from what i can tell , it does not seem like a hard replacement to do myself ( maybe long )

should i order brand new one ? or get used ? or try to repair the old one ? ( my current one did not pass continuity test in my Haynes manual )


96 max SE auto

yelp !

 

How can you tell that yours does not work properly?

 

check engine and when you diagnose the ecu it will spit out the code tellin gyou what exactly is wrong. I just did the tes on my car yesturday and i got "knock sensor" and "evap control valve" codes.

 

He states in his post, 'Mine did not pass the continuity test'. I had a value of 542, but still ha the 0304 and ONLY the 0304 code come up.

 

How do you get the ECU to go into diagnostic mode to check the problem(s)?

 

"coolant sensor knock sensor"

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=65431

check that post in the 4th gen forum, its one page back. dont try to repair the old or bother with a used one unless you know it works and is already out of the donor car.

 

Please read the Sticky ECU Diagnostic Trouble Codes. The first post in that thread points you to a Web site which contains detailed instructions.

 

back to the original post.. any suggestions on what i should do ? i know i can run the car as is.. but peace of mind tells me "get it fixed / repaired "

replace on own ? where is cheapest?
pay someone to do it (quote $590 parts and labor !!@!#$ )
repair the defective unit (is this possible ?)
go to junk yard for unit ?

 

I think you pull the kick panel off and then turn the dial on side of ecu somehow... thats what it was on my old 3rd gen

 

Raise the hood. View the engine from the driver's fender. Look into the deep valley between the cylinder banks and below the intake manifold. Identify the KS as a black item fastened to the block by a single vertical bolt with a 14mm hex head. A wire harness wrapped in black leads toward you, out of the valley. That is the KS sub-harness.

The manual says you have to remove the intake manifold to replace the KS. That's the reason for the $590 estimate. However, I think that a person with good dexterity and a 14mm ratcheting box wrench could replace the KS without disturbing the manifold. That would be a time-saving shortcut.

The KS is fairly expensive. If you always fuel with 91 AKI (or better) you may consider ignoring the DTC 0304.

 

by disturbing, do you mean that if i were to try to remove it.. i might be at risk at damaging it ?

and also.. i do fuel with 93 on every fueling...


hmm
also got a code for water separating kit is missding.. nissan tells me there was a modification done to 96's involving the water separator kit.... any idea what the heck this means ?
i know it's in the rear someplace... but no more info and i could not seem to get unconfused with my haynes

maybe i need to do a little more research.. but from what i understand here.. i should be able to run just fine without doing anything.. so time is not of the essence here i guess

 

Let me clarify that statement... I think that a person with good dexterity and a 14mm ratcheting box wrench could replace the KS without removing the manifold.

Please cite the four-number code.

 

unless you have hands like a 5 year old you wont be able to replace the sensor without removing the intkake manifold.

remove the periphial equipment attached to the manifold.

upper manifold: 6 bolts/nuts 4 in the front 2 on rear support bracket and 2 on EGR pipe.

fuel rail: 4 bolts

lower manifold: 8 nuts

be careful not to lose any nuts bolts washer during removal. do not break any vacuum hoses or fittings associated with the vacuum system.

have fun as far as the $590 estimate where did you get that from???

the sensor cost me 160 flat and labor was 130.

 

By the way, the knock sensor bolt is a 12mm, NOT a 14.

I purchased a genuine Nissan knock sensor off ebay for $91 shipped, and was able to install it without removing the intake manifold.

I remembered what someone else had posted about using a 1/4" drive 12mm socket attached to a 1/4" swivel. (these smaller swivels will work at sharper angles than 3/8" drive) This is what I did, and it worked for me. Be sure to use a GOOD 1/4" swivel, since your're right at its angular limit.

Another option (probably better) is to use a 3/8" drive 12mm IMPACT swivel socket. These are PIN DRIVE, and work better at extreme angles. They are larger in diameter, but that is not an issue here. If it's still a bit tight, a 'wobble' extension will make things work.

Some putty or tape on the socket makes installation easier. (I just got my wife, who has small hands to reach in there and start the bolt for me)

Good Luck!

 

woah talk about back from the dead!!!