knock sensor
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,389
if u put this flex socet on and put the extention as far up as possible (rubbing) in the manifold it will work, mine didnt want to turn cause i got cheap tools from wal-mart, but it still worked, just gota get the feel for the turning angle
Originally Posted by andrei3333
if u put this flex socet on and put the extention as far up as possible (rubbing) in the manifold it will work, mine didnt want to turn cause i got cheap tools from wal-mart, but it still worked, just gota get the feel for the turning angle
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,389
No its not gona make ur car explode, its juts gona use more gas slightly and leave more carbon deposits on ur injectors which may clog in the far far future.
since its not running its 100% timing gas doesnt fully burn off and u run rich which wastes gas regardless of octane you are using. but the difference can be felt mostly in the top end (~3-4K rpm and above) even if that, so u r ok driving with a broken KS.
since its not running its 100% timing gas doesnt fully burn off and u run rich which wastes gas regardless of octane you are using. but the difference can be felt mostly in the top end (~3-4K rpm and above) even if that, so u r ok driving with a broken KS.
Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 54
Thanks a lot. I'm really pissed off because I had gotten three codes from my test, 03 04, 07 04, and 02 15. The place I usually go to said its gonna cost $410 to do it, so Im gonna do that by myself when I have the chance and Im gonna call my mech shortly about the ECSPS. I have no clue what a 02 15 is because it shows up Undefined on the list.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 4
I bought all the tools I could possibly get my hands on, no chance. The access is blocked by a maze of pipings (cali-spec or what?). My ratchet doesn't even get one click in that tight space. No removal. (I know how easy it may sound to those who has a more cooperative car)
A local mech quoted a 3 hour job and then hung up on me (literally) after I questioned the quote.
Local Nissan dealer asked for $175 labor only.
Anybody knows another place on the engine block that the KS could be installed?
Anybody knows somebody near Seattle, WA?
A local mech quoted a 3 hour job and then hung up on me (literally) after I questioned the quote.
Local Nissan dealer asked for $175 labor only.
Anybody knows another place on the engine block that the KS could be installed?
Anybody knows somebody near Seattle, WA?
Originally Posted by goldfish914
i just replaced mine at 80k. its real easy to get to if you pull back the mud shield on your passenger tire. its held in by two bolts. my price was also about 120 their damn expensive. sometimes going 2 autozone or like a napa can get u a better price than online...
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 4
I changed it yesterday on my possibly "cali spec" car, only after so many attempts...
My expensive long ratchet with universal joint doesn't work, because the whole thing has like 5 deg of free move and will never loosen, or tighten, the bolt. Unless you have one of those geared ones where you can crank the socket using a handle at the end, without actually moving the handle.
In the end I used a short (5-6") wrench, positioned it in the cavity with a pair of pliers. Put a stick in and pry the wrench to loosen the bolt. (2 minutes)
It is unfortunate that in the end I had to fit my hand inside the cavity. It is possible that bigger hand simply will not work. I opened my hands to slide in, once in, closed my hand into a lose fist, I found a pocket of space deeper inside. Unscrewed the bolt out by hand.
For putting it back in, I did employed the help of a magnetic picker-upper. It was kinda stupid cause it won't let go of the bolt once I placed it in position. I was kinda stupid. Threaded the bolt in by hand. Used to plier-wrench-stick combo to tighten it.
Concerning the CODES:
I bought an scanner adapter earlier and I had a single code pointing to the knock sensor, no accompanying warnings. I took the old KS out, measured with an ohmmeter, reads zip, likely means somewhere in there something was severed. Put the new one in, reset ECU, no code. Drove around, no code. The fault was correctly resolved.
Concerning performance changes:
Didn't notice anything, but I did logged a few data points with the ODB scanner. Timing definitely showed difference. Here are the data files. Save them as .txt. Import with Excel, comma delimited. I use the "better gas".
before KS change:
http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dfp3v4rw_0dcppn3
after KS change:
http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dfp3v4rw_1gw23dd
My expensive long ratchet with universal joint doesn't work, because the whole thing has like 5 deg of free move and will never loosen, or tighten, the bolt. Unless you have one of those geared ones where you can crank the socket using a handle at the end, without actually moving the handle.
In the end I used a short (5-6") wrench, positioned it in the cavity with a pair of pliers. Put a stick in and pry the wrench to loosen the bolt. (2 minutes)
It is unfortunate that in the end I had to fit my hand inside the cavity. It is possible that bigger hand simply will not work. I opened my hands to slide in, once in, closed my hand into a lose fist, I found a pocket of space deeper inside. Unscrewed the bolt out by hand.
For putting it back in, I did employed the help of a magnetic picker-upper. It was kinda stupid cause it won't let go of the bolt once I placed it in position. I was kinda stupid. Threaded the bolt in by hand. Used to plier-wrench-stick combo to tighten it.
Concerning the CODES:
I bought an scanner adapter earlier and I had a single code pointing to the knock sensor, no accompanying warnings. I took the old KS out, measured with an ohmmeter, reads zip, likely means somewhere in there something was severed. Put the new one in, reset ECU, no code. Drove around, no code. The fault was correctly resolved.
Concerning performance changes:
Didn't notice anything, but I did logged a few data points with the ODB scanner. Timing definitely showed difference. Here are the data files. Save them as .txt. Import with Excel, comma delimited. I use the "better gas".
before KS change:
http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dfp3v4rw_0dcppn3
after KS change:
http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dfp3v4rw_1gw23dd
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
my03maxima
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
9
Jul 28, 2024 07:40 AM
Kyle Lee Cleveland
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
1
Sep 28, 2015 09:01 PM
DC_Juggernaut
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
4
Sep 28, 2015 04:07 PM