I have a second battery. But it's been in the car for about a day. The next day the fuse started blowing. I don't think it's causing the problem. Cuase the fuse would have blown after it

 

What do you mean a second battery, you replace the battery? You have two batteries inside the car. You replaced the battery and the fuse blew the next day?

 

Why did you replace the battery, sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to get idea whats going on.

 

Do you still have the original battery, it may be worth reinstalling just for a test.

 

Ok I have a blue optima battery in the factory spot and a red top(optima) on the other side of the engine. My friend wired it up for me. The blue top has been in my car for a very long time now. The red top was another old battery of mine that we just wired up. It was done correctly with the isolator and everything. THe next day my windows started messing up. I don't think it's because of the battery becuase if it was the fuse would have blown right then and there not 24hrs later.

 

It's just that these type of problems don't usually occur out of the blue. I understand what you are saying about the fuses not blowing right away, but I would disconnect the extra battery and make my electrical system stock, then see what happens.

 

I used to repair electrical systems for CNC machine tools. I understand and have experience troubleshooting electrical circuits, if you want to fix a problem you have to isolate that problem, you have to eliminate possible causes by doing something and not just thinking that something can not possibly cause a problem. You were sure that fuse was not blown too. Sorry if I'm sounding like a PITA.

 

Why the extra battery? It just sounds like a good way to cause a problem if you are not entirely sure what you are doing.

 

tjis maybe a stupid question but why 2 batteries? high watt stereo ?

 

As a matter of fact I would be willing to bet that this additional battery, especially the wiring to it, is more than likely the cause of your problems. I realize the problem showed up a day later.

 

I would suggest you totally disconnect all the wiring of the additional battery from your electrical system then replace F12 & F26 as discussed before. Then see what happens. The wiring diagrams I am looking at are for a stock electrical system I cannot be sure how your additional battery is wired and how it may effect the electrical sysytem.

 

First off thanks again for the growing interest I trully appreciate it.
1. I changed fuse #12 & 26 this morning everything was working, trunk light, door lights, cruise, windows. I shut off the car then about two hours later came back started and check again. Later on while driving I was just curious and tried to roll down my windows and by then it was gone again and so was door illumination.
2. I've had optima battery in my car for over two years. The second battery is installed becuase of my highwatt stereo. I could not affored the stinger high output alternator. I just used two optimas instead.
3. The reason for me thinking that it might not be the second batteries is, this one question "why only those two fuses and nothing else" If the batter was screwing up everything that ran off them would be blown.
4. In the interest of sloving this I will remove the positive off my second battery and go and buy another set of fuses and see what happens all day tomorrow. If it still fails then I have an appt with nissan on tuesday morning.

 

Sounds like a good plan, let me know what solves the problem in the end.

 

Ok I went to autozone this morning and found out a few things that help narrow down the problem even more. I took off the second battery and the auto zone rep took an obd II scanner and it gave and error code P0600. So it's not second battery or my aftermarket wiring. It's just a factory wiring that being shorted.

 

It's a strange problem because you have two different fuses (different circuits) blowing and they don't blow right away. Usually a short circuit does not respond in this manner. Maybe its your body control module failing or something strange like that. But usually this type of problem ends up with a simple cause. I don't think it should be the second battery either but it's easy to eliminate as a possible cause so worth trying. If there is one thing I've learned over the years it's when in doubt try the easy stuff first.

 

P0600 is an 0504 error, one of the possibilities is listed as - Discharged or faulty battery. Can you second battery cause this problem? Have you tried new fuses with the second battery disconnected? What were the results?

 

One more thing - Electrical system was functioning properly, is that correct? Now someone does some work on electrical system (adding a battery) one day later electrical system no longer functions properly. Coincidence? ---- I think not. P0600 is an alarm from you transmission control module it occurred because the power supplied to the module (your additional battery) is causing a problem. If that's not it then I think your car is possessed.

 

Ok i'm going to take out the second battery, replace the two fuses and see what happens.

 

Good plan. I expect you will have good results.
Also check your connections at your main battery make sure they are tight and that any wires that were run to your 2nd battery are not touching anything.

 

I was just going to take out the negative lead out and put in both fuses and see what happens. Or since I have an appt with nissan at 9am tomorrow, i'll tell them about it. if that fixes it then i'm good to go. If not then i'll just have them fix it.

 

Save yourself some money don't take it to Nissan until you try this last fix.

 

I tried it this morning. I replaced both fuses, took off both battery terminals from my second battery. I checked after installed both fuses(12 &26) my door lights(interior illumunation) was working fine and so were the windows. I kept the door open, looking at the door light, the moment I started the car the door light went out. I checked the fuse and saw that it had blown(fuse 26). On the other hand my cruise light kept flashing non stop.

 

I dropped off the car this morning at nissan. I noticed something though, the windows worked all the way to the nissan dealership, but the trunk light went out as soon as I started the car. Both battery terminals are still off the second battery, just in case.

 

Well I just came back from nissan and they could not find any, they said it was an intermittent problem. I went to autozone and replace the fuse #12 with a 30amp fuse and my interior lights came back on and stayed on. Fuse #26 has a 7.5 amp fuse in it and if changed to a high amperage the cruise light thats blinking when the cuirse switch is turned on so I left it at 7.5. So there is stands, second battery disconnected for now until I get my car painted and other mechanical problems solved.

 

That does not surprise me, this is just a really strange problem that can be difficult to troubleshoot (I tried). It's not a good idea to replace fuses with ones that are higher amperage especially 30A to replace a 7.5 AMP. The fuses are there to protect your wiring and electronics such as control modules, you can also cause a fire. I may replace a 7.5A with something a little higher but not a 30AMP. It's possible that with the 30A fuse the component that is causing the problem may fry completely, hopefully it won't start on fire. I still think that your second battery may have had something to do with your problems. Good Luck!

 

I guess I cannot stop but F12 7.5 amp fuse provides power to the following relays, sunroof relay, rear window defogger relay, Automatic speed control relay, among others. If you want to keep trying remove those relays and see if F12 7.5 A fuse stops blowing. It would help to narrow the possiblities. Any chance you got some water in a door or under the hood that can cause a problem like this too.

 

Well the f12 is still working fine. My windows are good for right now. My door light went out when I opened my driver side door though. It was fine all the way out and back home but as soon as I got home and opened my door the light went out.

 

Listen, if you still want to try and fix this and are not in a rush I will try and help, if not that is fine also. I have spent a lot of time trying to figure this problem out. The thing is if we are to make progress you need to do exactly what I tell you and report the results. If you are up for it great, if not that is also fine with me. You will probably need a dozen 7.5 amp fuses and can start by doing what I suggested in my previous post. install 7.5 amp fuse in F12 and remove the following relays, sunroof relay, rear window defogger relay, Automatic speed control relay and see if F12 7.5 A fuse stops blowing. You can drive without these relays.

If anyone else has a good suggestion I'm all ears.

 

The f12 is working fine even today so no problems there. Just the f26, i think it might be something in my driver side door, when I close it the fuse blew again. I'm going to go in there and just recheck everything and electrical tape the connections that don't look right. My windows are still powering up and down. I still have the second battery umplugged for now till i get everything straight.

 

F26 is only for the truck lamp and (door?) light circuit, you have a diagram for it in a previous thread. Good Luck!

 

so probably it's coming from my door? Just check the connections there?

 

The wiring appears to run from the fuse box to the door switches which turn on the lights when you open the door, both driver and passenger side. The wiring than runs to the lights on the doors and also powers your dome light. pop out your door lights both sides and check that the connections to the lamps are good if that looks ok check the connections at the door switches. Also try turning off your dome light and see if that makes any difference. This fuse also protects the trunk light circuit if these was a problem with the wiring to the switch or lamp in the trunk this would also blow the fuse. The most common problem for this short circuit would be a exposed wire that is touching the body of the car. Another possibility is if a connection was made in error such connected to the wrong mating connector.

 

Well you won'd belive what i've gone through. Well the interior lights are all working well now and has been doing so for a couple of days now including the power windows. My dash lights stay on even when I take the key out of the ignition and stay on all night and day till i started the car again, then go back to normal once started. After spending $438 i found out it was the ignition switch that needed to be replaced. So now that's fine. I notice my trunk light stays on now, i opened the trunk and slammed it back down but the light still stays on. In the mean time i just cut the wires so it won't kill my battery. I really do appreciate all the help you given me.

 

You are welcome, glad to hear that it is fixed. Looks like the second battery had nothing to do wiith your problem. I mentioned the ignition switch on one of my first posts, but short of changing the switch it probably would have been difficult to determine that that was the problem. Good Luck!

 

Well now I only have two problems.
1. Trunk light stays on all the time, while driving.
2. cruise control switch does not turn on, when I push it down it lights up but goes right back off again in less than a tenth of a second.
3. what does P1105 mean and what do i need to fix it.
do you know much about maxima suspension

 

It's strange that after the ignition switch was changed you still seem to have additional electrical problems, it's unusual for this many problems to occur at once. Really hard for me to help at this point. If someone charged you over $400 to change the ignition switch they should have fixed the rest of the electrical problem.
I change my struts a couple months ago so I'm very familiar with that part of the suspension.

 

I just want to know what will improve my suspension system(tokico illumnia w se springs) I don't want to feel the harsh road and I want tighten my steering.

 

I installed Monroe struts with my stock Maxima SE springs. Just wanted original ride, firm but not harsh. I am happy with them. The Monroes cost less than the tokicos.

 

Hey you did not answer my question about the cruise control not working right. Also I would like to know where the trunk light is activated from. I only have two electrical problems left. My trunk light stays on even when the trunk is closed and my cruise does not turn on.

 

I'd like to help but it seems like you are having a lot of problems and they seem to be pretty unusual which makes it very difficult. I'll check on the trunk switch, I took a quick look and could not find it but if your trunk light won't turn off this is the switch that needs checking I'll take another look and let you know. The cruise problem is much harder to fix, it's just weird that you ignition switch and your cruise would fail at the same time. I'll take a look also, give me some time. If anyone else has any ideas they would be appreciated.