NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
 

Since people with less than 15 posts cannot start their own thread, but MIGHT have a legitimate question, I am opening another thread for noobie questions.

First off, I will answer a few general questions:

Q: Why can't I start a new thread?
A: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=413179

Q: Why can't I search maxima.org?
A: You can't see the search button dummy.

With that out of the way...

This thread is for the new members so that they are able to post a LEGITIMATE question. It can be ANYTHING that is 4th generation related and NOT covered in the existing sticky threads. If we think it is important, we will either answer or make it into its own thread. If not, I will delete it.

This is only for LEGIT 4th Gen questions that may be specific to one user.

SPAM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.

This is for noobs only and will be open only as long as I feel like maintaining it.

ALL RESPONSES MUST BE A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION!
New questions, obviously, need not have any quotes.

Postwhoring will not be tolerated!
-If you get an answer to your question, please move along.
-If you have a followup, by all means, post it.
-No posts to say "Thanks!" (We don't need 10,000 posts thanking someone for helping them out.)
-No posting "I want to know that, too."
-Incorrect answers or answers that are just plain annoying will be removed.

All of these will be deleted. If it gets bad enough, I will just ban you.

Here are some links that will also be helpful:
4th gen FAQs (READ ME! PLEASE! READ ME!):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=72447

If you are having mechanical problems (INCLUDING a "Check Engine" light), this thread is a GREAT place to start:
http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=512892

All other sticky threads have answers to common questions, information about common modifications, and other generally good info. I took a week and re-organized it. I did not do this for my own benefit- I don't even OWN a 4th gen.

One more reminder: THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR SEARCHING!!!

Hey pat, I know this may not be needed but I figured I'd ask before the thread takes off. You can delete this post afterwards if you'd like as well. I was thinking that a lot of the new guys come in and start posting answers to past questions and give incorrect info just to get the 15 posts up. Just thought you could mention something about it in the rules so we don't have to deal with it. Just an idea. Good looking out on the new thread tho.

orientation of spring on shcoks and struts
 

Alright, I just had a Tokico HP Struts and Shocks and Springs kit installed on my car. (My car is a 96 Nissan Maxima SE 5 spd.) I watched the mechanic do the job. The springs for both the shocks and struts are more closer together from one side and farther apart on the other. On the back shocks, the mechanic put the side of the spring that is closer together up. I called a friend and made sure that was right. On the front though, he put the the side of the spring that are closer together on the bottom. I thought this was wrong and i bugged him about it. He said thats the way its supposed to be. Drove it home and seems to be driving fine but when I crank the steering wheel all the way or alot to the to left or to the right, I hear some noise coming from the front. Im wondering if i should go back to him and tell him to reverse the springs or does it just need to settle. This is the link to the exact parts I bought if it helps any: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOKIC...spagenameZWDVW . Please help.
Thanks

edit: Just looked at the link. I believe they are in correctly since they are only tokico springs. the tight part should have be on the bottom. With after market springs that lower, the tighter area goes up top.

no, no, no! those springs do lower the car, 1.4 front, 1.25 rear. So the last part of what cdg2125 said is correct. they are progressive rate springs, meaning the tight part compresses after the wide part. the tight part should face UP on the front and the rear. I just installed that exact same kit this weekend. I have no noises whatsoever, everything is riding great. Here's what you can show your mechanic - point out to him that the words "tokico" in white stamped across the spring should be upright. If the installed the springs with the tight part on the bottom, then "tokico" will be upside down. Take your car back to him and have him do it properly ASAP!!

What springs would people recommend for the gr-2? I want to lower my ride height (1 or 1.5 inches) without too much harshness. Thanks in advance.

clearing codes
 

the stickies say how to find out what the trouble codes are. but i didn't see anything about clearing them. is there a special way the codes need to be cleared, maybe by the dealer only?
i've been having some trouble with my car. i had the transmission rebuilt. after driving it for a day the engine light came back on with the same transmission code. i called the shop & they said it could be that they weren't able to 'fully clear the code'. i will be taking the car in on monday to get looked at. i'm just wondering if the problem wasn't fixed or if their equipment is really not able to clear out the code. thanks
nicki

Well tokicos blues are not really designed for lowering. They are stock comparisons. On the springs, the tokico signature should be readable. Make him fix it.

In this kit, they are also paired with an oem replacement strut. What I was referring to is that the tokico combo of blues are considered more of an oem replacment. The springs can be paired with others such as Illuminas to make them more of a lowering combo yes. But I meant the combo itself. Tokico Blue combo is considered OEM replacement.

Getting it fixed is the most important part.

Well if they don't then go to autozone and have them clear the code.

? Read the first sentence in the link:

TOKICO HP BLUE STRUTS/SHOCKS and 4( 2 front , 2 rear ) High performance Tokico lowering springs, with a 1.25 inch drop front and back, TO FIT 1995 to 3/1999 Nissan Maxima all models .

The picture is not accurate, that is not how the actual springs look. They are lowering springs. I just installed that exact same kit this past weekend.

Tokico HP struts and shocks can be considered an OEM replacement, but the springs are not an OEM replacement. We were talking about the springs, not the struts. Didn't look like you were talking about the "tokico combo of blues" when you wrote "Well tokicos are not really lowering springs. They are stock comparison..."

But anyway, I don't really care what you were saying, I just wanted to make sure that the OP gets the correct information and returns to his mechanic ASAP to do the job properly. That's all that matters.

springs= maxspeed, if you want to go only that much of a drop. i have them and like them.

I recommend Tein H-Tech springs for that drop. I have had them on my own car and found them to be the perfect spring for the A32.

quick question,whats the best strut/shock and spring combo for the lowest drop? i'll still be on stock 97 5spokes so i wanna go as low as i can(i hate wheel gap)

to clear the code: It is in the stickies just a link to another location that has the info but here it is:

1. Turn the selector screw clockwise to its stop.
2. Wait 2 seconds.
3. Return back by turning the screw counterclockwise to its stop.
4. IMMEDIATELY REPEAT steps 1 to 3.

coilovers. go to the suspension sticky for more info.

where can i get a good price on a vq35de engine with a 6mt. any info would be helpful

ok i have a quick question ok i got a free used amp with a set of 15inch subs i bought from a friend and it doesn't work the power light comes one with i have it wired up but no sound comes out when i have a speaker wired up to it and i know the wires from the head unit are wired correctly so is there any way i can fix it

i know the subs work i tested them with a 500watt bazuka amp

car-parts.com

1st page baybee.

Ever consider that it was free? The amp/subs/both are probably blown.

if they work and you're not getting sound then you do not have them hooked up correctly

I know this could be considered as a silly question...

But I'm quite annoyed at the fact that my wipers always leave a trail of water after a wipe. They were just recently replaced (Bosch) and the car was cleaned very recently... is there anything I can do about this? Maybe there's a particular brand of wipers....? I can't come up with any other factors besides cleaniness and brand of wipers.

I already use Rain-X on my windshield, and even on all the other glass around the car.

get better wipers and use rain-x on the windshield

:sprint: and :sprint:

The Bosch wipers are not very good. That might be part of your problem. If your local store has Rain-X wipers, just take the Bosch's as a loss and pick up a set of the rain-x ones, while you're buying the rain-x to use on the windshield. I replaced my Bosch blades w/ Rain-X blades and haven't looked back since.

Where is the Camshaft Position Sensor on 95 5-Speed.

On the timing cover, a few inches to the right of the passanger side engine mount.

Try stripping the windshield with a glass stripper, then re-apply the rain-X. I have found that over time it can get really streaky if you don't strip off the old.

I have never had problems with Bosch wipers, but the Rain-X wipers are really good. I have also used tripledge wipers with great success.

ok so i found some pretty reasonably priced vq35de, i just had acouple more questions. when i buy the engine/trans, will i get all the parts i need, or do i need to buy other parts for the swap. if anybody has done this swap, about how much did u end up spending in total for the swap. anybody know of a place in the New England area who does this swap?I go to UTI in norwood, MA so i might be able to do it there, but if i can get it done for a reasonable price, id rather do that. thanks alot

You will need additional parts for the swap.

http://forums.nycmaximas.org/showthread.php?t=19270

That should help you immensely.

95 Maxima Keyless Entry & Power Windows Stopped Working
 

1995 Nissan Maxima

Nothing of note has occurred, but a few days ago I go out to my car as usual and hit the unlock button on the keyless entry and it doesnt work. I assume the battery has probably died in the remote and proceed to unlock the car with the key. It starts up fine and I go to power the windows down and nothing happens. I figure that one of the fuses must have gone out. So later I swap the fuses with ones in components that I know to be working on the car, to ensure that this test remains accurate, and still neither the keyless entry nor the windows will work.

Another odd thing that I noticed not but a day afterward is that the first speed of the windshield wipers does not work, but if I toggle it to the next higher speed(s) it works fine.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

You need a new Body Control Module (BCM). Sounds like it anyhow. Does your rear defogger light up? If not, that seals it.

CEL bulb
 

sorry for the dumb question but could somebody let me know what the wattage for the fault lights on the dashboard. when i turn on my car, my SRS light, brake light, open door light, and all other warning lights turn on except my CEL. does this sound light the bulb is just burnt out? thanks
:bawling:

Dude Thanks for the help. From the top of the engine? Or from down under, A picture would be great.

I have owned a number of 3rd gens and currently own a vg5, which is a bit slow but very clean and reliable. I am looking at a '95 SE 5spd that needs work, I believe the current owner hit a pothole at a pretty high speed or maybe went over a median and bent a wheel, knocked it out of alignment and even blew both airbags. The car has 210k on it and is otherwise pretty clean. He is pretty firm on $1k and claims he will have the front suspension work taken care of and aligned at the shop he works at. I am thinking of picking it up and just removing the airbags and putting new covers on it. There is no inspection here and I have no intention of reselling it. Is it worth messing with and do you think the asking price is reasonable? I like the color combo and can fix it myself....

Squeal from the engine bay.
 

Sunday morning I went out to start the max and to my suprise there was a high pitch squeal. I let it warm up and it never went away. When I put it in reverse and accelerated backwards it got louder. Could it be my accessory belt or possibly the alternator? Ive got a 97 GLE with 115k miles.

ok im sure this question has been asked but i cant find an answer so ill just ask anyways. warpspeed pretty much has a full 2.5" exhuast kit(minus the headers) , has anybody gotten this entire kit? how does it sound? i looked into the 3.5 swap and right now its not in my plans(need the max daily for school). so i was looking into exhuast or maybe an ECU upgrade from JWT. any better suggestions for an upgrade would be appreciated.

there are a lot of mods to do. start searching here:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=517416

I believe i have the same thing. I got a 96 se but I dont think that changes anything. It is whenever I start it up but then it goes goes away.

Did you guys check the belts at all? If you think it's the belts then check them and see if they are lose. Post results.