Favorite interior mods?
Favorite interior mods?
I'm currently away at school and the only mods I can easily do (due to a lack of tools and space) for the time being are interior mods..
So what are your favorite interior mods? I need to keep busy!
So what are your favorite interior mods? I need to keep busy!
I have some SE gauges for sale for ya too; even with the wiring harness intact! Here's the eBay link if interested: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MESE:IT&ih=010
Convert your Window Switches, Climate Control, Cruise Control, Security, and Gauge lights to LED's.
You can do this easily at school since you can remove all the pieces and take them into your room to work on them
You can do this easily at school since you can remove all the pieces and take them into your room to work on them
LEDs all around, and I did some custom LED tubes that are under my seats. I used a toggle to control when they come on, one setting is on when the lights are on, the other is never, and the other is only when the doors open up. Its more like a 'courtesy light', it illuminates the floorboard so you can see what the hell you're stepping on.
Originally Posted by xloki77x
chrome gauge rings. also, and i'm not really sure if this qualifies as an interior mod, but i have always been partial to a boost gauge.....
Have fun with it but keep up with school work. Send us pics once you start going.
Originally Posted by MOHFpro90
LEDs all around, and I did some custom LED tubes that are under my seats. I used a toggle to control when they come on, one setting is on when the lights are on, the other is never, and the other is only when the doors open up. Its more like a 'courtesy light', it illuminates the floorboard so you can see what the hell you're stepping on.
Originally Posted by fulloboost
sts not exactly an interior mod since u have to climb under the car lol..not enough tools the boy said
Originally Posted by ZachsMax
Sounds pretty sweet. How'd you go about doing that?
Difficulty(1-5): 2. You need some patience and electrical knowledge, but nothing hard.
Time Taken: 1-2 hours. I had difficulty with fuses, LEDs and testing. A flawless run would take no more than 45 minutes.
Cost: Ehh...tubes $1 + LEDs $7(100 count off ebay) + other possible supplies $4 + SPDT Center-off toggle $3 = #11 minimum, $15 maximum
Simple way:
Used the ash try light for a power source.
You need:
Wire, say 24G or something.
Phone Cord(used for the small wire inside, great stuff)
LEDs of your choice(3mm in size) with resistors.
3mm inner diameter clear tubing. Check your local hobby shop
1.5mm inner diameter clear tubing(optional)
Packing tape or other strong clear tape
Model Glue(or any other clear drying glue)
Scissors
1. Cut your 3mm tubing into 2 14" long pieces.
2. Cut your 2mm tubing into 2 12" pieces.
3. Take 4 LEDs and prep 2 of them with resistors.
4. Put a dab of glue in each end of the 3mm tubing and put the LEDs in.
5. Use an exacto or similar to get the 2 straps of small wire out of the phone cord shielding. My inner wires were red and green.
6. Cut 2 sets of phone wire 15" long(two red and two green each 15").
7. Strip, tin and run your phone wires through the 2mm tubing, 1.5" out on each end.
8. Tape or glue(tape is quicker) the 2mm tubing to the 3mm tubing horizontally, leaving about an inch of 3mm tubing on each end.
9. Solder your phone wires to the LEDs in each end, making sure polarity matches. I.E. the + of one LED goes to the + of the other via the phone wire in the 2mm tubing).
10. Now, in your car, under the drivers seat, the tub will fit nicely on a horizontal bar. I used silver wire, you can use tape, twine, whatever you prefer.
11. On the drivers side, its a bit trickier. I used silver wire again to suspend the tube between the cross bars of the seat. Its a bit tricky but just be patient.
12. Run your wires under and into the center console, and hook up your power via solder, heat shrink, your choice.
All done!
If you want to configure a switch the way I did, you'll need a single pole, double throw toggle with center off. You can get it at Radioshack.
To wire it up:
There are three poles on the bottom of the switch. The only crucial one is the middle, pole 3 and 1 can be switched.
Pole 1: The ashtray + wire should be soldered onto this.
Pole 2: The LED tubes + should be on this one.
Pole 3: The Door open light + wire should be on this one.
I have yet to actually FIND the door signal light. I am trying to find where the wires for the door lights come into the car, and splice it there, and run the wire through the lower dash/center console. Once I do, Ill update this. Ill also see if I cant get some pictures for clarification if its needed.
i really do enjoy my white clock/ climate control a lot. I did the LED mod for the climate and its flickering now but aside from that i really enjoyed it. On top of that i did that all as i installed my new headunit so everything was 1 day process.
Originally Posted by WhiteA32
The best mod by far is going to be the clock rewire, so that it doesn't dim when you turn your headlights on.
Originally Posted by Linkage23
I have some SE gauges for sale for ya too; even with the wiring harness intact! Here's the eBay link if interested: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MESE:IT&ih=010
Alright, here you go!
Difficulty(1-5): 2. You need some patience and electrical knowledge, but nothing hard.
Time Taken: 1-2 hours. I had difficulty with fuses, LEDs and testing. A flawless run would take no more than 45 minutes.
Cost: Ehh...tubes $1 + LEDs $7(100 count off ebay) + other possible supplies $4 + SPDT Center-off toggle $3 = #11 minimum, $15 maximum
Simple way:
Used the ash try light for a power source.
You need:
Wire, say 24G or something.
Phone Cord(used for the small wire inside, great stuff)
LEDs of your choice(3mm in size) with resistors.
3mm inner diameter clear tubing. Check your local hobby shop
1.5mm inner diameter clear tubing(optional)
Packing tape or other strong clear tape
Model Glue(or any other clear drying glue)
Scissors
1. Cut your 3mm tubing into 2 14" long pieces.
2. Cut your 2mm tubing into 2 12" pieces.
3. Take 4 LEDs and prep 2 of them with resistors.
4. Put a dab of glue in each end of the 3mm tubing and put the LEDs in.
5. Use an exacto or similar to get the 2 straps of small wire out of the phone cord shielding. My inner wires were red and green.
6. Cut 2 sets of phone wire 15" long(two red and two green each 15").
7. Strip, tin and run your phone wires through the 2mm tubing, 1.5" out on each end.
8. Tape or glue(tape is quicker) the 2mm tubing to the 3mm tubing horizontally, leaving about an inch of 3mm tubing on each end.
9. Solder your phone wires to the LEDs in each end, making sure polarity matches. I.E. the + of one LED goes to the + of the other via the phone wire in the 2mm tubing).
10. Now, in your car, under the drivers seat, the tub will fit nicely on a horizontal bar. I used silver wire, you can use tape, twine, whatever you prefer.
11. On the drivers side, its a bit trickier. I used silver wire again to suspend the tube between the cross bars of the seat. Its a bit tricky but just be patient.
12. Run your wires under and into the center console, and hook up your power via solder, heat shrink, your choice.
All done!
If you want to configure a switch the way I did, you'll need a single pole, double throw toggle with center off. You can get it at Radioshack.
To wire it up:
There are three poles on the bottom of the switch. The only crucial one is the middle, pole 3 and 1 can be switched.
Pole 1: The ashtray + wire should be soldered onto this.
Pole 2: The LED tubes + should be on this one.
Pole 3: The Door open light + wire should be on this one.
I have yet to actually FIND the door signal light. I am trying to find where the wires for the door lights come into the car, and splice it there, and run the wire through the lower dash/center console. Once I do, Ill update this. Ill also see if I cant get some pictures for clarification if its needed.
Difficulty(1-5): 2. You need some patience and electrical knowledge, but nothing hard.
Time Taken: 1-2 hours. I had difficulty with fuses, LEDs and testing. A flawless run would take no more than 45 minutes.
Cost: Ehh...tubes $1 + LEDs $7(100 count off ebay) + other possible supplies $4 + SPDT Center-off toggle $3 = #11 minimum, $15 maximum
Simple way:
Used the ash try light for a power source.
You need:
Wire, say 24G or something.
Phone Cord(used for the small wire inside, great stuff)
LEDs of your choice(3mm in size) with resistors.
3mm inner diameter clear tubing. Check your local hobby shop
1.5mm inner diameter clear tubing(optional)
Packing tape or other strong clear tape
Model Glue(or any other clear drying glue)
Scissors
1. Cut your 3mm tubing into 2 14" long pieces.
2. Cut your 2mm tubing into 2 12" pieces.
3. Take 4 LEDs and prep 2 of them with resistors.
4. Put a dab of glue in each end of the 3mm tubing and put the LEDs in.
5. Use an exacto or similar to get the 2 straps of small wire out of the phone cord shielding. My inner wires were red and green.
6. Cut 2 sets of phone wire 15" long(two red and two green each 15").
7. Strip, tin and run your phone wires through the 2mm tubing, 1.5" out on each end.
8. Tape or glue(tape is quicker) the 2mm tubing to the 3mm tubing horizontally, leaving about an inch of 3mm tubing on each end.
9. Solder your phone wires to the LEDs in each end, making sure polarity matches. I.E. the + of one LED goes to the + of the other via the phone wire in the 2mm tubing).
10. Now, in your car, under the drivers seat, the tub will fit nicely on a horizontal bar. I used silver wire, you can use tape, twine, whatever you prefer.
11. On the drivers side, its a bit trickier. I used silver wire again to suspend the tube between the cross bars of the seat. Its a bit tricky but just be patient.
12. Run your wires under and into the center console, and hook up your power via solder, heat shrink, your choice.
All done!
If you want to configure a switch the way I did, you'll need a single pole, double throw toggle with center off. You can get it at Radioshack.
To wire it up:
There are three poles on the bottom of the switch. The only crucial one is the middle, pole 3 and 1 can be switched.
Pole 1: The ashtray + wire should be soldered onto this.
Pole 2: The LED tubes + should be on this one.
Pole 3: The Door open light + wire should be on this one.
I have yet to actually FIND the door signal light. I am trying to find where the wires for the door lights come into the car, and splice it there, and run the wire through the lower dash/center console. Once I do, Ill update this. Ill also see if I cant get some pictures for clarification if its needed.
Sounds awesome. I was thinking about going and getting some small-diameter PVC, spray-painting it black, drilling a bunch of holes in it, and sticking the 3mm LEDs I got in it and wiring them up.. and then zip-typing it under the passenger and driver seats. Pretty much the same thing you're saying, I think.. do you have any pictures? Also, did you ever figure out where the door-open wire is?
Just an update.. so far since starting this thread I've put new rims on the Maxima, put a stock spoiler on, tinted my bumper lights, debadged the M_A_X_I_M_A on my trunk (but kept the hamburger emblem), added the sliding drawer (and mounted the black flip-down face I originally had on my GXE on the drawer so I have a black slide-out drawer), and am in the progress of converting all my interior lights to red.. so far I've done the window switches and climate control. I'm also going to be installing a carputer soon; I have to make use of the old computer parts I have lying around.
Also, I did the 30-second clock mod
Yeah, but it's massive and bulky. It's like a giant clip.. on the outside of the visor is the solar panel so that you can flip it against the windshield to pick up the sun.. which is kind of stupid considering that 99% of cars have some kind of heavy tint strip at the top of the windshield. The fan is then located on the inside of the visor. You can't even close the visor due to the depth of the fan.. but unless your car doesn't have AC I see no use for fans.




