OK¡¦ guys I¡¯ve 41K Max SE and I need to change the pad before the race with this rich a$$ again.
Since I ain¡¯t got that much money after the NOS refilling I thought about doing it myself and save the money!
Is it hard to do it? I¡¯ve never done it before though¡¦
Do I have to change the read pad too? It has only 41K on it.
I went to the Maximadriver.com¡¯s How2 but it wasn¡¯t very clear to me since there were no pictures.
Has anyone done it and do you know any website with step by step w/ pics?
Thanks!!!

 

Replacing brake pads is a job the home mechanic can do. It would be helpful, but not essential, to have a knowledgeable friend work with you the first time you do it.

The Haynes repair manual has good coverage of this service procedure, even better than the factory service manual. Haynes has lots of good photos.

You will need a jack, a pair of sturdy jackstands, a socket wrench set, a large C-clamp, and (for rear brakes) a pair of long-nosed pliers. If your brake master cylinder is full, you will have to remove some of the brake fluid. A clean turkey baster is a simple and inexpensive tool for this purpose.

Some Maxima owners insist that you must use Nissan factory brake parts to avoid brake squeal. However, I've had good results with name-brand replacement parts such as Raybestos.

Be sure to apply an anti-squeal compound to the steel backing of the new brake pads. Some brands provide a tube of Blue Goo in the box with the pads.

 

I do have an Haynes manual with me right now!
I think I¡¯m going to give it a try.
I¡¯m going to try on the front first so if my front is not working then at least my rear will save my life. Haha

BTW, is Nissan pad as good as Axxes(?) & other performance pads?

 

YOU CAN DO THESE BRAKE PADS IT IS VERY VERY SIMPLE. DONT BE AFRAID OF DOING IT JUST REMEMBER TO OPEN THE CAP WHERE YOU PUT BRAKE FLUID IN.

1. REMOVE THE WHEELS
2. YOU WILL SEE TWO BOLTS ON THE INNER SIDE OF THE CALIPER
3. AFTER YOU REMOVE THOSE TWO BOLTS LIFT UPWARDS
4. SLIDE THE BRAKE SHOES OFF
5. GRAB THE LARGE CLAMP GRAB YOUR CALIPER LOOK INSIDE OF
IT, SEE THE ROUND THING YOU NEED TO PUSH THAT BACK IN
USING THE C CLAMP. (ENSURE THE CAP IS LOOSE WHERE YOU
FILL THE BRAKE FLUID IF ITS FULL YOULL NEED TO GET
SOME OF THAT FLUID OUT, AND OR WRAP A TOWEL AROUND
IT (PLASTIC CYLINDER) JUST IN CASE THE FLUID COMES OUT
IF YOU DIDNT GET ENOUGH FLUID OUT.
6. APPLY SOME OF THAT ANTI SQUEAL THING AND SLIDE THE
BRAKE SHOES BACK IN.
7. PUT THE TWO BOLTS BACK IN AND YOUR DONE.
8. JUST PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT YOUR DOING. NISSAN SALES
VALUE BRAKE PADS AT 34.95 FOR ALL FOUR PADS THEY WORK
JUST FINE.
9. AFTER YOU DO ALL THAT JUST GET IN YOUR CAR START IT UP
PRESS ON THE BRAKE AND THE THEY WILL RESET THEMSELVES
10 DONT FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE FILLER CAP AND CHECK TO SEE
IF YOU NEED MORE BRAKE FLUID ETC.
11. YOU LL NEED A C CLAMP AND A SOCKET WRENCH I THINK IS A
SIZE 11MM 12MM OR A 13MM. I THINK IS A SIZE 12 FOR

I HOPE THIS WILL HELP YOU A BIT.

[IMG]C:\My Documents\My Pictures\001.jpg[/IMG]

 

Geeez! you guys are amazing!

 

my dad did the brake pad change for me and the brakes NEVER STOP SQUEALING!!! its been 6 monts alrady, he told me he put on anti-squeal stuff but it doesnt seem like it.
he used Raybestos...I dont know whats up but they just NEVER EVER EVER EVER stop squealing, I dont think they are worn down to the bone...

 

if you have disks in rear the caliper piston will need to be screwed in so the new pads can fit over the disk use pliers and be very carfull not to damage the rubber seal

 

Nissan pads are good pads, Axxis pads aren't necessary unless u have upgraded rotors. performance pads on stock rotors will hardly be noticeable.

 

Hmm... I think I will stick with NISSAN OEM pads they're $45 per set for front.
Thanx for all you help guys!
GTRman, your ride looks tight dude!

 

i am also grateful for the helpful posts. I just ordered the haynes manual and will attempt to replace my pads as well (first timer).

saving money is GOOD!

 

I just changed my front/rear pads last week. Yo uwill notice that, at least with aftermarket pads, the brakes will makemore noise. Oh ell, I guess, right? I don't have the $$ for the OEM parts. Don't forget to TURN the back piston--no C-clamp.

 

The man who services his own car ...
- saves money
- learns more about how his car works
- takes pride in his skill and self-reliance

... and this applies to the female home mechanic too!

 

Quite frankly, this is inaccurate and misleading at best.

There is no physical size difference between a Nissan OEM rotor and a Brembo blank aftermarket rotor (or Bendix rotor, Raybestos rotor, AC Delco rotor, etc.). The main difference I've observed is quality control and the specific metal used, but even that is splitting hairs.

Aftermarket pads such as Axxis Metalmasters or Porterfields make a distinct difference in stopping ability. I know because I have compared them on my own vehicles.

Nissan pads are good pads for normal driving, but you can save at least $20 and get some decent Bendix or Performance Friction Carbon pads at Advance Auto Parts/Auto Zone for $25 or $30.

Through the use of a Nissan front brake hardware kit (using the rubberized shims only....DO NOT use the additional metal one to go on the pad that the caliper touches) and some blue disc brake quiet, my 99 brakes with Axxis pads are nice and silent.

 

Daniel, you're quite right. The things I most enjoy about working on my car are: a) I learn so much, and b) I can trust what I do because I can SEE IT. Unless you're friends with your mechanic, you can't watch, and to me ... well...when I post about my UDP install you can see why I HATE mechanics, especially dealership service centers!

Just need to get my pictures developed and scanned.

ANyway, Bill, what do you mean by rubberized shims? I am dumb! My brakes are making noise when I let off them, just normal noise that all my other cars made, but I am trying to find ways to make them quieter.

 

very well said indeed!

 

The "Front Brake Hardware" kit alluded to in the sticky maintenance post contains new brake pad shims that go on the outside of your brake pads. Two of these shims are metal coated in rubber or something similar to keep the noise down. In addition, there is another metal only shim that goes on the brake pad that the piston compresses against when braking. In my experience this metal shim is useless and only creates more noise. Applying blue goop to just the rubber coated shims on each pad will allow for quiet, squeal-free braking for a long time to come.

 

now there seems to be a grinding sound coming from my driver-side front wheel. This is not the metal on metal sound one hears when they are driving around with absolutely no pad surface left. They are performance friction carbon-metallics from Autozone, and I only did the fronts, due to a lack of loot. The lack of loot is also the cause for my not buying a brake hardware kit from Nissan. They quoted me some absurd price, upwards of $50 for a couple of shims and glorified paper clips (springs). When I pulled the old pads, though they had been squealing for approx. 2 weeks, there was still about 1/8-1/4 inch of friction material still on the pad. I changed them anyway. I replaced the springs, but there were no shims on the pads. I'm guessing that this could be the cause of the squeeking, but it was fine for about a day, then the squealing is back, accompanied by a sound that is quite difficult to describe. It is a grinding/grating noise that is present whenever the car is in motion, whether or not the brakes are being applied. It sounds like maybe one of the springs has popped out of place, and it is rubbing the vented edge of the rotor. Well, at least that is my only theory at this point. I know they were in place when I put them in, but it could be that they wiggled themselves loose, or something to that effect. I'm sorry for the lengthy post, but it has been bothering me, and I haven't had time to pull the wheels again to take a look. Anyway, I have read the stickys, and I have heard nothing of my problem, so I ask here. If anyone else has any ideas, let me know. The only flaw in my theory about the cause of the squealing being a lack of shims is that I drove the car for at least five months and 3,500 miles before the noise started, meaning the noise should have started sooner, if the lack of shims was indeed the culprit. Anyway, I'm baffled, if you can't already tell, and so I ramble......



Lee

 

You usually run into these little bugs when you use other than OEM pads. Your brakes are probably fine. Just the mesh of those materials cause that un-wanted resonance. Also, your problem may also be because one part was forgotten, like those thin plates you put between the the pad and the piston. They look like they do absolutely nothing, but they help reduce any un-wanted vibration.

One time I installed my brakes and forgot a washer on a nut. No biggie, I thought. Drove around, that caliper was clanking all over the place. Made my car sound like it was falling apart!! Replaced the washer and everything was perfect.

DW

 

Thanks, Bill...I am a little slow...but you already knew that AHAHAA. Come on, I'm a GIRL! I have to go get some of that goop.

 

Ask for Permatex Disk Brake Quiet or CRC Disk Brake Quiet. See
http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...&item_no=80077

These anti-squeal products are sometimes referred to by the slang name Blue Goo. The Permatex DBQ is blue but the CRC DBQ is red.

 

I think I'm gonna have to make this a sticky add-on.....

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Lime
I just changed my front/rear pads last week. Yo uwill notice that, at least with aftermarket pads, the brakes will makemore noise. Oh ell, I guess, right? I don't have the $$ for the OEM parts. Don't forget to TURN the back piston--no C-clamp. [/QUOT

I installed new Fr. & Rr Pads from Raybestos (PGs & ProStop). I used 6"C-clamp on the back piston, I did slightly damaged the boot. What else worse can happen?
after three days of driving, so far, everything works good.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by carlmax5

Quote:

Originally posted by Lime
I just changed my front/rear pads last week. Yo uwill notice that, at least with aftermarket pads, the brakes will makemore noise. Oh ell, I guess, right? I don't have the $$ for the OEM parts. Don't forget to TURN the back piston--no C-clamp. [/QUOT

I installed new Fr. & Rr Pads from Raybestos (PGs & ProStop). I used 6"C-clamp on the back piston, I did slightly damaged the boot. What else worse can happen?
after three days of driving, so far, everything works good.

Dirt will eventually work it's way in there and the caliper will start to get sticky and eventually seize over the long run. How did you use a c-clamp on it, they don't go straight in, they turn at the same time? If you forced it sraight in you could have caused other damage as well. That said, I wouldn't stress over it too much. When you eventually notice the brakes aren't engaging smoothly, just go to the junk yard and buy another caliper. Or you could head this off at the pass and get a re-build kit now and replace the seal, but it could be years before you notice any problems. When they do occur, it's not like the brakes are all of a sudden going to fail, causing a safety issue, you'll have warning. Hope this helps.