Well, I’ve 96 Max SE 5-speed and my check engine light came on.
I went to Autozone to pull out the code and according to the print out I’ve some problem on my transmission range sensor.
This is 5 speed and I don’t know why I’m having this problem… I’ve tried to reset but keep coming back.
How much does it cost to replace and what exactly is the transmission range sensor on 5 speed model?

 

I've rebuilt a number of 5speed transmissions and I've been on this board for like 6 years and I've never, ever heard of this...

 

me either... I have to pass the emission and I can't take my car with check engine light on.

 

I as well have never heard of such a code. I'd recommend either reseting the light and see if the code comes back, or pull the code yourself and compare to the diagnostic list here in the stickies.

On a side note, when working on my sisters car (96 corolla) I thought I fixed the egr problem and reset her ecu, next day she went and got her car tested and passed emissions. A day later the light came back on. I obviously didnt hit the source of the problem, but she got her car tested before the ecu ran thru the full cycle and she passed. . .

 

Yeah they probably pulled the code incorrectly. I'd reset it and then pull the code manually next time.

Dave

 

Depending on the code, it may not be specific to AT models.

If it was P0705, it would indicate a problem with the PnP sensor on your tranny or the related circuit.

Generically, the P0705 code is:

P0705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit malfunction (PRNDL Input)

 

Eng92, could you explain that a bit more because i believe I have that code. Pnp Sensor?

 

The code is probably the P1705, this is for the neutral position on a 5-speed transmission.

Yes it is a real issue for a manual trans, because the ECU needs to know if the trans is in neutral in order to compensate for certain conditions. A good example is if the gearshift is placed in neutral while driving with the cruise control engaged. In this instance, if this sensor is not responding properly, the engine RPM would run away.

 

Neutral position switch aka Backup Light switch (MT-6) is for reverse lights. Its P0705 DTC: 1003 Switch costs about 25$ and can be tested by checking continuity between pins.

 

Yes, I went back to the Autozone to confirm the code and it's P0705 code.
Where can I purchase that part online at cheap price? where is that part located and how to change it?
Also, which wire to check for continuity test?
thanks

 

Also, is there any way to reset the code instead of removing battery cable?

 

check the stickies at the top of the 4th gen section for greater detail.

down by the gas peddle you'll see the ecu and towards the rear of the ecu a screw that is covered by a plastic strip, peel back and follow the steps in the sticky to reset the light. Its easy and better than taking off the battery and having to reset all your stations all over again, and the clock.

 

That's not true actually, if you 'pop' (no clutch) a manual trans 4th gen into nuetral with cruise control on the engine WILL rev to redline forever, it even warns of this in the owners manual, which I always thought was weird, so I tested it out one time on the highway..........

As for the sensor, you better hope it's the outer one, it is a large black circle with a few wires going into it and a 10mm bolt holding it in place and is located on the drivers side of the trans down low, the new one from nissan comes with the long harness and connector and I think it list's at like $45 or something, be prepared for all you're fluid to come out, this is actually the drain for the trans fluid as well. NOW, If it is the other part of the switch, the little plastic peice with some metal contacts on it, it's inside the trannsmission, no way to replace it without splitting the case open, of course that one is only like $3 or something stupid, go figure.....

 

good info! also, a few months ago one shop replace the gear oil, master & slave clutch cylinder.
I'm not sure whether they messed up my sensor while wokring on my car... the light came one a few weeks after this service and car was running 100% for the last 11 yrs.

 

That's strange, because when I bought my replacement sensor at the dealer, the small part with 2 contacts that goes inside the trans was included. Took the old one out of the trans with needlenose pliers, replaced it with the new one just as easily. Not at all necessary to split the trans.

You are probably correct about the cruise issue, never really tried that one.

 

I reset the ECU according to the sticky (so easy) but the bad part is it only last for a few sec. After 2~3 sec check engine light returns... tried a few times and I guess my sensor is really bad.

 

That little bit of info will come in handy for me very soon, good to know, the only time I replaced them was with a trans apart and I never ever ever would have thought you could pull it out from the outside, just out of curiosity is it fairly easy to grab it or was it a biatch?

 

If the shop did damage your sensor don't think any less of them for it, it is very easy to break off the one little plastic bolt flange, so it's also possible that's what happened because once that happens i'm pretty sure (not positive, can't remember) that when they break they break in the middle of the bolt hole and part of the flange is left intact and you can still snug it up to get by, however if that is the case don't cheap out and not get a new sensor, if that thing pops out on the highway you'r f$%&d, you wouldn't be the first .org member to lose all his fluid and have the front tires lock up as the trannsmission grenade$

 

It was fairly easy with a pair of needle nose pliers. It is kinda deep in the opening, but very much accessible. I have actually replaced several of these sensors over the years for different people, never a problem.

 

It's not hard to do. I can't do it with my fingers, but a needlenose pliers will work.

In theory this contact could get washed out or knocked loose by draining the oil here.

If you want one of these contacts without buying the whole new sensor (in case your sensor is unbroken but the contact is missing) send me a pm. But the whole sensor is only $25, and considering that the problem could also be the sensor or wiring, is probably the best way to go.

If you remove the switch, be prepared for the oil to come glopping out. You'll want your biggest and deepest drain pan, or at least something to keep any splashes off the ground.

Dave