I dont see it anywhere in the how-to's but do i need a pilot bearing for any reason?

ALSO. Nobody could ever clarify how to wire up the clutch switch. There are indeed 2 switches on the clutch and only 2 wires coming from the harness i am cutting off. That means one switch wont be used. Does one switch double as the safety-start feature AND work for cruise control? cause 'im about to just wire up one switch (the bottom switch) but i fail to see how cruise control would work if i had to press the clutch all the way in before CC would disengage.
unless thats how its supposed to be.

 

You don't need a pilot bearing.

The switch behind the pedal is the switch to start the car, which is connected to the park/neutral circuit. The switch before the pedal is used to cancel the cruise control, which is to be hooked up with the cruise cancel switch on the brake pedal.

 

oh so i just tap the lines on the brake pedal CC switch?

thank you very much!

 

i have another question(s)

The how to says to plug in any plugs that plug into the manual tranny...well there are basically none, but 3 plugs coming off the tranny. I'm not missing anything here am i? do these things just simply not get plugged in?

 

One of those 3 is for the vss, with tranny installed it's the one way to the back down by the rear header, you must find where it goes into your auto wiring harness, it plugs in SOMEWHERE or else you'll have no speedo, the other one is for the reverse/nuetral (you know what to do with that one though I think right?) and the third is just a ground wire, ground it wherever is clever.

 

how much is a 5spd tranny?

 

wait...i'm talkin about coming off of the transmission, not the auto harness. because i couldnt really find any plugs from the harness coming from the car to plug into the transmission.

i know one of the plugs coming from the harness (i think its big and brownish red) has to be cut off and wired up to the clutch. (at least i think i'm right). what ground wire are you talkin about?

 

I am talking about the trannsmision also, the ground wire isn't nescassary, but if you're tranny has it it runs from a tab on a trannsmission case bolt. Yes, you are correct about the plug that has to be cut and wired, but there IS one of the connectors from the manual tranny that plugs into the auto harness, it's for the vss, keep looking I will try to take pics.

 

how do you you get rid of the p/n switch code?

 

thanks 350, im gonna go look right now. i think i just havent looked hard enough.
but the other 2 plugs can be left not plugged in on the tranny..cool

 

Well I've been told that using a 5-speed ecu get's rid of that code, then I was told that was wrong so you have to live with it unless you want to swap the entire 5-speed harness, lol, so to answer your question I really don't know.

Chillen, you're lucky, I REALLY didn't feel like taking this pic for you........ This is on a stock 5-speed '97 max, the two-prong connector is for the vss and you can't tell from the pic but it meets up with another grey connector and goes to the big front injector harness, follow the front injector harness......

 

haha you really didnt feel like it. well thanks man im goin to look

 

weird...i couldnt find it. the only plug i see that looks like that is actually part of the fuse box harness which on the end of it has the positive terminal for the battery.
anyway i will look more tomorrow when i have time.
another question i have is. can i leave the ports on the radiator open that used to flow the tranny fluid through it? or do i need to cap those off now or whats with that.

 

Ive used about 4 different 5speed ECUs over the years and always had the park/neutral code.

 

yeah keep looking, it's got to be there unless you snipped it when you pulled the auto, if it's holding you up from driving your car with the 5mt don't sweat it, you can drive without it. Yeah just ignore the tranny lines on the auto radiatior, no need to cap them or anything. Good to know definitivly about the p/n code, thanks

 

alright thank you very much

 

i heard in the wind that you can ground a wire that will eliminate the p/n code. anyone know anything of this?

 

my questions are done, feel free to hijack my thread.

 

my bad.

 

np. actually im trying to replace my axle seals and i didnt realize they were in there so hard..the passenger side is hard to get to :-/ ima have to man handle this thang.

 

i finished my swap today, everything seems okay. a couple last questions and comments i have.
1) when the fluid starts pouring out of the axle holes the tranny is full right? i thought i drained it all the way but by the time i poured in the 4th qt i looked under there and it was just draining out of the axle holes.
2)my transmission has a pretty good whine to it in reverse, is this semi-normal..i know its an old tranny.

i tried replacing my axle seals, the new ones i bought were metal on the ends and were ****ing impossible to get in there. I ended up destroying them just trying to tap them in there. The old ones were all plastic and went back into place smoothly...i wish i had never tried to change them when they werent bad in the first place. 16 dollars wasted.

the shifter feels a little knotchy but i dont want to be too picky, it is sometimes hard to get it into reverse. theres some significant clankin goin on under there when i am shiftin gears at a stop...figured it was normal though.

very fun to drive!

 

all the above seems normal. now learn how to drive it an have fun.

oh...lift up on the clutch pedal a little bit to get it into reverse

 

I also forgot to add that when I received my axles the box for the passenger side was completely fubared and I noticed a small ring in the end of the pass. Axle where it goes into the tranny, it was bent though and it came off pretty easily so I just took it off.
This isn't some kinda vital axle seal piece is it? Never seen one before but couldn't figure out why itd be on there in the first place...

 

yes, I'd say that little snap ring is vital.... better go find it, tweak it, and pop it back in.

 

edit- looked at the FSM what im talking about is actually just a dust shield, i dont think its super important, i might pop it back on if i have to take the axle off for some reason soon.

 

Nothing should be spilling out the axle holes(seals). Basically when you are filling a manual tranny, you keep filling the fluid through the filler hole (the hole that has the 1/2" ratchet screw plug) and keep filling until it starts to overflow out of that filler hole. Then plug it back up and clean the tranny off and watch for leaks. Nothing should be leaking anywhere.

 

Interesting. Do you know any further info? Maybe there is hope.

 

i wish. let me dig around some more. ill make a new thread about it.

 

damn chillin so your 5spd now too??

Hot damn! the progress you've made!

make sure the axle seal is on tight, use a 36mm socket to help seat it right.
reverse gear whine is normal.

enjoy the new hotness

 

i pressed the seal in there as far as it could go. Im still pissed i couldnt use brand new ones which i decided to put the extra $ in for.

thanks Mdeezy..i try to keep it bAaAallllin. why did i ever want to keep the auto..somebody tell me. This **** is just way too much fun. The auto is like handicapping the motor....I was blown away today when i did a WOT 3rd gear pull from 3k to 6k. jesus christ...

sometimes 2nd gear feels shakey..like a vibration..but it could be my alignment i donno...

 

Holy crap! man I totally missed post #21 and only saw #23.............

Shifting problems.....ummmmm, possibly low on fluid, (also be careful not to overtighten the shift-rod, it just needs to be very lightly snugged up) fix that seal ASAP, fluid should NOT be coming out of the axle's, I'm going to take a geuss that you drove it in too far (been there, done that) you want to get it flush with the trans, it's easy to drive it in too far and then the seal makes contact with the moving differential or bearing and it gets torn to shreds. If it makes you feel any better, here's a little story...... I'm PISSED right now. Just finished rebuilding a trannsmission on a customers car and sure enough, I get to that last quart of gl-4 and it starts leaking out of the passanger axle seal!!!! not sure whether the new seal didn't seat right going in or if I knicked it while putting in the passanger side axle, either way it blows since the car is lowered plus stillen lip=20 minutes just to get the thing on jackstands, arrrrgh, and on top of all the extra labor iI have to do, which sucks because I way undercharged him for the entire job but I have to also buy another seal at my expense.....

 

No, when i was filling the transmission fluid, i did not have the axles in yet. The fsm says to check the fluid level by putting your finger in the axle holes and see if you touch like the surface of a puddle. I definently did push the seal in there as far as it would go though. I couldnt remember how far it was originall in there, plus, someone else told me to push it in far?
which shifter rod are you saying should not be overtightened? The one where the bushing is? Or the bolt that connects through on the transmission control "fork". I am pretty sure i have enough fluid in there, i thought it was just the age of the tranny that made it feel like that. I dont plan on having this tranny forever, it only cost me 300 dollars with some other things as well. I'd rebuild it but that looks intimidating to me at the moment. i'm always up for a challenge though.

The whole axle seal thing pissed me off. A friend at nissan said to just replace them while its easy to do so and they "pop right in". MY AS$ they pop right in, it was like putting a square peg in a circular hole.

i think the passenger side axle seal is leaking a little bit....f*ck

edit- i feel ya on undercharging and eating the costs...i've been selling stuff online and am now realizing that shipping needs to be at the buyers expense....

 

yes I'm talking about the one that bolts to the control rod forks with the swivels on it, I always take them apart, clean and grease them as well, but yeah just very lightly snugged up, if you overtighten it the metal will bend in and make shifting a bit difficult.