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which brake pad?

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Old Jul 15, 2001 | 03:04 AM
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Without changing rotors and calipers, which pad would you use? or stick with the Nissan? Thanks.
Old Jul 15, 2001 | 11:38 AM
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Originally posted by max808
Without changing rotors and calipers, which pad would you use? or stick with the Nissan? Thanks.
Many owners say that only Nissan factory brake pads can be trusted to be completely silent. However, I have had good results with name-brand replacement pads (Raybestos, etc.). It's a good idea to use Blue Goo anti-squeal compound (or an equivalent product) regardless of which brand of pad you use. Be sure to re-install the thin metal shims.
Old Jul 15, 2001 | 01:52 PM
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Originally posted by max808
Without changing rotors and calipers, which pad would you use? or stick with the Nissan? Thanks.
i'm using axxis metalmasters rite now i've had a lot of success with it so far.
Old Jul 16, 2001 | 01:12 AM
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Just pad?

Can you get away with changing only the pads or is it recommended to change shims, retainer and anti-rattle springs at the same time?

Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
Many owners say that only Nissan factory brake pads can be trusted to be completely silent. However, I have had good results with name-brand replacement pads (Raybestos, etc.). It's a good idea to use Blue Goo anti-squeal compound (or an equivalent product) regardless of which brand of pad you use. Be sure to re-install the thin metal shims.
Old Jul 16, 2001 | 07:07 AM
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You can re-use the existing hardware. I always turn the rotors when I install new pads so that they will have a fresh surface to break in on.
Old Jul 16, 2001 | 07:23 AM
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Re: Just pad?

Originally posted by max808
Can you get away with changing only the pads or is it recommended to change shims, retainer and anti-rattle springs at the same time?
This subject is in the realm of opinion rather than fact. Some owners insist that you must resurface rotors and must replace brake hardware with every pad change. I take the opposite view. I don't like to do unnecessary work. I don't like to replace perfectly good parts. If the rotors are not badly scored I reuse them as is. If the shims and related hardware have not been mangled I reuse them as is.

This is my personal shop practice. I'm not preaching about what others should do. You should make your own decision based on the condition of your brakes and the balance in your checking account.
Old Jul 17, 2001 | 01:37 AM
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Re: Re: Just pad?

If your rotor looks fine, will it wear the pad faster than if you resurfaced?

Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
This subject is in the realm of opinion rather than fact. Some owners insist that you must resurface rotors and must replace brake hardware with every pad change. I take the opposite view. I don't like to do unnecessary work. I don't like to replace perfectly good parts. If the rotors are not badly scored I reuse them as is. If the shims and related hardware have not been mangled I reuse them as is.

This is my personal shop practice. I'm not preaching about what others should do. You should make your own decision based on the condition of your brakes and the balance in your checking account.
Old Jul 17, 2001 | 04:37 AM
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Re: Re: Re: Just pad?

Originally posted by max808
If your rotor looks fine, will it wear the pad faster than if you resurfaced?

No.
Old Jul 18, 2001 | 01:06 AM
  #9  
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warped roter?

I occasionally get slight steering vibration when braking at high speeds (40-60mph). It doesn't always happen, never at low speeds (<40mph). I thought if a rotor was warped it would vibrate at any speed. Does this sound like a warped rotor? Maybe my tires? or alignment? Thanks.
Old Jul 18, 2001 | 04:28 AM
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Re: warped roter?

Originally posted by max808
I occasionally get slight steering vibration when braking at high speeds (40-60mph). It doesn't always happen, never at low speeds (<40mph). I thought if a rotor was warped it would vibrate at any speed. Does this sound like a warped rotor? Maybe my tires? or alignment? Thanks.
Intermittent problems are among the most difficult to diagnose and correct. I'd guess it is a combination of factors: a tire which is slightly out of round, a wheel which is slightly bent, ball joints and tie rod ends which are slightly worn.

You could rotate your tires, exchanging fronts and rears. If the symptom vanishes you know it was caused by tires and/or wheels.
Old Jul 18, 2001 | 05:09 PM
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Pads

I just switch to Porterfields in the front only. They make a big difference in braking. Much more bite. They dust about the same as OEM's. I'd recommend them. Do a search on them and see what others thought.

I agree with DBM about unnecessary part replacement. I've never experienced anything negative as a result.

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