CV Joint Boots Help Please
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 222
Has anyone replaced these themselves? How long did it take? Is it a pain in the ***? If you had a shop do them how long did it take and about how much? Mine are both ripped on both sides, but the kit is only 9 bucks a side. Trouble is I dont't want to take it to a shop and get ripped for labor.
I had a friend that had a Rodeo 4wd and they got her for $450 for just the boots. Now I don't know if 4wd makes it harder or takes longer. I just don't want to pay out the *** to get this done. Thanks for any help
Robert
Sin City
I had a friend that had a Rodeo 4wd and they got her for $450 for just the boots. Now I don't know if 4wd makes it harder or takes longer. I just don't want to pay out the *** to get this done. Thanks for any help
Robert
Sin City
It depends on what you do-->
Replacing the whole axle w/ a rebuilt one is not that hard but just repacking and putting a new boot on is more trouble and VERY MESSY! If your mechanicly inclined, it's not hard. Rebuilt axles are about $150-$200 or so. Replacement boot kits from Nissan are about $50. Napa has them for $25 or so.
If you have a shop put rebuilt axles in, it should only cost about $300 I guess.
If you have a shop put rebuilt axles in, it should only cost about $300 I guess.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 460
boots repair
about 95 bucks in firestone....perside...
nissan charges 150 bucks perside
for a rebuild cva, go with nissan, they charges the same...250 perside
I have never done it myself, you need a good stand or something and definately tools....
I just don't bother getting it done myself, because I don't have complete tools and stuff
by the way...You also need grease!...the special kind that don't melt in the heat
good luck
nissan charges 150 bucks perside
for a rebuild cva, go with nissan, they charges the same...250 perside
I have never done it myself, you need a good stand or something and definately tools....
I just don't bother getting it done myself, because I don't have complete tools and stuff
by the way...You also need grease!...the special kind that don't melt in the heat
good luck
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,601
Originally posted by Gumby510
Has anyone replaced these themselves? How long did it take? Is it a pain in the ***? If you had a shop do them how long did it take and about how much? Mine are both ripped on both sides, but the kit is only 9 bucks a side. Trouble is I dont't want to take it to a shop and get ripped for labor. ... ...
Has anyone replaced these themselves? How long did it take? Is it a pain in the ***? If you had a shop do them how long did it take and about how much? Mine are both ripped on both sides, but the kit is only 9 bucks a side. Trouble is I dont't want to take it to a shop and get ripped for labor. ... ...
one-piece factory style, and the supposedly easy-to-install split boot.
Some shops refuse to install split boots because they aren't durable and a
"come-back" kills the profit in the job.
I used a split boot only once and found it to be a hassle to install. It
didn't really save much time and I won't bother with that kind again.
The labor to install a new unsplit boot is even more than replacing the axle
half-shaft assembly. If your CV joint is worn you may be better off to
replace the half-shaft with a rebuilt unit. That way you get two rebuilt
CV joints with two new rubber boots.
Replacing a boot or a half-shaft may be done by the intermediate home
mechanic. You will need:
- an assortment of ordinary hand tools including socket wrenches.
- a good floor jack and pair of jackstands.
- a socket wrench to fit the big nut on the outboard end of the axle.
- a tool to separate the tie rod end from the steering arm (on some cars).
An inexpensive "pickle fork" tie rod separator will work, but it may tear
the rubber tie-rod boot. There is also an expensive tie rod end tool (it
looks like a gear puller) which won't damage the boot. Some parts
suppliers offer a no-charge loan of special tools when you buy the parts
from them. Ask about that.
Towards the end of the job you will install the large nut on the end of the
axle. The torque spec for this nut is somewhere around 200 foot-lbs. If
you don't have a torque wrench, that's okay. Just make it as tight as you
can, and that's tight enough.
Well to add to these instructions-->
I would highly recommend replacing the output shaft seals on the tranny at the same time. Often when replacing the cv joints will cause the seals to leak. It's ALOT cheaper to replace them when the cvs are aready out.
Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
There are two kinds of replacement Constant Velocity joint boots: the
one-piece factory style, and the supposedly easy-to-install split boot.
Some shops refuse to install split boots because they aren't durable and a
"come-back" kills the profit in the job.
I used a split boot only once and found it to be a hassle to install. It
didn't really save much time and I won't bother with that kind again.
The labor to install a new unsplit boot is even more than replacing the axle
half-shaft assembly. If your CV joint is worn you may be better off to
replace the half-shaft with a rebuilt unit. That way you get two rebuilt
CV joints with two new rubber boots.
Replacing a boot or a half-shaft may be done by the intermediate home
mechanic. You will need:
- an assortment of ordinary hand tools including socket wrenches.
- a good floor jack and pair of jackstands.
- a socket wrench to fit the big nut on the outboard end of the axle.
- a tool to separate the tie rod end from the steering arm (on some cars).
An inexpensive "pickle fork" tie rod separator will work, but it may tear
the rubber tie-rod boot. There is also an expensive tie rod end tool (it
looks like a gear puller) which won't damage the boot. Some parts
suppliers offer a no-charge loan of special tools when you buy the parts
from them. Ask about that.
Towards the end of the job you will install the large nut on the end of the
axle. The torque spec for this nut is somewhere around 200 foot-lbs. If
you don't have a torque wrench, that's okay. Just make it as tight as you
can, and that's tight enough.
Originally posted by Gumby510
Has anyone replaced these themselves? How long did it take? Is it a pain in the ***? If you had a shop do them how long did it take and about how much? Mine are both ripped on both sides, but the kit is only 9 bucks a side. Trouble is I dont't want to take it to a shop and get ripped for labor. ... ...
Has anyone replaced these themselves? How long did it take? Is it a pain in the ***? If you had a shop do them how long did it take and about how much? Mine are both ripped on both sides, but the kit is only 9 bucks a side. Trouble is I dont't want to take it to a shop and get ripped for labor. ... ...
one-piece factory style, and the supposedly easy-to-install split boot.
Some shops refuse to install split boots because they aren't durable and a
"come-back" kills the profit in the job.
I used a split boot only once and found it to be a hassle to install. It
didn't really save much time and I won't bother with that kind again.
The labor to install a new unsplit boot is even more than replacing the axle
half-shaft assembly. If your CV joint is worn you may be better off to
replace the half-shaft with a rebuilt unit. That way you get two rebuilt
CV joints with two new rubber boots.
Replacing a boot or a half-shaft may be done by the intermediate home
mechanic. You will need:
- an assortment of ordinary hand tools including socket wrenches.
- a good floor jack and pair of jackstands.
- a socket wrench to fit the big nut on the outboard end of the axle.
- a tool to separate the tie rod end from the steering arm (on some cars).
An inexpensive "pickle fork" tie rod separator will work, but it may tear
the rubber tie-rod boot. There is also an expensive tie rod end tool (it
looks like a gear puller) which won't damage the boot. Some parts
suppliers offer a no-charge loan of special tools when you buy the parts
from them. Ask about that.
Towards the end of the job you will install the large nut on the end of the
axle. The torque spec for this nut is somewhere around 200 foot-lbs. If
you don't have a torque wrench, that's okay. Just make it as tight as you
can, and that's tight enough.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 222
I called Royal Tranmissions
Well I called Royal and they said its about 70 dollars a side and will take 4 hours to do. I told them I have the kit and they said cool. Thanks for all the replys guys
If you ever come to vegas you have a friend to show you around
Robert
Sin City
If you ever come to vegas you have a friend to show you around
Robert
Sin City
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,601
Re: Well to add to these instructions-->
Originally posted by Jeff92se
I would highly recommend replacing the output shaft seals on the tranny at the same time. Often when replacing the cv joints will cause the seals to leak. It's ALOT cheaper to replace them when the cvs are aready out.
I would highly recommend replacing the output shaft seals on the tranny at the same time. Often when replacing the cv joints will cause the seals to leak. It's ALOT cheaper to replace them when the cvs are aready out.
[Edited by Daniel B. Martin on 10-18-2000 at 09:35 PM]
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 27
Re: Removing the right side halfshaft
Hi Jeff,
I can't get my right side halfshaft out on a Gen 3. Chilton says to pry against the bearing bracket but it's not coming out. Do the three retainer bolts need to come off first?
Thanks
[/QUOTE]
I can't get my right side halfshaft out on a Gen 3. Chilton says to pry against the bearing bracket but it's not coming out. Do the three retainer bolts need to come off first?
Thanks
Originally posted by Jeff92se
I would highly recommend replacing the output shaft seals on the tranny at the same time. Often when replacing the cv joints will cause the seals to leak. It's ALOT cheaper to replace them when the cvs are aready out.
There are two kinds of replacement Constant Velocity joint boots: the
one-piece factory style, and the supposedly easy-to-install split boot.
Some shops refuse to install split boots because they aren't durable and a
"come-back" kills the profit in the job.
I used a split boot only once and found it to be a hassle to install. It
didn't really save much time and I won't bother with that kind again.
The labor to install a new unsplit boot is even more than replacing the axle
half-shaft assembly. If your CV joint is worn you may be better off to
replace the half-shaft with a rebuilt unit. That way you get two rebuilt
CV joints with two new rubber boots.
Replacing a boot or a half-shaft may be done by the intermediate home
mechanic. You will need:
- an assortment of ordinary hand tools including socket wrenches.
- a good floor jack and pair of jackstands.
- a socket wrench to fit the big nut on the outboard end of the axle.
- a tool to separate the tie rod end from the steering arm (on some cars).
An inexpensive "pickle fork" tie rod separator will work, but it may tear
the rubber tie-rod boot. There is also an expensive tie rod end tool (it
looks like a gear puller) which won't damage the boot. Some parts
suppliers offer a no-charge loan of special tools when you buy the parts
from them. Ask about that.
Towards the end of the job you will install the large nut on the end of the
axle. The torque spec for this nut is somewhere around 200 foot-lbs. If
you don't have a torque wrench, that's okay. Just make it as tight as you
can, and that's tight enough.
[/I]
I would highly recommend replacing the output shaft seals on the tranny at the same time. Often when replacing the cv joints will cause the seals to leak. It's ALOT cheaper to replace them when the cvs are aready out.
There are two kinds of replacement Constant Velocity joint boots: the
one-piece factory style, and the supposedly easy-to-install split boot.
Some shops refuse to install split boots because they aren't durable and a
"come-back" kills the profit in the job.
I used a split boot only once and found it to be a hassle to install. It
didn't really save much time and I won't bother with that kind again.
The labor to install a new unsplit boot is even more than replacing the axle
half-shaft assembly. If your CV joint is worn you may be better off to
replace the half-shaft with a rebuilt unit. That way you get two rebuilt
CV joints with two new rubber boots.
Replacing a boot or a half-shaft may be done by the intermediate home
mechanic. You will need:
- an assortment of ordinary hand tools including socket wrenches.
- a good floor jack and pair of jackstands.
- a socket wrench to fit the big nut on the outboard end of the axle.
- a tool to separate the tie rod end from the steering arm (on some cars).
An inexpensive "pickle fork" tie rod separator will work, but it may tear
the rubber tie-rod boot. There is also an expensive tie rod end tool (it
looks like a gear puller) which won't damage the boot. Some parts
suppliers offer a no-charge loan of special tools when you buy the parts
from them. Ask about that.
Towards the end of the job you will install the large nut on the end of the
axle. The torque spec for this nut is somewhere around 200 foot-lbs. If
you don't have a torque wrench, that's okay. Just make it as tight as you
can, and that's tight enough.
[/I]
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 27
Removing the R/S halfshaft
Hi Daniel,
I can't get my right side halfshaft out on a Gen 3. Chilton says to pry against the bearing bracket but it's not coming out. Do the three retainer bolts need to come off first or should I pry harder?
Thanks
I can't get my right side halfshaft out on a Gen 3. Chilton says to pry against the bearing bracket but it's not coming out. Do the three retainer bolts need to come off first or should I pry harder?
Thanks
Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
There are two kinds of replacement Constant Velocity joint boots: the
one-piece factory style, and the supposedly easy-to-install split boot.
Some shops refuse to install split boots because they aren't durable and a
"come-back" kills the profit in the job.
I used a split boot only once and found it to be a hassle to install. It
didn't really save much time and I won't bother with that kind again.
The labor to install a new unsplit boot is even more than replacing the axle
half-shaft assembly. If your CV joint is worn you may be better off to
replace the half-shaft with a rebuilt unit. That way you get two rebuilt
CV joints with two new rubber boots.
Replacing a boot or a half-shaft may be done by the intermediate home
mechanic. You will need:
- an assortment of ordinary hand tools including socket wrenches.
- a good floor jack and pair of jackstands.
- a socket wrench to fit the big nut on the outboard end of the axle.
- a tool to separate the tie rod end from the steering arm (on some cars).
An inexpensive "pickle fork" tie rod separator will work, but it may tear
the rubber tie-rod boot. There is also an expensive tie rod end tool (it
looks like a gear puller) which won't damage the boot. Some parts
suppliers offer a no-charge loan of special tools when you buy the parts
from them. Ask about that.
Towards the end of the job you will install the large nut on the end of the
axle. The torque spec for this nut is somewhere around 200 foot-lbs. If
you don't have a torque wrench, that's okay. Just make it as tight as you
can, and that's tight enough.
There are two kinds of replacement Constant Velocity joint boots: the
one-piece factory style, and the supposedly easy-to-install split boot.
Some shops refuse to install split boots because they aren't durable and a
"come-back" kills the profit in the job.
I used a split boot only once and found it to be a hassle to install. It
didn't really save much time and I won't bother with that kind again.
The labor to install a new unsplit boot is even more than replacing the axle
half-shaft assembly. If your CV joint is worn you may be better off to
replace the half-shaft with a rebuilt unit. That way you get two rebuilt
CV joints with two new rubber boots.
Replacing a boot or a half-shaft may be done by the intermediate home
mechanic. You will need:
- an assortment of ordinary hand tools including socket wrenches.
- a good floor jack and pair of jackstands.
- a socket wrench to fit the big nut on the outboard end of the axle.
- a tool to separate the tie rod end from the steering arm (on some cars).
An inexpensive "pickle fork" tie rod separator will work, but it may tear
the rubber tie-rod boot. There is also an expensive tie rod end tool (it
looks like a gear puller) which won't damage the boot. Some parts
suppliers offer a no-charge loan of special tools when you buy the parts
from them. Ask about that.
Towards the end of the job you will install the large nut on the end of the
axle. The torque spec for this nut is somewhere around 200 foot-lbs. If
you don't have a torque wrench, that's okay. Just make it as tight as you
can, and that's tight enough.
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