i have a 5 speed, from a stop, it is damn near impossible for me to get it into any gear, and while driving and ready to shift, and it seems like while driving im shifting without the clutch, it grinds its way in unless the rpms are right.. this problem started occuring 2 days ago, i am unsure what this problem is. the clutch is not slipping at all. is it synchros? pressure plate? any help would be great, thanks.

 

I think your clutch or clutch hydraulics are having a problem. The resistance would come from the clutch not releasing.

Take it to a tranny shop soon, or else you'll damage even more expensive stuff.

Dave

 

Mileage on car/clutch would be helpful. Check the clutch fluid level first, it's on the firewall near the brake booster, if you're not missing any it's more than likely a weak pressure plate. Are you good with cars and have a large collection of tools? if you are you can save alot of cash by doing the clutch yourself, enough to buy an aluminum flywheel or something else nice for your car, or more tools....

 

clutch has about 25k on it, tranny was just rebuilt less than 5k ago, i checked the fluid, there was no clutch fluid, i filled it, should i try bleeding it?

 

If there was no fluid, then simply filling it and bleeding it probably won't solve the problem for very long. But it's a start.

 

just not my day.. i bleed the clutch, it was much nicer shifting, so i go to take the car for a ride, i back out of my driveway.. i go to put the car from reverse to first.. the shifter is stuck in reverse. i backed it into the street and left it.. will not budge at all from reverse.

 

Take off the intake snorkel and look for a leak in the clutch line. That much fluid loss has to go somewhere.

I would replace the clutch line, and if I felt like really ending the problem, the master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder.

Dave

 

not your day, lol, you know a clutch job with rear-main and oil pan seals is $320 in parts alone, you should be happy. Pop the intake off like dgeesaman suggested and check for leaks at the slave cylinder, master cylinder, the connection near the transmission mount, and the junction box underneath the long square-coiled line that runs up to the strut tower bleed. (there is two bleeds), the junction box underneath the square-coil line is a pain in the *** to examine if you have abs. Just keep following the lines until you find the wet spot. If it is the slave cylinder or master cylinder (leaking inside car underneath dash) you can purchase rebuild kits from nissan for like $8