then they need to find another place to have your car fixed, i went through that same bs myself and got squat out of the dealer!!

 

Why are people in the dealerships so Dam% stupid? I just do not get it...they always try to rip you off...and they really never know what the heck is wrong with your ride when you take it to them....I just don't get it.....it is sad.

 

Because they can. And they usually have you by the ***** at that point. The dealership is a last resort for me. But when I go there I have given up already so they have won before I even walk in the door.

 

Am i the only one who thought he physically hit a Buick Trifecta? ....

 

^^^ I go to the Kentucky Derby every year, and play the ponies quite a bit at OTB... it was a gambling reference.



They ended up f'ucking me... but not badly.


O2 Sensors and Knock sensors are not covered by the warranty. Since the dealer was the only place in town that had them in stock (or wasn't backordered till 2008), they put them on.

$509.86 for 3 O2 sensors, 1 knock sensor, new belts, all new fluids, and labor.


The dealership that I bought the car from, is reimbursing me for the fluids and belts, since they told me that it was all done prior to the "delivery" of me picking up the vehicle when I bought it, when, in actuality, it wasn't.


So, it looks like I'm only out about $300 total. It's a lot better than I thought, but way more than I wanted to spend.

 

Are you codeless? Drive the car 50 miles and come back with your results. I'm sure you will be back in the dealership b/c they can't diagnose cars for anything.

 

The are reimbursing you for fluids and belts or not?

300 dollars plus what you spent on the warranty. Hmmm, not good.

 

I thought they said the 3 coils are what tripped the cel?!?

lol

 

Aremelius--- yes... fluids and belts are being reimbursed. The warranty only covers MAJOR work... like, if I grenade the motor or tranny.


MrEous--- the 3 O2 sensors all tripped the KS, which retarded the timing, which then made the 3 coils *appear* to be shot. However, after they replaced the O2 sensors and the KS, the car runs BEAUTIFULLY.

 

I find that hard to believe. I'm not calling you a liar, I'm just saying that at any other dealer in the US the O2s, KS, and belts alone would cost >$600 for just the parts. + at least 4 hours labor = $400 (and that's if they didn't remove the UIM) + whatever you're including in "fluids" -- a coolant flush is $100, brake fluid flush is $50, ATF flush is $100, etc. so a realistic dealer quote would be closer to $1300 after they throw in the "shop supplies" and tax. so I'd say you got a real bargain as far as dealer work goes. please post a scan of your receipt -- I'd love to see how the $510 breaks down.

 

Still with the cost of the warranty, you would of been better off to do that yourself. You would have much left over. Fluid and belts? I think that would be around 250.00. But if you think you got a deal don't let me steer you wrong.