CKNY

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I'm trying to replace a broken wheel stud and I have the caliper and brake pads off but now I'm having trouble removing the rotor. How does it come off? The chiltons manual is very vague with this, it says to remove the wheel bearing but makes no mention of how to remove it... can anyone elaborate for me how to remove the rotor so that I can replace this stud?

Thanks
Chris

Daniel B. Martin

Rotors are usually easy to remove. If your rotors don't come off with finger pressure whack them with a rubber mallet.

If the mallet doesn't do the trick, you may resort to two 8mmx1.25 bolts. Put a drop of oil on the bolt threads and screw them into the threaded holes in the rotor. Make them finger tight, and then use a wrench to turn them clockwise 1/4 turn, alternately.

You said that Chilton was "very vague". I respectfully disagree. Chilton gives specific advice on page 9-11.

Synki

Are you doing the front or rears?

With the fronts, you have to take off the caliper. After that the rotor should come off but usually doesnt. Like DBM mentioned, whack at it with a rubber mallet. Take a few good whacks at it. I will come off.

sickmen

iTrader: (1)

It will come out easily but first you need a healthy arm to do this kind of job! LOL

Daniel B. Martin

Having reread your post I think your problem may not be rust locking the rotor to the hub. Your problem may be a lack of information. You mention having the caliper and pads off but you did not mention removing the torque member. That has to come off too.

Daniel B. Martin

Buy a new wheel lug and lug nut. Note the splines on the shoulder of the lug. That's what keeps the lug seated in the hub and prevents it from turning when the lug nut is loosened or tightened.

Loosen all four remaining lug nuts one full turn. Jack the corner of the car. You won't be crawling under the car so a jackstand won't be required. Remove the wheel.

The brake caliper is fastened to the torque member with 2 bolts. Remove the lower of the two and swing the caliper up as far as it will go. Remove the brake pads.

The torque member is fastened to the steering knuckle with 2 bolts. Remove both bolts. Don't let that caliper dangle; use a piece of stiff wire to hang it from one of the strut spring coils.

Remove the rotor. No bolts, it just pulls off. Now you are looking at the hub.

Rotate the hub so that the broken lug is aligned with the cutout in the stamped steel baffle plate. The cutout is where the caliper was located before you removed it. Use a hammer and punch of suitable size to drive the broken lug inward. It will fall free of the hub.

Insert the new lug into the hole in the hub. Put some kind of spacer over the lug threads. The manual suggests 4 flat washers. Put a drop of oil on the threads and screw the lug nut backwards onto the lug. "Backwards" means to have the flat face of the lug nut bearing against the washers. Tighten the lug nut until it bottoms. That draws the lug into proper position in the hub. Remove the lug nut and washers.

Reassemble all of the removed parts. Tighten the five lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds.

This may seem like a lot of work but it really isn't. You can do this in less than an hour, without prior experience. If you've done this job before you can do it in 30 minutes.

MadMaxBrent

Applicable to 3rd Gen Maximas also, or just 4th Gen?

Brent.