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Spring install problem - pls help

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Old Oct 1, 2001 | 06:33 AM
  #1  
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Spring install problem - pls help

Put in H&R springs this weekend.
[Thanks for the help Nick]
Went ok - aside for two trips to NAPA for a socket large enough for the compressor
and more sockets when the cheap ones broke.
Also broke two socket wrenches trying to get bolts loose.
Ended up going to a garage and they used an air wrench.
Yeah, so anyway, the problem:
The driver’s side front went they way it was supposed to.
But the passenger side front was weird.
It was hard to get the strut off - there was no clearance.
The whole assembly [rotor, a-arms etc] didn’t drop down at all [like the other side did]
but was "pushing up" instead.
Once the bolts were off, the bottom of the strut was pressed against the rubber boot protecting the drive shaft.
I put the new spring on and when I tried to put the strut back, same thing - no room.
I had to step on the rotor to force it down so the holes in the strut would align with the holes in the knuckle.
This just doesn’t seem right.
I was able to get it back together [does cursing really help?].
So I took it out for a little test drive and I hear knocking from the passenger front.
I pop the hood and push down on the fender and I can see the "Top Hat" moving up and down a little.
I know it shouldn’t do this but I don’t know why it is doing it.
I am 99.99% sure I put it all back the right way.
And it was such a b!tch to get it out and back in that I don’t really want to take it all apart again.
OK, so any thought on why it was a problem
and any thoughts on why it is knocking now?
Please help.
Thanks in advance guys.
Old Oct 1, 2001 | 07:06 AM
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Make sure the three bolts on the "top hat" are torqued correctly. I cant explain the clearance problem. But, the clearance issues may not have let you get the strut seated correctly up top. As soon as you put the car back down and drove, it was forced into position, but now the nuts are loose. If the nuts are tight, but it still moves...I have no iead what your problem might be.
Old Oct 1, 2001 | 07:24 AM
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I've had the same problem with my Maxima and the tight clearance. You have to snake in the strut and push down a bit on the rotor to get it to fit. I too have had the movement you describe and the noises. After trying everything (removing it and reinstalling), it didn't go away. I said screw it and it finally went away after a month.

A couple weeks ago, I installed Intrax springs in place of my Suspension Techniques springs. Now I've got strange noises going over rutted surfaces. Once again I pulled apart everything and I still get the noises. I said screw it, once again.

The Maxima suspension is a very screwy thing. It seems like many people have problems with noises when you change out springs or struts.


Dave
Old Oct 1, 2001 | 07:24 AM
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Originally posted by mzmtg
Make sure the three bolts on the "top hat" are torqued correctly. I cant explain the clearance problem. But, the clearance issues may not have let you get the strut seated correctly up top. As soon as you put the car back down and drove, it was forced into position, but now the nuts are loose. If the nuts are tight, but it still moves...I have no iead what your problem might be.
Thanks, but...
I put on a FTSB a while ago, and I didn't have a troque wrench, so I just cranked the nuts down untill they were good and tight.
No problem after that.
I did the same thing this time after the springs were installed.
No problem on the driver side.
On the passenger side, it isn't the three bolts/nuts that are moving - they are good and tight.
When I bounce the fender I can see the top of the strut with the one nut/bolt on it [that is what I meant by the "top hat" - maybe that's called something else?] moving up and down a little in the hole that is in the middle of the FTSB brace [between the 3 nuts].
Old Oct 1, 2001 | 07:30 AM
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Originally posted by Dave B
I've had the same problem with my Maxima and the tight clearance. You have to snake in the strut and push down a bit on the rotor to get it to fit. I too have had the movement you describe and the noises. After trying everything (removing it and reinstalling), it didn't go away. I said screw it and it finally went away after a month.

A couple weeks ago, I installed Intrax springs in place of my Suspension Techniques springs. Now I've got strange noises going over rutted surfaces. Once again I pulled apart everything and I still get the noises. I said screw it, once again.

The Maxima suspension is a very screwy thing. It seems like many people have problems with noises when you change out springs or struts.


Dave
I'd like to think it would go away.
But it is good on one side, bad on the other and I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be moving.
I'm afraid I might even do some damage if I hit a bad bump. But for the life of me I can't figure out why it would move. I also can't figure out why it wouldn't drop. When it happened to you, did it only happen on one side and which one?
Old Oct 1, 2001 | 07:39 AM
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You cut the bumpstops, right?

Originally posted by fast97maxse

I'd like to think it would go away.
But it is good on one side, bad on the other and I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be moving.
I'm afraid I might even do some damage if I hit a bad bump. But for the life of me I can't figure out why it would move. I also can't figure out why it wouldn't drop. When it happened to you, did it only happen on one side and which one?
I hope you did. Alls else I can say is tighten that nut up more. You should retorque everything on the ground. I did it in the air, and when I lowered it on the ground and checked the torque I got that nut to spin like 3 more rotations.
Old Oct 1, 2001 | 07:47 AM
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Re: You cut the bumpstops, right?

Originally posted by BRIGBOY


I hope you did. Alls else I can say is tighten that nut up more. You should retorque everything on the ground. I did it in the air, and when I lowered it on the ground and checked the torque I got that nut to spin like 3 more rotations.
No, I didn't. I read some posts that said you didn't need to trim the bumpstops for H&R springs.
I figured it would be better to try it out without cutting them first and if I needed to, I could always trim them later.
And yes, I put the strut assembly together on the ground, but of course the two lower bolts and the top three couldn't be tightened until the strut was back on.
Now I can't remember, but I'm pretty sure I tightened up the top 3 bolts on both sides while the car was still up on the jackstands.
Old Oct 1, 2001 | 10:48 AM
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I just did the H&R install 2 weeks ago. First off, did you have both wheels off the ground while you did the install? If you only did one side at a time, your front SWAY bar is what kept your hubs from dropping down. If only one side is off the ground, the sway bar will force the other side UP! Thats probably why your hub didn't drop down as it should have. The only result of that was your tough intall. As far as your other issues, the top hat is made of rubber and does move SLIGHTLY up and down. Make sure you torque everything once the car is on the ground. Tourqure specs are as follows: Top strut blot 50 Ft lbs. The strut mount nuts (3 of them) should be around 30 - 35 ft lbs.

The only other things I will tell you is that you may or may not nitice some noise as you turn your steering wheel. Mine is making some crunching noise, I've had the F___ing thing apart 3 times, also replaced the strut bearings and still the same noise. My conclusion is that these springs are stiffer then stock and some of them do make a slight noise as you trun the wheel. It appears to be coming from where the spring sits on the strut and upper cap. I can make the noise stop by spraying lubricant on the surfaces where the spring sits. Usually keeps things quiet for a day or so. I don't think it's anythig to worry about, perhaps after they set up a while this shall stop.

My car is heading to the alighment shop in about an hour, I will tell him to take a peak at my install and explain the noise I hear. I wil give you an update as to what they find out.

Also, you may need a camber kit to get the car alignment in spec again, I have the kit, we'll see today if it really is needed.

Hope this helps you out.
Old Oct 1, 2001 | 11:02 AM
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Originally posted by njmaxseltd
I just did the H&R install 2 weeks ago. First off, did you have both wheels off the ground while you did the install? If you only did one side at a time, your front SWAY bar is what kept your hubs from dropping down. If only one side is off the ground, the sway bar will force the other side UP! Thats probably why your hub didn't drop down as it should have. The only result of that was your tough intall. As far as your other issues, the top hat is made of rubber and does move SLIGHTLY up and down. Make sure you torque everything once the car is on the ground. Tourqure specs are as follows: Top strut blot 50 Ft lbs. The strut mount nuts (3 of them) should be around 30 - 35 ft lbs.

The only other things I will tell you is that you may or may not nitice some noise as you turn your steering wheel. Mine is making some crunching noise, I've had the F___ing thing apart 3 times, also replaced the strut bearings and still the same noise. My conclusion is that these springs are stiffer then stock and some of them do make a slight noise as you trun the wheel. It appears to be coming from where the spring sits on the strut and upper cap. I can make the noise stop by spraying lubricant on the surfaces where the spring sits. Usually keeps things quiet for a day or so. I don't think it's anythig to worry about, perhaps after they set up a while this shall stop.

My car is heading to the alighment shop in about an hour, I will tell him to take a peak at my install and explain the noise I hear. I wil give you an update as to what they find out.

Also, you may need a camber kit to get the car alignment in spec again, I have the kit, we'll see today if it really is needed.

Hope this helps you out.
Thanks
I borrowed a hydralic lift and had the car up on jack stands - both sides at once.
Did both fronts then both rears.
Had to take the FTSB off to do the spring install.
Still don't know what was going on with the front passenger side...
I have read some posts where the bearing was replaced - but I didn't see any bearing on my 97, just rubber and plastic "washers".
No noise when I turn the wheel, just the knocking noise on bumps from the front passenger side only.
So, it is ok if the top of the strut is moving up and down a little when I push on the fender?
Why does it only happen on one side?
Did you trim your bump stops?
Yes, please let me know what your shop says.
And thanks for the torque specs.
Old Oct 1, 2001 | 11:27 AM
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Originally posted by fast97maxse

Thanks
I borrowed a hydralic lift and had the car up on jack stands - both sides at once. Did both fronts then both rears.
Had to take the FTSB off to do the spring install.
I had to take the FSTB out as well. I didn't put it back in till I was 100% sure everything was good.

[i]
Still don't know what was going on with the front passenger side...
I have read some posts where the bearing was replaced - but I didn't see any bearing on my 97, just rubber and plastic "washers".
No noise when I turn the wheel, just the knocking noise on bumps from the front passenger side only.
So, it is ok if the top of the strut is moving up and down a little when I push on the fender?[/B]
The plastic washer you saw was actually a bearing. It was grey on one side and white on the other??? That was the strut bearing, you must be 100% sure it was put on the correct way or you will have some issues. I put both on backwards when I put the thing together, the bearing cost me 40 bucks for the set of 2 from Nissan.[/B][/QUOTE]

[i]
Why does it only happen on one side?
[/B]
I have a theory about this "one side noise". I think it's actually both sides making some noise but being you sit in the left side of the car, the noise appears to be coming only from the right side. I think it's actually both sides which are making some noise. I can't see any reason why everybody says it's only the right side. That just doesn't make sense to me.[/B][/QUOTE]

[i]
Did you trim your bump stops?[/B]
NOPE - no reason to, the drop isn't enough to hit them.

[i]
Yes, please let me know what your shop says.
And thanks for the torque specs. [/B]
I'm headed out the door now to drop the car off, I'll be picking it up after work, should be home later tonight to post what the shop says.
Old Oct 1, 2001 | 12:28 PM
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I think you should have trimmed your bumpstops.

Originally posted by njmaxseltd


I had to take the FSTB out as well. I didn't put it back in till I was 100% sure everything was good.



The plastic washer you saw was actually a bearing. It was grey on one side and white on the other??? That was the strut bearing, you must be 100% sure it was put on the correct way or you will have some issues. I put both on backwards when I put the thing together, the bearing cost me 40 bucks for the set of 2 from Nissan.


I have a theory about this "one side noise". I think it's actually both sides making some noise but being you sit in the left side of the car, the noise appears to be coming only from the right side. I think it's actually both sides which are making some noise. I can't see any reason why everybody says it's only the right side. That just doesn't make sense to me.[/B][/QUOTE]



NOPE - no reason to, the drop isn't enough to hit them.



I'm headed out the door now to drop the car off, I'll be picking it up after work, should be home later tonight to post what the shop says. [/B][/QUOTE]

Go out front right now and tighten those three bolts up again, the center bolt too! It was a specific instruction to cut the bumpstops that came with my Eibachs.
Old Oct 1, 2001 | 12:41 PM
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Re: I think you should have trimmed your bumpstops.

Go out front right now and tighten those three bolts up again, the center bolt too!
It was a specific instruction to cut the bumpstops that came with my Eibachs. [/B]
Depending on what time it is, how dark it is and the weather when I get home,
I will try to tighten the bolts.
Well, I think I'll take the FTSB off and put it on again.
I'm not sure about the bolt on the top of the strut though.
When I took the strut assembly apart I counted the number of threads
that were showing above the nut and tried to put it back on to match.
I used the tire wrench to "jam" the three mounting bolts so the strut bolt wouldn't just spin around.
The directions that came with the H&Rs were pitiful - basically useless.
Didn't say anything about nothing. Not a word about bump stops...
Old Oct 2, 2001 | 05:51 AM
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H&R install update

Just got the car back from the alignment shop. I had the guy go over my install, told him about the noise and exactly what I did and what I thought. He confirmed it is only the right front upper mount making noise. Sounds like it's grinding on something up in the strut tower. We both can't see anything that it can possibly hit up there, although someone on here mentioned a bolt somewhere up there?? I'm going to investigate this again this weekend. But overall, the install looks great, I used all the oem spring isolators and they all seem to be seated correctly. I didn't need the camber kit, he was able to pull it all in with just the play in the strut mounts. Toe was way out. The car rides and tracks amazing now. Nice and tight, dead straight and not a single vibration at any speed. Feels like a high end sports car now. Quiet ride, only noise is when you park it you sometimes get that right front strut to make noise, but it's not all the time. This morning pulling out of my driveway it was quiet. Strange huh? Overall I'm happy with it, gives the max a totally different feel on the road.
Old Oct 2, 2001 | 11:24 AM
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Originally posted by Dave B
I've had the same problem with my Maxima and the tight clearance. You have to snake in the strut and push down a bit on the rotor to get it to fit. I too have had the movement you describe and the noises. After trying everything (removing it and reinstalling), it didn't go away. I said screw it and it finally went away after a month.

A couple weeks ago, I installed Intrax springs in place of my Suspension Techniques springs. Now I've got strange noises going over rutted surfaces. Once again I pulled apart everything and I still get the noises. I said screw it, once again.

The Maxima suspension is a very screwy thing. It seems like many people have problems with noises when you change out springs or struts.


Dave
I also have the intrax Dave, what kind of a noise is it when you hit rutted surfaces? like a buzzing rattle sort of?
Oh and what the hell is a bump stop? I know it says to cut like an inch off of it, but I don't know what it is? That might be why I have the noise but I don't know, someone help WHAT IS THE BUMP STOP AND HOW DO YOU CUT IT?
Old Oct 2, 2001 | 11:36 AM
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Yep, it's kind of a rattling/banging noise. It only happens on lightly rutted surfaces. It appears to be coming from the rear. All I can figure is it's the coils. I also get some noises from the front on rutted surfaces too, but that's always happened. I've pretty much learned to live with it like with most of the noises that come from my car on certain surfaces when the weather is just so and Saturn is aligned with Jupiter.

I swear, everytime you mod a car, a new noise appears and another goes away.


Dave
Old Oct 2, 2001 | 11:39 AM
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Originally posted by GTRBlkMax97


I also have the intrax Dave, what kind of a noise is it when you hit rutted surfaces? like a buzzing rattle sort of?
Oh and what the hell is a bump stop? I know it says to cut like an inch off of it, but I don't know what it is? That might be why I have the noise but I don't know, someone help WHAT IS THE BUMP STOP AND HOW DO YOU CUT IT?
For me, the noise is a kind of rattle or knocking.
When I push down on the passenger side front I can see the top of the strut move up and down a little and I hear the noise. It sounds worse from inside the car - the structure of the car amplifies it - kind of like when you eat capt. crunch and can't hear anything but chewing...

The bump stop is a black rubber "thing" under the accordian/pleated rubber sleeve at the top of the strut. It goes "in and out" [not straight] kind of like a couple of # eights stacked one on top of the other. Sounds a little wierd, but when you see it you'll know what I'm trying to describe. It is made out of hard rubber and you should be able to cut it with a utility knife. Be careful not to nick the metal rod. Also, at least for H&R springs this isn't needed [from what I've read here and my experience so far].
Other springs may need this. If you bottom out on big bumps then maybe you should cut it. This will give the strut a little more "travel". You might try cutting just a half inch off and checking it out - you can allways cut more later if you need to, but if you want to add some back to it, you'll have to buy and install new ones...
Old Oct 2, 2001 | 11:43 AM
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When I put in a hi-flow filter my car made a new noise.
But it is a good thing.
My right foot likes it too.

The spring/strut rattle though, bad.
[And not bad meaning good.]
Old Oct 2, 2001 | 05:36 PM
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Buzzing Rattle

One of you mentioned that you hear a "buzzing rattle" when you go over rutted surfaces. That sounds like a pretty acurate depiction of the sound that I hear when going over some ruts and small bumps. It always comes from the back of the car, but it doesn't always appear. My suspension is stock, aside from a FSTB (and a RSB coming soon), so I never suspected the springs. I've been thinking lately that maybe it was the trunk lid rattling somehow. The noise seems to decrease when there is some weight in the back seat (1 person), but increase when there are two or three. I'm really stumped as to what is causing it since I haven't modified the springs.
Old Oct 2, 2001 | 07:07 PM
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Re: Buzzing Rattle

this is all my fault, i'm a bad suspension consultant.
Old Oct 2, 2001 | 07:42 PM
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Ok, I have Intrax springs and I did the install which was a b*tch to do. Took me about 8 hours due to putting the strut components in incorrectly. All I can say is, after the first install, I was hearing a metal to metal clunking in the rear 2 struts when I drove and a clunking in the front right. I then jacked the car back up and noticed that I had aligned the of the strut components in the wrong order which proved that I had a metal piece hitting another aonther piece. I redid it by putting it in the right order making sure that when the spring was compressed that it would always be rubber to metal. I also noticed in the front that I had left out a component, stupid me. It was a gray component (when I say component, I truly can't remember the name) looked like a flat plastic little donut that I had left on the floor when I finished the first install. Redid everything and everything came out perfectly. I know what you mean when you open the hood and see the strut shaft go up and down when you push down on the car. I used the torque wrench and torqued it to the specifications according to the how2 install on maximadriver.com. I drove it around and noticed I had a little clunking still in the front right (it could have been both sides like the previous poster said)so I thought maybe I didn't torque the strut shafts in the front tight enough, I had trouble since the shaft moves whenevr I try to tighten it, so my uncle used an air tool and tightened it to I think 50lbs, not sure, but he thought it was too much, I said its in the installation instructions, he took my word and when I drove off, no more clunking. Sorry for the long post, this is just my personal experience, hope it helps you somewhere.
Old Oct 3, 2001 | 09:11 AM
  #21  
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Originally posted by fast97maxse


The bump stop is a black rubber "thing" under the accordian/pleated rubber sleeve at the top of the strut. It goes "in and out" [not straight] kind of like a couple of # eights stacked one on top of the other. Sounds a little wierd, but when you see it you'll know what I'm trying to describe. It is made out of hard rubber and you should be able to cut it with a utility knife. Be careful not to nick the metal rod. Also, at least for H&R springs this isn't needed [from what I've read here and my experience so far].
Other springs may need this. If you bottom out on big bumps then maybe you should cut it. This will give the strut a little more "travel". You might try cutting just a half inch off and checking it out - you can allways cut more later if you need to, but if you want to add some back to it, you'll have to buy and install new ones...
Can you cut this without taking the struts out?
Old Oct 3, 2001 | 09:21 AM
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Originally posted by GTRBlkMax97


Can you cut this without taking the struts out?
That would be a definate maybe.
It would be easy enough to check out though.
Jack it up, take off the wheel, push up on the accordian rubber sleeve to expose the bumpstop.
If you can see enough of it, I would think you could probably get a utility knife in between the coils and cut it a bit at a time. I think you will be able to rotate the bumpstop on the piston shaft so you can cut it all the way around. It would probably help to have someone hold the outer sleeve out of the way when you do this.
Old Oct 8, 2001 | 06:27 AM
  #23  
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ARGHHHH!!! I am having the SAME EXACT PROBLEM with my right rear strut. It CLUNKING argh I can't take it, I don't want to break anything...what should I do???? I installed the H&R's and the frints are FINE, with the FSTB, but the rear is a frickin noisy MESS. I need to replace the spacers, but I can't determine what the noise is. Should I take the spring apart or have a "professional" reinstall the rears?? I don't want to break anything, and the noise drives me nuts.

I AM TIRED OF YUCKY NOISES! Medic's 95 makes no noise and he has tokico's/H&R's like myself.

As far as the small moan, it's coming from above my rear brakes...I am replacing the rotors this week sometime I hope; the rear rotors are shot. (don't know why that would make a noise, but they need to be replaced anyway, with a brake line bleed.)
Old Oct 8, 2001 | 06:28 AM
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Originally posted by Lime
ARGHHHH!!! I am having the SAME EXACT PROBLEM with my right rear strut. It CLUNKING argh I can't take it, I don't want to break anything...what should I do???? I installed the H&R's and the frints are FINE, with the FSTB, but the rear is a frickin noisy MESS. I need to replace the spacers, but I can't determine what the noise is. Should I take the spring apart or have a "professional" reinstall the rears?? I don't want to break anything, and the noise drives me nuts.

I AM TIRED OF YUCKY NOISES! Medic's 95 makes no noise and he has tokico's/H&R's like myself.

As far as the small moan, it's coming from above my rear brakes...I am replacing the rotors this week sometime I hope; the rear rotors are shot. (don't know why that would make a noise, but they need to be replaced anyway, with a brake line bleed.)
Professional...
Old Oct 8, 2001 | 06:33 AM
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BTW, we actually put all the rubber sleeves back on, new dust covers, everything...the right rear is CLANKING over bumps, not on turns, noise gets lesser at higher speeds.

medic, if you're mad at me, take it to the PM's.
Old Oct 8, 2001 | 06:44 AM
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Originally posted by Lime
BTW, we actually put all the rubber sleeves back on, new dust covers, everything...the right rear is CLANKING over bumps, not on turns, noise gets lesser at higher speeds.

medic, if you're mad at me, take it to the PM's.
I said my piece, that is all.
Old Oct 8, 2001 | 06:50 AM
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silent spring!

I solved my noise problem this weekend!
My problem was a rattle/knocking sound from the passenger front strut. I could see it moved up and down a little when I pressed down on the fender.
[I did not experience any of the grinding/crunching noise others have reported, so I don't know if this will help you peeps with that problem. But maybe...]

I thought I'd have to take the whole thing apart, but I didn't.
I just tightened down the nut at the top of the strut - the one you can see through the hole between the 3 mounting nuts.
[Thanks njmaxseltd!]

My mistake was two things.
One, I had tightend the nut while the whole strut assembly was still off the car. This is how I took it apart, so it was how I put it back together.
Two, I only tighted the nut down so that the same number of threads were showing above the nut as showed before I took it apart.

It was a snap. took me all of 5 minutes, if that.

LIME - I'd try tighting up the top strut nuts in the back [don't know the torque specs] but if you don't have a torque wrench - or even if you do - just tighten them up untill you can't any more. Don't go crazy on em, just make em nice and snug.
This might solve your problem.
If not, well, it's a simple thing to try...
Old Oct 8, 2001 | 08:51 AM
  #28  
Lime's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,154
argh they are tight. I am going to have to take them out, decompress the springs, and do the thing over again I think...with lots more rubber tubing everywhere. I looked up like every thread on the subject, and it it metal-metal contact, so I will insulate everything even more than it is now...I did put on those rubber sleeves, but it didn't help....
Old Oct 8, 2001 | 09:01 AM
  #29  
fast97maxse's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 598
Originally posted by Lime
argh they are tight. I am going to have to take them out, decompress the springs, and do the thing over again I think...with lots more rubber tubing everywhere. I looked up like every thread on the subject, and it it metal-metal contact, so I will insulate everything even more than it is now...I did put on those rubber sleeves, but it didn't help....
Well, good luck Lime.
At least the rears are easier than the fronts.
Maybe it's the way you put them back together?
I mean, the tubing idea is a good one, and might help, but the stock springs only have a little bit of plastic on them at the bottom, so it should work with the new springs.

When I did my install, I took those plastic sleeves off the stock springs and put them on my H&Rs
- and, once I fixed the front spring problem, it's all been good.
Old Oct 8, 2001 | 09:16 AM
  #30  
Lime's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,154
well, I am going to try a few things...hopefully sometime ASAP. Since I just got some hardly used rotors, and I have to install them anyway, it shouldn't be too big of a deal. I just want the noise to GO AWAY...very irritating and I just feel like I am damaging something every time it makes the noise.
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