Question for the electronically enhanced!
Question for the electronically enhanced!
Every since my 3.5 swap, the ECU has been throwing a code for the MAP/BARO solenoid.
I've checked the voltage on the solenoid- GOOD
Checked the readings from the connector-GOOD
I've done the test to where you directly wire the solenoid onto the battery and it does a clicking noise-GOOD
There are no vacuum lines hooked up to it but there are several people with the 3.5 that dont have any vacuum lines hooked up and they dont have codes.
I did notice that the wire insulation is torn by the ECU but the wire itself looks good. I think I might have done it when I was installing the rpm switch.
Either way, I thought about throwing a bead of solder on it just in case it might be damaged. The thing is that I remember it throwing out the code prior to me installing the switch.
My questions are:
1) Does anybody know what else may trigger the code or how else I can check?
2) Do you think that the code is being thrown because of the wire's insulation being torn and the wire being exposed?? Would the bead maybe help it??
Thanks in advance!
I've checked the voltage on the solenoid- GOOD
Checked the readings from the connector-GOOD
I've done the test to where you directly wire the solenoid onto the battery and it does a clicking noise-GOOD
There are no vacuum lines hooked up to it but there are several people with the 3.5 that dont have any vacuum lines hooked up and they dont have codes.
I did notice that the wire insulation is torn by the ECU but the wire itself looks good. I think I might have done it when I was installing the rpm switch.
Either way, I thought about throwing a bead of solder on it just in case it might be damaged. The thing is that I remember it throwing out the code prior to me installing the switch.
My questions are:
1) Does anybody know what else may trigger the code or how else I can check?
2) Do you think that the code is being thrown because of the wire's insulation being torn and the wire being exposed?? Would the bead maybe help it??
Thanks in advance!
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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I find it very hard to believe that with no vacuum lines connected to that switch the system will not throw an error code.
The ECU uses that swtich to see what the manifold pressure is (MAP) and the atmospheric pressure is (BARO). Without any vacuum hoses connected, it cannot possibly detect the two completely different pressures. Therefore the signal from that sensor is the same, always, and the ECU thinks there's a problem and throws an error code for it.
My .02 cents.
The ECU uses that swtich to see what the manifold pressure is (MAP) and the atmospheric pressure is (BARO). Without any vacuum hoses connected, it cannot possibly detect the two completely different pressures. Therefore the signal from that sensor is the same, always, and the ECU thinks there's a problem and throws an error code for it.
My .02 cents.
I cant afford to switch my ECU, its a T/S and those are hard to come by.
So maybe thats why others werent getting codes... I was unaware that the 95's didnt have that.
So if I want the code to be removed would I have to find a vacuum source from the intake manifold, and one from the intake itself?
So maybe thats why others werent getting codes... I was unaware that the 95's didnt have that.
So if I want the code to be removed would I have to find a vacuum source from the intake manifold, and one from the intake itself?
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