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LCA- New bushings or whole arm?

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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 08:16 PM
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LCA- New bushings or whole arm?

I am planning on doing my control arms and was hoping I could get some insight on which way to go. I am planning on doing the Superpro bushings as described in this thread http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=529615 and either the bushings that come with the new arms or OEM Nissan front bushings if I keep the original control arms. The stock arms don't have a significant amount of rust on the so I imagine them to be structurally sound.

I have read in some recent threads about bushings not fitting as well into the front portion after the originals are removed. Any truth to this?

Car has never left the road or anything like that, worst stress put on the arms would probably be metal roadwork covers (2-3 times). Any chance that the arms are bent?

Any insight or personal experience would be appreciated as I want to nip this problem (slight wandering, vibration from 60-80) in the bud and be done with it.
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 06:02 AM
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if you say that the original ones are in decent shape, then just paint them and get ES bushings. I've had that done last August, but the issues came back around March, so then i had to just get new LCAs with new bushings & ball joints. It's really up to you. If you have money to spend though, i'd reccomend getting new OEM LCAs/bushings. (nothing the OEMs for piece of mind)
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 09:32 AM
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Changing the bushings (removing the old ones, actually) is enough of a PITA that I was happy with buying new stock arms. You get a new ball joint with that and unless you're all wound up with the idea of stiffer bushings they work great. Buy them from a cheaper Nissan dealer like www.worldpartsexpress.com

I have done both - installed ES bushings and changed the balljoints, and later took those out and put in stockers. No noise, no hassle, better for my needs.

Dave
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 10:40 AM
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+1 on what Dave said
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 12:03 PM
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I purchased a rebuild kit for my 4th gen which included LCA's, bushings, FSB links, outer and inner tie rods. I wouldn't suggest replacing just the bushings as i've found that many people across the boards that i frequent more than the org. have had issues down the road similar to others in this thread.

My LCA's both needed replacing for a few thousand km's now and since it's more of a safety issue, i'm going to get it done tomorrow since i regularly take 600+km trips. OEM parts can't be argued with, but if you're like me and don't want to fork out nearly a grand, you can get cheaper high quality parts. I was lucky to get mine locally for a really good price. I believe they are MOOG branded, however i'm not 100% sure.

LEMAR
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 12:03 PM
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Yeah for sure. Honestly man, id just get new LCA's. OEM of course, i "tried" to install some ES bushings into a spare drivers side control arm, and i seriously gave up. It was such a pain in the ***, to me it wasnt worth. I got each control arm for about 140CAD for OEM nissan ones, car feels MUCH tighter in the front end. Wheel hop seemed to die down quite a bit too. Overall i was pretty happy with it.
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 96blkonblkse
Yeah for sure. Honestly man, id just get new LCA's. OEM of course, i "tried" to install some ES bushings into a spare drivers side control arm, and i seriously gave up. It was such a pain in the ***, to me it wasnt worth. I got each control arm for about 140CAD for OEM nissan ones, car feels MUCH tighter in the front end. Wheel hop seemed to die down quite a bit too. Overall i was pretty happy with it.
$140/ea is a really good price for the OEM pieces. What's your source?

LEMAR
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 02:17 PM
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Just remember to use the large circular washers on the front ES bushings and not those little OEM triangle shaped ones.
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 02:33 PM
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Hymm. Still seems fairly split. I am not deadset on the poly-bushings but I do want to use that caster bushing on the rear pretty much no matter what option I go with.
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Changing the bushings (removing the old ones, actually) is enough of a PITA that I was happy with buying new stock arms. You get a new ball joint with that and unless you're all wound up with the idea of stiffer bushings they work great. Buy them from a cheaper Nissan dealer like www.worldpartsexpress.com

I have done both - installed ES bushings and changed the balljoints, and later took those out and put in stockers. No noise, no hassle, better for my needs.

Dave
I see both USA and Mexico built. Differences between these? Do they also include the front LCA bushing? This is the link I am using http://www.worldpartsexpress.com/par...98&catalogid=1, they range from $105 to $138 which seems very good (similar to eBay prices). Are these different units than the eBay ones?
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 04:28 PM
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Wow, they didn't have those options before. I bought mine using the Nissan part numbers, around $140/ea IIRC.

Dave
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 04:53 PM
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*putting impact in the trunk just incase*
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 06:13 PM
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LOLz Wouldn't hurt!
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 06:24 PM
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Have your wheel bearings been done? Those suckers were giving me a wandering feeling. I did everything at once (BJ, ES bushings, bearings, in/out tie rods, endlinks); it seems like the only way to go to get right.
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 07:20 PM
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Heh my price is 137.15CAD per side i believe. I work at a dealership. so i get like cost + 10% in most cases.

On FAST. It shows the following part # for the control arms:

For my 98 SE 5MT i get these part numbers:

54501-41U01 --LH
54500-41U01 --RH

VQ30DE AT i got all of these:

02/94 - 05/95 54500-39U00 (VQ30DE.GXE.AT)
02/94 - 12/94 54500-40U00 (VQ30DE)
07/96 - 06/98 54500-41U00 (VQ30DE)
06/98 - 54500-41U01 (VQ30DE)

I have the NISSAN FAST parts program, so if youd like me to check i just need your vin and i can tell you the part # it comes up with.

Wow its great working at a nissan dealership and getting along good with everyone
Old Sep 5, 2007 | 05:34 AM
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oh,Fr33way, i'd would also STRONGLY recommend replacing your swaybar bushings/endlinks as well as inner/outer tie-rods. It makes sense doing all of those @ once while you have everything off and it will make your car handle like new
Old Sep 5, 2007 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by JSutter
Have your wheel bearings been done? Those suckers were giving me a wandering feeling. I did everything at once (BJ, ES bushings, bearings, in/out tie rods, endlinks); it seems like the only way to go to get right.
I have done one side. It as well as the other side does not have any play at this time. Ideally I would like to throw new Nissan ones in there down the road.

96blkonblkse- I can PM you my VIN, thanks!

I guess I will mention that I have done new strut bearings (susp. install) and inner/outer tie rod parts to try to correct this problem.

I have heard good things about the MOOG endlinks, so I can put those on order as well. Mine LOOK to be in good shape (not deformed or slipping off the endlink) but I'm sure it will help.

It may be obvious but I am unclear on this: do the OEM control arms come WITH bushings and balljoint? If not, what DO they come with?
Old Sep 5, 2007 | 01:21 PM
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oem LCAs wiill have everything you'd need already on them (balljoints/bushings)
Old Sep 5, 2007 | 03:16 PM
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they have oem replacements, right and left sides on ebay for $107 shipped.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SET-L...spagenameZWDVW

Check it out. I need them bad. I also replaced OEM with ES bushings and about a year or so later, my ball joint is fu**ed. They have about 155k on them so i don't mind doing it, but i didnt really feel too much a difference with the ES bushings. BTW, I had to burn the old ones out with a torch and yeah, it was a BI*CH.
Old Sep 5, 2007 | 03:58 PM
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Honestly when it comes to suspension related parts, id stick with oem. They just seem to be better manufactured. Yeah the burning isnt fun, the fumes could probably screw you up if you dont do it in a well ventilated area.

Fr33way™ PM me your vin, and ill check it under fast. same goes with anyone else if they are replacing the LCA's. Normally theres not that many variations of parts like that...or for aslong as ive been using fast i never really noticed it. But i guess its vehicle specific. it would suck if you ordered the wrong part, and you didnt realize it till you already had your stock lca out.
Old Sep 6, 2007 | 01:27 PM
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Thanks for checking on that.
Old Sep 6, 2007 | 02:26 PM
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I just finished up (today) replacing all the bushings and repainting the arms. Serious PITA! Between the burning off the old rubber, cutting out the pressed on sleeves, and cutting off a siezed sleeve, probably took 1-2 days of solid work, though I have gone back and forth on them since I have a bunch of other stuff going on as well. Knowing what I do now, I would just replace the arms, unless you want to pay a shop to do it. Such a pain.
Old Sep 6, 2007 | 09:50 PM
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I replaced both entire control arms and sold the ES LCA bushings rather than go through the BS of installing new bushings and I've torn maximas down and put them back together pretty much from scratch if that tells you anything...
Old Sep 7, 2007 | 04:10 AM
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OEM or fleabag?
Old Sep 7, 2007 | 10:08 AM
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i got mine off some website, i think it's the one listed earlier in this thread though I can't remember 100% honestly - might have been something like importpartspro or similar.
Old Sep 7, 2007 | 07:54 PM
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Can anyone comment on this deal on ebay??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball-...spagenameZWDVW


shouldnt have to touch these for at least 50k right??
Old Sep 7, 2007 | 08:49 PM
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I bought just their arms. Installed back in Mach. Seems fine (knock on wood)
Old Sep 10, 2007 | 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187
I replaced both entire control arms and sold the ES LCA bushings rather than go through the BS of installing new bushings and I've torn maximas down and put them back together pretty much from scratch if that tells you anything...
123 mph traps = valid opinion.
Old Sep 10, 2007 | 07:29 AM
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Just for everyone's info the two control arms came to a few cents over $300 shipped ($20 ground) using the Nissan parts number.
Old Sep 10, 2007 | 08:08 AM
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I guess that's good for OEMs.
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