Changed KS and cleaned TB and IACV in one shot
06-09-2007, 02:13 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,391
Changed KS and cleaned TB and IACV in one shot
Everything went well. It was the first time for me to do all this. from start to finish with a lunch break took me 5 hours. but hey i took my time and cleaned stuff really well. The hole where the EGR tube comes out to the plenium had some serious debris blocking thr passage, nothing an old coat hanger cant take care of. i do assume that in the future i will be forced to take the EGR tube off and clean it thoroughly.
The TB: did this first. no problems taking anything off. the car stood overnight and i worked on it cold in the morning. The 3 hoses on the bottom of the TB were kinda hard to get off, but i used the flat head to pry them off. Very little collant dripped out so no need to top off even.
The KS: this was the scariest part. i basically could not get my hand in there whatsoever. I did unplug the little green connector right at the valley entrance, but that still did not let me get my hand in there. Anyhow, i used a set of extensions and a u-joint with a 12mm head to unscrew it, and basically let my mom's gentle little hands take care of the rest. She got it out, i replaced it, and she put it back in and threaded the bolt. I hand tightened it to approximately 1/4 turn.
The IACV: this was pretty easy, unplugged 4 connectors, but the rear one (i think its the EGR temp sensor) i did basically with my eyes closed, its right in front of the firewall and its the only sensor not directly attached to the IACV. putting that bolt was slightly a pain, but i managed.
new gaskets all around, to those who complain of problems, REPLACE the iacv METAL gasket and the TB paper gasket. the metal once SEEMS fine and can be reused, but the grooves on the gasket get squished when u tighten the IACV to the plenium, and thats what doesnt allow any air to seep through.
The idle used to be 550 in D hot no load, not its at 675 approximately in D and 900 or so in P, i will drive around for a few days and see of that changes, otherwise i may have to adjust the idle screw on the IACV.
will post pictures as soon as i get my self out of the shower
The TB: did this first. no problems taking anything off. the car stood overnight and i worked on it cold in the morning. The 3 hoses on the bottom of the TB were kinda hard to get off, but i used the flat head to pry them off. Very little collant dripped out so no need to top off even.
The KS: this was the scariest part. i basically could not get my hand in there whatsoever. I did unplug the little green connector right at the valley entrance, but that still did not let me get my hand in there. Anyhow, i used a set of extensions and a u-joint with a 12mm head to unscrew it, and basically let my mom's gentle little hands take care of the rest. She got it out, i replaced it, and she put it back in and threaded the bolt. I hand tightened it to approximately 1/4 turn.
The IACV: this was pretty easy, unplugged 4 connectors, but the rear one (i think its the EGR temp sensor) i did basically with my eyes closed, its right in front of the firewall and its the only sensor not directly attached to the IACV. putting that bolt was slightly a pain, but i managed.
new gaskets all around, to those who complain of problems, REPLACE the iacv METAL gasket and the TB paper gasket. the metal once SEEMS fine and can be reused, but the grooves on the gasket get squished when u tighten the IACV to the plenium, and thats what doesnt allow any air to seep through.
The idle used to be 550 in D hot no load, not its at 675 approximately in D and 900 or so in P, i will drive around for a few days and see of that changes, otherwise i may have to adjust the idle screw on the IACV.
will post pictures as soon as i get my self out of the shower
06-09-2007, 05:21 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,391
pictures of new gaskets and spray cans here http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=524520
here is what i did today:
here is what i did today:
06-09-2007, 05:28 PM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,391
basically right now i will not tell u all what i think because with the reset ecu it will take about a tank full of gas (91 this time around) for the ecu to adjust (at least thats what the people on here say - but i have auto so that may not be so). I also want to let the idle settle down, if it doesnt in a week then i will adjust it via the idle screw.
let u all know in some time what i think of this KS "myth"
let u all know in some time what i think of this KS "myth"
06-10-2007, 10:06 AM
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,391
^ i dont mind helping u out, PM me if u like
Yes I did see a difference in throttle response. here is what i noticed so far: Obviously the idle changed, look at the amount of crap i took out. The idle is slightly higher as expected. This is where a lot of people complain that their idle is too high. Its not, it should adjust itself, if not then u can adjust it urself via the idle screw. Right now in D my car idles at 650, in P the car idles at 900.
Basically, the pick up off the line is faster, its hard to explain, but it feels like the transmission shifts easier now. Its more fun to drive - can this really be? or is it just in my head? well i let my dad drive for a block around my house, he noticed it too.
The biggest improvement (to my satisfaction) is low end torque. i say i got about a 15% boost in the <3000 RPM range. This is of utmost importance to me in city driving. I drive conservatively to save gas and let the transmission do its work in the lower rpm range, this is where the VQ shines, its got so much torque down low.
But i will never know what exactly affected my car the most because i decided to tackle 3 things at once.
Yes I did see a difference in throttle response. here is what i noticed so far: Obviously the idle changed, look at the amount of crap i took out. The idle is slightly higher as expected. This is where a lot of people complain that their idle is too high. Its not, it should adjust itself, if not then u can adjust it urself via the idle screw. Right now in D my car idles at 650, in P the car idles at 900.
Basically, the pick up off the line is faster, its hard to explain, but it feels like the transmission shifts easier now. Its more fun to drive - can this really be? or is it just in my head? well i let my dad drive for a block around my house, he noticed it too.
The biggest improvement (to my satisfaction) is low end torque. i say i got about a 15% boost in the <3000 RPM range. This is of utmost importance to me in city driving. I drive conservatively to save gas and let the transmission do its work in the lower rpm range, this is where the VQ shines, its got so much torque down low.
But i will never know what exactly affected my car the most because i decided to tackle 3 things at once.
06-10-2007, 02:06 PM
#11
congrats dude! I just had all of that done recently. Ya gotta wait until idle's readjusted, if it doesn't then just adjust it yourself. I also noticed a healthy does of power in the <3Krpm range as well as little boost in MPG 
...and i'd also like to stress the improtance of using new gaskets. My idle also used to be about 500-550rpm in D. Now it's a healthy 650.
...and i'd also like to stress the improtance of using new gaskets. My idle also used to be about 500-550rpm in D. Now it's a healthy 650.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sdotcarter
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
2
09-02-2015 09:53 PM