pmohr knows the 4th generation Maxima inside out, I think he wrote that in jest. All 1995 and later Maximas are OBD-II compliant.

A good number of vehicles (various makes/models) were compliant in their 1995 model year, and a few were even compliant for their 1994 model year. OBD-II came out for the 1994 model year but wasn't mandatory until the 1996 model year.

On the other subject of your question, it is quite easy to read malfunction codes from the 4th generation Maxima without an OBD-II reader. You need only a little screwdriver, find the instructions in the stickies or search with google.

 

I am new here and had a few questions if anyone is reading. I tried to start my own thread, but maybe since I am new this feature is not available to me? Anyways, this thread seems to have run it's course so I don't feel as I am hijacking it; and I have a few questions about this topic.

Details:
1996 maxima

On a normal day driving noticed some hesitation with the gas/acceleration when proceeding from a stoplight. RPM's bounced a little, and I jammed the gas and she took! lol Drove her home and she didn't show any more symptoms during that drive.

Next day she started fine, drove fine for a few miles and just before getting to my destination did the same hesitation and jerking as before. When driving, the RPS's dropped and picked back up again a few times. All with steady pressure on the gas.

She then started showing another symptom, having difficulty starting when warm. I began to think oh ****! I need to look into this more. Keep in mind, I am not the mechanic type; but HATE to pay out the *** for things I can learn or do myself. I started learning that I can do things myself when I had to change the alternator a few years ago, it was a learning experience but very satisfying also! Saved a few hundred in labor, for a part that was only like 80-100 bucks. That was even before I knew about maxima.org! The last bolt was hella difficult, but it worked out after some pb blast. Before that all I have done is change the oil, and watch my friends install a starter and install new rotors/brakes. So my experience is noob to novice, and brings me to my current situation.

I happened upon maxima.org, and a big thanks to pmohr for making that code program and helping explain how to retrieve the codes! I was a little thrown off by just getting one code 3-4 (knock sensor), as I read everyone seemed to say that its always something that makes the knock sensor code throw, and it's never just the knock sensor by itself. Again, it only showed the one code for knock sensor.

The next day
CEL is not on anymore, and I didn't specifically clear the code (maybe by mistake?) Car runs fine, even feel comfortable enough to take her on the road for a small trip. A few hundred miles aprox. She drives fine on the way there, but doesn't have the same pep as before. On the way back, a few miles into the return that bright *** CEL comes on when I am accelerating. Continue the trip at a snails pace to be sensitive to the motor just in case. Everything seems ok, but seems a little sluggish. Not sure if it is because doing under the speed limit going easy on her or not.

Check codes upon return, this time two codes. Same code for knock sensor, second code for misfire cylinder 4 (iirc). Cleared the codes.

Still showing symptoms of difficulty starting, takes a while to turn over. Haven't noticed the funky RPM's again. Haven't driven her much, wanting to take it easy on her until the problems can be resolved.

The CEL is lit again, and it shows two codes. The 3-4 (knock sensor) and 9-8 (engine coolant sensor).

At first I thought this was it for her, and was about to scrap her. Then the DIY in me came out again and I am ready to try to remedy this situation myself. I owe it to this car, she has really been good to me. I plan to tune her up real good, and keep her going but am short on money and want to limit un-needed fixes if at all possible.

I plan to first inspect the wires (again) and connections, but to be honest it all looks the same under there. It is hard for me to decide a good from bad wire, but i will give it my best shot.


Since the CEL listed the 9-8 code I will first inspect those wires and if needed replace the part. This has me thinking it is a good time to do a few other fixes while my hands are dirty, but I don't want to just waste money on perfectly good working parts.

I used to have a great mechanic that would work on trying the simple fixes first, then if needed continue to locate the problem. This seems to me being the best way to approach problems on cars, and I would like to use this method.

If you are still reading, thank you! haha I just needed to get a little of that out there and if anyone can help bounce ideas off on with me that would be great.

I have a few back-up plans in case this engine coolant sensor does not "fix" it. They are to look at:
1-knock sensor
2-MAF sensor
3-Fuel Pump
4-O2 Sensors

I am not sure in what order to look at those if the engine coolant sensor does not fix the problems so any help is appreciated.

Also I have just one question about the CEL codes. pmohr says that there is an initial LONG blink that starts the sequence. Does this additional LONG blink occur ONLY when the code starts to flash? Or does it occur again and again when the codes repeat?

Many thanks for reading! If/when I do any work I will try to document and provide help/photos of the process. This site already helped me a lot and gave me the confidence back to do things myself and not just toss old betsy to the curb.

I also plan to check things before just going with a new part, but sometimes it is hard for me to determine what is faulty vs what is just dirty under the hood. It took a while for me to accept dirty as being ok.

Also the A/C stopped blowing cold, but I guess thats another topic. Again, I tried to start my own thread but I was not able to. Damn I write a lot! haha Go LAKERS

 

I would say before you buy any parts, do the following"

1) Clean air intake system. "Throttle Body and MAF"
2) Clean the fuel Injectors
3) Check for vacuum leaks and leaks on the EGR valve.
4) Check the spark plug and ingnition coil that is missfiring.

 

F**k the Lakers!!! lol

Beat LA! BEat LA! Beat LA! Boston Baby!!!!!

Sup Maxxin man.

Yo man, there is NO need to be talkin bout scrappin the car. U got classic issues. I read the post and it seems to me that u not a normal DIYer. THats fine man, i wasnt either. THat was until i bought my first max lol. Now i do mad shyt myself. With the maxi u have to understand that there are a lotta sensors on the car that u have to clean/maintain to keep the car runnin at peak performance. THat being sd lets get to yur issue.

You got CEL for ECTS (engine coolant temperature sensor). 25 bucks from autozone. Replace it. All u have to do is unscrew it. Super easy. U can test to see if its working but F it, jus get a new one. We doin prevenative maintenance here and with the maxi thats the name of the game. when u replace the ECTS be quick about it cuz coolant gonna be rushin out. Obviously replace when coolant is cool so u dont burn yurself .

Next, do the big cleaning. Clean MAF and TB as per how tos. With the TB u dont have to remove it, jus use a rag and stick, carb cleaner and clean as far inside as u can. Maf cleaner for MAF. Jus be prepared, if the cleaning it dont work u may need replacement MAF, but the cleaning will help def.

Do a quick tune up. Replace PCV, air filter, and fuel filter. PCV is PITA but very doable. U may have to remove a bracket or two to get enough clearance room to get the old PCV out. When u replace fuel filter, jus lay some towels down under the filter cuz fuel gonna come out. But its not hard either.

Since u had misfire code. u may have to replace spark plugs too. To do this u will need a spark plug socket, ratchet, and extensions. U can get any NGK or u can get Autozone cheapo platinums, DONT get Bosch. When u remove black coils in each well inspect them for wear or tear. TO remove plugs, use the socket to loosen and the black coil remove plug. Make sure the plug is seated properly when u reinstall and use antisieze compound on the threads too. Check the connectors goin to the connectors. Make sure they good. replace anythin that look faulty. Throw some chevron techron in the fuel tank. Here is where cyl 4 is,

firewall

1 3 5

2 4 6

radiator

Since u got codes its easier to diagnos. U may jus be able to clean the MAF, TB and replace ECTS and be good. But u shd do everythin i mentioned especially if u got high miles. All of it u can do yurself. that shd fix any issue u have.

Also PM sent. holla at me if u got any other questions.

Dont forget to reset the ECU after u do all this work too.

 

If your car is at a point where at idle it'll start stalling and sputtering, try unplugging the MAF and then start the car again and if it idles just fine and there is not a single sputter or stall.

Then it is most likely the MAF sensor that is causing your problems.

 

not sure if anybody mentioned this but the idle control valve might need to be replace..its right under the throttle body

 

bullet,cash,konev, and joe!

Much respect for your responses! I really appreciate the help and will get on your suggestions a.s.a.p.

I used to have another nissan p/u and one time it was doing symptoms kind of like this and I thought it was the tranny starting to slip so I got rid of her. Knowing what I know now I wish I would have looked into it more, but oh well. I can at least do it for betsy my max. Big difference with the newer type cars with sensors and all that stuff you are right cash.

These cars are great, and like I said I owe it to her! I will be keeping her and getting her to her original glory. I got her a few years ago with like 50 or 60k miles and put damn near another 100k on her. During that time only changing oil, one starter, and one alternator. Really she deserves me to put some love back into her, and I will.

I'm going to do all the clean-up things first, and do the things suggested by you guys.

Took her out yesterday down the street to see how she was doing. Took a few times to start, and I had to heave ho on the gas pedal (not sure if that is what did it or not?) and she started. Once started she wanted to stall if I let off the gas (in park), and I revved her good to try and clean out her pipes. She sounded good, but smelled like she was running rich and I got some smoke out of the exhaust when I revved her hard.

She stalled out when I let off the gas, then started right back up and drove fine to my friends. Leaving my friends she started fine, but a few blocks down the street she stalled out while driving! First time she stalled when already on the road, was driving a side street so maybe going like 20-25 mph. Threw it in N, got to a stop and cranked her she started up right away and drove home just fine.

Really I appreciate everyone who responded and gave their help, 4 real thats whats up. Thanks, I'mma see what I can do and get betsy back to o.g. player status. Ladies love the max, and I love the ladies.

Engine then suspension, then interior (that damn boot is all ****ed up!) I'mma keep betsy and pass her down the line in the family when someone needs a good car.

I'm stoked and can't wait to get under the hood.

Thanks again everyone. I'm off to read some of those threads about cleaning the MAF and other stuff you guys listed. This site go hard! yeeee yeeee

 

Good luck! Let us know if you fix the problem.

 

"Hey maxxin, To cut down on spam messages in our forums, we restrict users who may start a new thread to those members who have 15 posts. Spamming other threads to get to the required 15 posts will result in the loss of your member privileges. Thanks for your understanding!"

love this kind of ****! ^^ and not to bump old threads, and all the bossy behavior on this site. Wanted to show how I fixed the problem, but I guess this site has what it needs and doesn't want new member input.

On a lighter note, thanks to those who were so helpful in this thread the problem seems to have been fixed in all of 30 minutes. The first 5 minutes to take off a few parts that were in the way, mostly just the air intake stuff. Next 20 minutes trying to get the plastic clip un did at the electrical housing. For a minute i didnt think it waz gona budge. Once it did, last 5 minutes was with a wrench unscrewing the sensor.

The new one teflon tape and screwed back in, all parts back how they were. Start the engine, no hesitation she went right on. Took for a spin, opened her up seemed nice. Been a while since driving, so felt funny. Idle did drop a little low after opening up the throttle, but it never stalled out so far so good. Left it running for 30 min and fans would kick on and off, everything seems so far so good.

Will do all the fixes suggested by the others, thanks for them. Don't think I will post about them, post new threads day 1 or nothing. Peace out homies, yeee go lake show

 

Hey good people of maxima.org!

So I have a quick question if anyone has some information of help it is appreciated, i'll try to keep the rundown short but also want to mention some things for proper diagnosis so please try to get through my ramblings.

Car had been sitting about 1 year or 1.5 year starting fine here and there whenever it needed to move.

One of those times I was getting codes and as previous posts show an engine coolant temp. sensor was the fix. All is good.

A few weeks/months later and still sitting. Go to crank her up, nothing. Dead, not even a click. Think to myself dead battery. Check voltage and replace battery. She starts up fine. Dead again, same sound, nothing. Change the starter, she cranks up fine. Good for a few more, then again dead, nothing. Battery drained this time, so it must be the alternator. It is the alternator, and showing a charge under 12 it was at 10v. No good, change the alternator. During the process I notice a small hairline crack once the radiator heated up on the plastic top. Replaced the radiator, upper and lower hoses, thermostat and all that jazz.

Cleaned throttle body and did those little things along the way also.

She was running great for a few weeks. Only having a CEL for erg tube come on when I really got the rps up. Would check to verify it was the same code and clear it, sometimes it wouldn't come on for days if I was not getting on her to get on the freeway or anything.

Decided to try a quick fix on the erg CEL and inducted some seafoam into her. She smoked a LOT of buildup off out of the exhaust and catalytic converter. CEL was not popping back up. Thinking I am gravy and everything is maxxin and relaxin.

So one day I go to crank her, dead, nothing. You have got to be kidding me! lol Same sound as before. All lights work, voltage is good, so I am thinking it is possibly something to do with the ignition, or electrical wires at the battery terminal or electrical connections at the starter. Most likely my guess is something with the ignition or starter.

This is where it gets a little funky, and I have never experienced anything like this. I left it out until the end to try and make the timeline flow, but this occurred shortly after replacing all parts. I went to start her one morning and the wierdest thing happened. She did not start, and I heard a loud hummmming sound. It sounded like a very high speed computer fan going full blast, and kind of sounded like it came from the starter area. Turned the key off and the sound persisted, it did not stop. I was kind of bugging out at this point, got my wits about me and quickly popped the hood and disconnected the battery. The sound stopped, and I noticed a small amount of smoke streaming from the area near the starter but not sure it was the starter.

I connect the cable back to the battery and the sound starts up again! I quickly take it back off. I am bugging out even more and this is something I have never experienced before. I connected the battery cable again after a few minutes and this time the sound was gone. I tried to crank her and she was dead, the same dead, nothing. I try again, she starts right up! She started right up for another 20 times or so, until she died again. That is where she is now, dead with that same nothing sound. Voltage is good on the battery, I am at my wits end. Please anyone have any advice?

I don't want to keep sinking money into her and have had a few random people drive by ask to buy her. I don't want to let her go either though because she is a good car and before I let her sit ran excellent. I thought I was good doing the fixes I did, sure of it.

Could it just be bad luck on a re-manufactured starter?
Something stick on the starter that one time and burnt it out?
Ignition?

Any advice is welcome, and if you are local and of age I owe you a few brews.

I would really like to get her going again and feel confident driving her long distances, but the last few fixes got me thinking she is past her prime. What do you all think, am I just being a baby?

Thinking to go back to old model cars with a carb. and room under the hood to work. 72' el camino with a big block stroke the motor....tools and a few spare parts in the trunk to fix if the situation presents itself. What do you all think? thanks for reading, I know it is a long read.

 

^
day later

Jiggled the key a little and she cranked up, a little more was needed to turn her over but nothing drastic. She had not been starting for over a week or so.

To make sure it was not a fluke I let her idle for a while, turned her off and tried again. Nothing, she is dead again! Lights and dash are good, voltage was saying 13.9 on the alternator and battery is charged.

Is this ignition? Sounds like it but not sure what to do. After all the work put into it over the last few months she needs to be up and running! please any info or help is appreciated.

 

Maxxin--

I have no idea what the humming sound might be, but the intermittent no-start sounds a lot like what I (and others) have dealt with. See my posts 13 and 18: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ml#post7075437

 

Humming sound coould be starter. I say replace the ignition switch too if u got the loot.

Damn man, stop letting her sit so long lol

 

Thanks cashoit and DBear! So it was a combination of two things.

Pulled the ignition switch out and looked at it, it looked nice and clean nothing too bad. I have always had a funny jingle in the key mechanism so figured it was going to be a bad ignition switch. Tried it with a flat head screwdriver and same thing, nothing.

Was about to get the starter out and do all that jazz when I noticed a slightly loose connection on the positive terminal. The secondary wire not the one with the plastic clip. It was nasty looking so I did a quick scuff and wire brushed it, same with the other terminal and battery connections.

Tried the flat head in the ignition switch again and VROOM she was alive! Figuring it was just a loose cable I put everything back together and tried with a key, nothing! lol It was a combination of a loose connection and what appears to be a bad ignition switch.

I will try to shim it like DBear mentioned and believe that will fix her proper. If not I will get a new ignition switch, but will try the shim first. For now I will be riding with no steering wheel cover and a flat head, no bandanna

Thanks a TON you two, cash homie you always try to help I appreciate it.

DBear, I saw you gave that same advice to a few other homies with similar problems once I started finding some threads searching. I think a shim will fix her proper and get back to you once I get some more daylight.

Cali Bearrrrszzz everywhereszzzz. Thizzzzzzzz rip MAC DRE

 

Mine doing the same thing 95 Auto. Sputters and stalls everyday coming home from work in same spot. Yesterday I sat in parking lot and let it run. 5 minutes went by and when the coolant fans kicked on it started to sputter. I bought a new coolant sensor last nite and put it in. I ran it for a while last nite and when the coolant fans kicked on it didnt lose rpms. I will find out today when i leave for work

 

I believe that I am having very similiar problems to this with my 98 Max. I just bought this car a month ago and don't know much about the history. The car intermittently will lurch and die on me. It does this at idle and while driving. The idle will die down to 200 rpm and hang there until I rev it or it will just die. Some times it will drive for up to 50 or 60 miles without any symptoms. The CEL's that it threw out were for the bank 1 sensor 1, knock sensor, small evap leak. I have replaced that following already by following this forums advise and by just simple tune up proceedures when I buy a new car: NGK V-power, coil packs, fuel filter, air filter, ECTS, knock sensor, bank 1 sensor 1 O2, oil and filter, sea foam engine and fuel system, cleaned MAF and throttle body, gas cap. The frustrating part about this is that the car will run awesome sometimes and like complete **** other times but it will not throw a code that is helpful! I cannot afford to continue guessing any longer so I will be very grateful if anyone has any great thoughts that may get me out of this holw that I am in!