ill make this brief. im going to replace my fuel filter in the next week or so. im getting ready to place an order online. im seeing bosch as the most common option.

is there a specific brand i should be getting?

i almost got bosch plugs a couple of weeks back until i mentioned it on here and everyone told me to get NGK. i just dont want to make a similar mistake with this.

 

Get a 300ZX filter, twice the capacity = twice the lifetime.

 

do the 300zx filters alow more fuel to pass through and is the tt filter the same as the n/a, which one do you get

 

300zx filters work the same as the Maxima filters, they're just higher capacity (more filter area, so they last longer). I don't know about brands, I think I bought a Bosch or something. I'd stay away from Fram, all their stuff is garbage.

 

my mechanic is telling me to get a WIX fuel filter. and also says that the 300zx filter is a waste of money, in fact might lead to worse gas mileage (but insignificant)

 

300zx filter hands down

Larger capacity, approximately double the life span, blah blah, they dont let more fuel through, it has the same inlet and outlet sizes as the maxima oem filter has. and it fits in the bracket perfectly.

get a 1996 300zx TT filter, but i think the N/A is the same exact filter.

==========================

Just saw you last post which u made like seconds before mine

Your mechanic is not correct.

Fuel Filter does not affect MPG unless its clogged to the point of choking your car and giving you sputtering and a bad idle.
NISSAN makes the best fuel filters for NISSAN cars, get OEM its the best money spent. And its not THAT expensive

 

just bought this,

12.50 for the item plus 8 shipping...

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...de=16400-00002

tell me if it is wrong as soon as possible so i can cancel the order.
thanks

says it applies to
1990-1996 300zx (Z32) non turbo (vg30de) and turbo (vg30dett)

 

yeah its probly the right one, i dont buy online, but that looks right

good luck with the hoses when u change it, haha everyone hates those two little hoses, here is a hint, USe a flat head screw driver to pry the hoses off the old filter...hehe

 

yea, or like i read in a previous post, just crush the valves on the old one cuz its useless anyway.

once again andrei, thanks for all ur guidance.

 

might as well replace the PCV valve while u r at its really cheap and easy to do
spark plugs, check the air filter
check ur coolant and brake fluids
you may choose to replace the power steering fluid as well its easy and takes like 15-20 minutes. *use dexron 3 atf only for this)
make sure your brakes are in good order (these calipers are notorious for seizing and rusty caliper pins)

i know u were excited to look for tires and rims, but for me maintenance needs override looks and all that. what is the point of having a car that looks good but isnt performing to spec, that would be like having a honduh!!!

Oh almost forgot, check the car for codes, even if the CEL is not on there may be a ghost KS code, which will need to be replaced if u like using 91 octane and ur foot goes over 3-4K rpm often

 

pcv valve?

im gonna wait on the knock sensor and calipers rotors for a bit. everything seems to be pretty solid so far. and yea once the new filter goes in im gonna use nothing but 91

 

http://web.archive.org/web/200111091...k_service.html

this may be useful, its like a 5 dollar positive crank case ventilation valve

it either works or it doesnt, i just suggest it cause the part is so cheap and u can do it in like 5 minutes, but if it clogs then u have trouble, might as well get it done if u are going to get your hands dirty working on the engine...

 

Don't waste your money on 91 or 93 until you get the knock sensor fixed. It will still run like s**t. The timing will be messed up regardless of what grade gas you are using.

 

OEM. Z32 TT or A32.

 

get a 300zx fuel filter. IMO its the best.

 

half the people are telling me to leave it be and the other half are telling me to replace it. im a pretty big guy so the idea of gettin my hand down in there and fine tuning this thing is out of the question. so that leaves just a mechanic. and most mechanics say that the entire intake manifold needs to come off to do it which is like 1-2 hours of labor right there, plus the part it self. so its like a 400 dollar job. other than some flatness in acceleration in the second gear, my car runs fine. ive heard many stories about peopel who replace their KS and all of a sudden have a ****load of new problems to deal with. its not guaranteed to improve performance is it?

 

how do i even know its damaged?
every time u run codes it shows up no matter what

 

Do u have just the KS code ?
Do u have a KS code with other codes ?
What codes do u have ?

---> If you only choose to remember one thing ever on this site then remember this: The KS alone does not set off the CEL, it will not light up because the KS in NOT part of the emissions system. That and the fact that someone by the name of phenryv1 and kevlo911 have the right to ban u forever

If you bought your car used and don't know how its been treated by the owner before you, its a good chance that its been fed 87 oct. instead of 91. KS is activated when the engine produces a knock harmonic. At which time this information is fed to the ECU and it retards the timing - quite literally. Which in turn slows don't the engine, doesn't burn the gasoline off completely, u get deposits forming on the injectors and the car performs like Shaq - still dominant but old and saggy.

im not going to bore everyone with the workings of a KS, because i don't have all day, and this topic has been beaten to death with a baseball bat around here, so i will suggest to use the free search option conveniently located on the upper right hand side of your web page display at the moment.

 

my car does feel sluggish around the 2nd gear area. poor low end torque. has anyone had a mechanic do a KS before? how much did it cost at the end of the day/

ive read all threads on KS for the past month and cost is no where (other than cost of the part).

 

I have to replace my KS, EGR, Alternator belt tensioner and rear motor mount. My Mechanic told me $320 for everything. I tied to replace the knock sensor on the air force base but I found out I had to take the whole manifold off and other things.

 

You don't need to take the manifold off to change. Just need a swivel along with an extension. oh, and small hands too.

 

yea thats what im saying. no mechanic, unless hes a friend, is gonna cut up his hands trying to reach down and put this incredibly frustating thing into place. not when they could just charge you the labor of removing the manifold and doing it easily.

 

it sounds like you just got talked into thinkin there was something wrong with your ks. pull your codes before you go replacing stuff that isn't broken (maybe you have already and i missed something). besides any codes you pull stick to the basics. fluids, rubber, maybe plug wires if you haven't already, visual inspection of your brake pads/rotors.

 

Plug wires? Are you effing serious?

 

yea, ive only had this car about 2 and a half weeks. ive done all fluids, (except tranny), air filter, tire pressure, brake and rotor inspection. i ordered 6 platinum OEM plugs and the 300zxTT fuel filter yesterday so i should have those next week. im getting my "buddy" mechanic to run codes this weekend and help me clean the TB and intake system and maybe lube the throttle cable (some post about it a week back says use TRI FLOW lube, for bikes??).
also the stupid horizontal brake light lense on my spoiler is slowly slipping back into the body, i need some epoxy or something to get it to stay put.
if theres anything im missing, besides KS and MAF of course, lemme kn0w

 

heh... i was actually mad for a second. glad i caught myself. scratch the plug wires.

 

Thought so

 

you win again. maybe next time...

 

ROCKART : i dont see power steering fluid, u dotn have to, but its so easy

if u do - only replace it with Dexron 3 ATF

 

Hey - just a thought here . . . if you're going to run 91+ , you could consider doing the resistor in the ks harness. I did it a couple weeks ago and runs lots better, and I got 3-4 mpg better highway as well. For the fuel filter I used the NAPA Wix. There's a good thread about the resistor here http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=233739

A pack of 25 resistors with 5 of the 47k was 2.95 CDN at The Source (radio shack). when I installed, I bent the ends double into a vee so they would make good contact, then covered it all with lots of elec tape, then taped it to the ks harness. looks oem (almost). Like the thread says, just pay attention to the engine when you get on it, even good gas may knock if you're too hard on it. Unless you can get 93+. I used to mix aviation gas (103) with Sunoco 97 (in the 80's) for a hot Triumph GT6, but you have to know someone at a small airport to get it.