Removing stuck rotors
I've not yet taken off my rotors to replace them, I've just read the Haynes writeup.
In it, they mention using bolts in the threaded holes between the studs to push the rotor off if it's stuck (in the explanation they show a picture of a 4-stud rotor, which seemed odd to me, considering they don't need to use stock photos of the rotors when there are so many in the brake section). Anyway, the book reads, "If the disc is stuck to the hub and won't come off,install bolts of the proper diameter and thread pitch into the threaded holes between the wheel studs and tighten them, which will force the disc off the hub."
No further mention is made of these bolts, so I took my new rotors to the store to check the size of the hole. Guess what? No holes except for the studs! Hm.
I haven't removed the wheels to look at my soon-to-be-replaced rotors, so I don't know if they have this hole.
Anyone know the size of the bolt I need?
If not, how do I remove a stuck disc?
In it, they mention using bolts in the threaded holes between the studs to push the rotor off if it's stuck (in the explanation they show a picture of a 4-stud rotor, which seemed odd to me, considering they don't need to use stock photos of the rotors when there are so many in the brake section). Anyway, the book reads, "If the disc is stuck to the hub and won't come off,install bolts of the proper diameter and thread pitch into the threaded holes between the wheel studs and tighten them, which will force the disc off the hub."
No further mention is made of these bolts, so I took my new rotors to the store to check the size of the hole. Guess what? No holes except for the studs! Hm.
I haven't removed the wheels to look at my soon-to-be-replaced rotors, so I don't know if they have this hole.
Anyone know the size of the bolt I need?
If not, how do I remove a stuck disc?
Originally posted by Maxwell
... they mention using bolts in the threaded holes between the studs to push the rotor off if it's stuck ...
Anyone know the size of the bolt I need? ...
... they mention using bolts in the threaded holes between the studs to push the rotor off if it's stuck ...
Anyone know the size of the bolt I need? ...
If the mallet doesn't do the trick, reach for the bolts. Put a drop of oil on the bolt threads and screw them into the threaded holes. Make them finger tight, and then use a wrench to turn them clockwise 1/4 turn, alternately.
... the Haynes writeup ... they show a picture of a 4-stud rotor, which seemed odd to me ...
I've heard that if you are replacing the rotors anyways, just whack the old rotor off with a mallet. Not so hard as to damage the wheel studs, but I've found that some penetrating lubricant and a rubber mallet always works for disc rotors. This is only for the discs that don't have the "punch out" holes. If you have the extra holes on the surface, you can use those to literally unscrew the rotor from the hub.
DBM is right about the drums....I've done drums once and never again, so much trouble.
DBM is right about the drums....I've done drums once and never again, so much trouble.
I just replaced my rotors about a month ago, and here are a few things that I noticed that might be helpful.
1. I could not get the front rotors off the car without the proper bolts to screw into these holes. They just wouldn't budge. I don't remember the hold size, but M8x1.25 sounds correct. That was my only real problem with them Haynes manual (brake section). They made reference to these bolts, but never gave you a size.
2. The rear rotors do not take the same size bolt as the front ones. I noticed this after I got them off the car. I had no need for these bolts however, as my rear rotors came off with just a good tug.
You may not need them, as my car had 77k miles on it, and I think they were the orignal rotors (...I know they have been on thers since 54k).
As for the new rotors not having these holes...like the others said, they are not necessary, just helpful!
1. I could not get the front rotors off the car without the proper bolts to screw into these holes. They just wouldn't budge. I don't remember the hold size, but M8x1.25 sounds correct. That was my only real problem with them Haynes manual (brake section). They made reference to these bolts, but never gave you a size.
2. The rear rotors do not take the same size bolt as the front ones. I noticed this after I got them off the car. I had no need for these bolts however, as my rear rotors came off with just a good tug.
You may not need them, as my car had 77k miles on it, and I think they were the orignal rotors (...I know they have been on thers since 54k).
As for the new rotors not having these holes...like the others said, they are not necessary, just helpful!
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