I'll let the pictures do the talking:









As you can see from above the large pully has separated itself from the assembly...in doing so it slid back tearing up the other belt while shreading the main belt....now how in the hell did this happen and is going with a used part the way to go here?

 

It's not very hard, I would call dave burnette and see how expensive a new crank pulley will b - if strapped a used one will b ok. I would also change out the front crank seal that goes on the TC and fix that leak mayb the valve cover or most likely powersteering leak. also clean that crank sensor below the pulley. Actually pressure clean the whole thing u have dirt caked on ur oil filter-->good luck

 

very easy fix here

jack the front pass side up, remove the plastic engine cover, loosen the idler pulley, remove the broken pulley (crank shaft pulley) and buy 2 new belts, and reverse the instructions with the new belts on - thats it

BTw that part of your engine is really dirty, its not normal, are you missing one of the under engine covers ?

 

Dang dude, it's evident from the grime build-up you haven't done your filter in awhile, plus toss that fram, Bosch 3323 or oem nissan ftmfw, german or japenese= the only way to go.

If you don't have an impact gun and your car is auto (don't know?) than in order to loosen the pulley bolt (19mm) use the new belt, wrap it all the way around the pulley and then tuck it under itself and wrap it around the pulley clockwise a few times and loop it over the oil filter, you'll have to keep tension on it the entire time, it will make sense when you are doing it, it works killer and will hold over 1000 ft/lb's (yes, I pulled that # out of my ****, kinda). If your 5-speed just put it in gear and insert a screwdriver in the passanger side rotor vent (this job is easier if passanger wheel is out of your way, but not required)

 

or just upgrade it and go with a underdrive pulley

 

Happened to me too Bought a new pulley from a stealership for $230. The same part at nissanpartsonline.net is about $170. It also fried my Pos-Ref sensor, so about two weeks later, in one morning car gave me hard start, but no problems afterward for another week. But it was getting worse and every start I had to crank it for about 30 seconds to start. It wasn't throwing me any errors in the begining, only ocasionally CEL 47 & 11. So I had to replace Cran-Pos Ref sensor.

I've heard another method, but never tried it: you have to put a breaker bar, so that it won't fly around your engine compartment and then just crank it for a fraction of second. Starter gives you enough torque for the nut to come loose.

 

I got some nice used pulleys (crank pulleys) for $30ea plus shipping...

 

Thanks for the input...

The dirt you all see is a combination of two things...1 the filter has a "rubber" coating on the tail end...and 2 there is no plastic cover under the car...the car is a beater in every sense of the word...so putting any extra non-essential cash into it...is not worth it...

Thanks again

 

So, if the crank shaft pulley is, for lack of a better word, stuck, how best to remove it?

 

Bumping a 2 year old thread to gain posts...

 

I'm not bumping the thread for posts sir, I am asking a question that I did not see the answer to in the "read me noobs" or common problems of the 4th Gen Maxima threads...

The crank shaft pulley finally came off last night with an impact wrench, but after removing all the bolts from the crank cover, it STILL feels like it is stuck to the engine.

Any ideas on how to remove it without damaging the dang thing?

I would have posted a question, but I don't have the time nor the inclination to go around adding "+1" or "here here!" or "thanks for that!" posts to pad my post count so I can reach the 15 needed to start my own thread about the matter.

Anyone, I ask again, got any ideas? Crank cover seems stuck. Have removed ALL bolts, taken the tensioner plate and water pump plate off, removed the bolt holding the alternator in place (first having removed the bolts of the air conditioning unit in order to even get there).

This water pump has been the monster of all monsters to get to, and after the tensioner plunger and spring shot off into the engine, we had no choice but to remove it and try to fish them out that way, since the magnet on a string has not retrieved them.

I am at my wit's end here guys. Any help would be appreciated. My 1996 Max GLE is a good car; over 246K miles. All I wanted was to stop getting the engine too hot...

 

Crank cover? You mean the timing chain cover? It's sealed to the block using RTV, so you probably have to slip a flexible putty knife in there and try to gently pry it off.

Timing chain cover - oy vey. Are you good at running a bead of RTV sealant around a wildly irregular object? I would wind up with RTV all over myself and random parts of the engine.