Stupid Knock Sensor won't come out...
Stupid Knock Sensor won't come out...
I tried the DBMartin technique of using a 12 mm wrench and some small hands in there, but even with WD40 applied liberally, the retaining bolt will not come loose. WITHOUT TAKING OFF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, does anyone have any other ideas on how to loosen it?
Re: Stupid Knock Sensor won't come out...
How about a small ratchet and socket with a little long breaker bar type extension on the ratcket handle? Mabye a high quality ball swivel would help?
Did you try the double wrench trick, using another wrench as an extension on the back of the 12mm?
Did you try the double wrench trick, using another wrench as an extension on the back of the 12mm?
Originally posted by medicsonic
I tried the DBMartin technique of using a 12 mm wrench and some small hands in there, but even with WD40 applied liberally, the retaining bolt will not come loose. WITHOUT TAKING OFF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, does anyone have any other ideas on how to loosen it?
I tried the DBMartin technique of using a 12 mm wrench and some small hands in there, but even with WD40 applied liberally, the retaining bolt will not come loose. WITHOUT TAKING OFF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, does anyone have any other ideas on how to loosen it?
Re: Re: Stupid Knock Sensor won't come out...
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
How about a small ratchet and socket with a little long breaker bar type extension on the ratcket handle? Mabye a high quality ball swivel would help?
Did you try the double wrench trick, using another wrench as an extension on the back of the 12mm?
How about a small ratchet and socket with a little long breaker bar type extension on the ratcket handle? Mabye a high quality ball swivel would help?
Did you try the double wrench trick, using another wrench as an extension on the back of the 12mm?
They are more of an annoyance than anything else. In theory, if you use high octance gas, then they shouldn't cause a problem, however when you check the CEL(check Engine Light) they will trip an error code, but not set off the light itself. They also appear to be a PITA at the drag strips.
Originally posted by medicsonic
They are more of an annoyance than anything else. In theory, if you use high octance gas, then they shouldn't cause a problem, however when you check the CEL(check Engine Light) they will trip an error code, but not set off the light itself. They also appear to be a PITA at the drag strips.
They are more of an annoyance than anything else. In theory, if you use high octance gas, then they shouldn't cause a problem, however when you check the CEL(check Engine Light) they will trip an error code, but not set off the light itself. They also appear to be a PITA at the drag strips.

My sis has been using cheep-@ss 86-oct gas with the sensors in, and everything is running perfectly. She's been using that grade gas for a few years.
Please don't make my grave any bigger medic
Originally posted by Craig Mack
The knock sensors don't decrease/increase anything no matter what gas you use.
My sis has been using cheep-@ss 86-oct gas with the sensors in, and everything is running perfectly. She's been using that grade gas for a few years.
Please don't make my grave any bigger medic
The knock sensors don't decrease/increase anything no matter what gas you use.

My sis has been using cheep-@ss 86-oct gas with the sensors in, and everything is running perfectly. She's been using that grade gas for a few years.
Please don't make my grave any bigger medic
Originally posted by medicsonic
Too bad you have no clue what the hell you are talking about. Lower octane gas causes pinging in our engine. The knock sensor recognizes the pinging and retards the timing to reduce the pinging, with the negative effect of less maximum power produced. You are now about 5 feet deep. Keep going...
Too bad you have no clue what the hell you are talking about. Lower octane gas causes pinging in our engine. The knock sensor recognizes the pinging and retards the timing to reduce the pinging, with the negative effect of less maximum power produced. You are now about 5 feet deep. Keep going...
That should get me a lil' higher..
Originally posted by Craig Mack
You forgot to add that using lower octane gas also results in lower MPG. The loss of power between octane's is so minimal it's debatable.
That should get me a lil' higher..
You forgot to add that using lower octane gas also results in lower MPG. The loss of power between octane's is so minimal it's debatable.
That should get me a lil' higher..
Happy reading bish
Originally posted by medicsonic
Nope, you have nothing to back up your statement and I do. 5.5 feet now.
Nope, you have nothing to back up your statement and I do. 5.5 feet now.
Re: Stupid Knock Sensor won't come out...
Originally posted by medicsonic
I tried the DBMartin technique of using a 12 mm wrench and some small hands in there, but even with WD40 applied liberally, the retaining bolt will not come loose. WITHOUT TAKING OFF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, does anyone have any other ideas on how to loosen it?
I tried the DBMartin technique of using a 12 mm wrench and some small hands in there, but even with WD40 applied liberally, the retaining bolt will not come loose. WITHOUT TAKING OFF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, does anyone have any other ideas on how to loosen it?
Code 0304
I was curious about the sensor because I've spent 3 days this month running hard on a road course, pretty much flat out for 4 25-30 minute sessions each day. Every day, by the third session, I'd get the light. Code 0304. I've always run 93 octane in the car and completed the 60K service prior to the events, so everyone is in good shape mechanically. Do you think it's a Knock issue or a sensor that just gets too much info and wigs out? I don't want to damage the engine if it's knocking repeatedly! Thanks for any input.
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