scooby68

Mine never once had it die on me in the middle of running it. My only problems were at the end of the turn of the key in start position. At that I diagnosed it pretty quick cause I could press the key a little further and fiddle with it and it would start,but it never stopped running when it ran. It may be something else or you may have more than one issue going on, it happens. Good luck. I just saw my old switch in the garage, I'll see if I can get a pic of it for ya.

19Maximus98

Just ordered the Coolant Temp Sensor and should have it in a few days. The temperature here in MD has dropped from the 70's to the 30's in a week and now the ole' Max is really having a hard time starting. Hopefully this sensor does the trick. Before the BIG drop in outside temps, I found that the car would start after a double crank, cranck engine-stop-repeat. But now that it is 35 degrees in the morning it is taking 3-4 cracks to get going.
If the Coolant sen doesn't work I will probably change the fuel pump. If that doesn't work I will take it to the local shop. I depend on my car so I can't continue to take shots in the dark. I will let you know what happens this weekend.

Double E

I've been watching this thread with interest. I'm having teh same issue & it's getting a lil worse with each cold start. I just know my starter is not liking these long & double starts...

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I think my issue may be intake related. Im going to replace the entire ignition switch with new (hopefully this weekend) just to eliminate it in this situation and in others down the road.
In cleaning the TB today, (I did NOT remove the TB, but will be this weekend, as stated, no tools here) I had the same trouble as I've had starting it, but I could NOT get the darn thing to actually start, I know this isnt too uncommon after a good spray with cleaner and the TB still being on the car, but it made me think that it could have something to do with the intake system moreso than anything else. It would explain a lot. By the way the TB was NASTY I've been forgetting/procrastinating for a long time now. We'll see how it starts tomorrow, but I have a feeling its going to make a difference.

EDIT: The car did start after about 2-5 mins of near constant attempts, And I have been noticing a hesitation in the past month or so(similar to the 'bucking bronco' but its not hardly noticeable, and veery intermittent.)

19Maximus98

Today it sounds as if my starter was on it's last leg. Cold temps make the car even harder to start. I found an old thread, from 2006, that discussed this same topic. After reading that thread I will check all the ground locations for corrosion, replace starter (all these hard starts cannot be good), replace the battery with something newer, and finally replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Now has anyone replaced their fuel pressure regulator? Looks like a PITA with the throttle body in the way, I thought I could do the swap without having to remove the TB, guess not. Any pics or tips on removing the TB would be helpful. Thanks and good luck.

made in china

iTrader: (7)

I had a similar prob. It was my cam position sensor.

Regarding the FPR, I HIGHLY doubt it. On my VQ35, I run a SARD FPR set to 51psi. This FPR is a pile of junk, the fuel pressure will bleed down to <10 psi within 10 seconds of shutting the car off. So, if I try restart it, the fuel pressure will bump up to 51 psi when I first turn the car "ON". After the fuel pump spins up, of course it shuts off until the car is started. Well, sometimes I take my time starting my car (key to START position) and the fuel pressure eventually is around 10 PSI or less when I try and start it. The car fires right up on 10 PSI. And I have driven the car between 30-60 PSI (trying to get it right before I had my electronic fuel press guage) and it drove fine. So....

19Maximus98

Would you mind inlightening me as to where I can find the Cam Position Sensor? Any idea on price of that part? I just left my car at home today and took my wifes, I didn't even want to attempt to start her today.


Question: Does anyone know if a starter from a 2001 I30 will fit a 98 Max??

19Maximus98

Made in China, I checked out the CPS on thepartsbin.com and they show 3 different style CPS for 4 different locations(front engine, back engine, side engine and oil pan) any idea if all these need to be replaced?? At roughly $80 a pop it isn't cheap

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Ok so finally recieved a code, after just before pulling into my rental house driveway the car started bucking and jerking, (only for a couple seconds).. Check the codes again(been checking them daily) and WHOO HOO
guess what CTS. Should have just got it anyways, but im off to autozone right now, hopefully they're open and have it in stock. Ill let you guys know how it turns out.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

great. new CTS, same old problem.
Its getting so bad that I can literally shut the car off, and immediately try and start it back up, and I'll have to crank it for a minute off and on to get it started.
I've ordered the Ignition switch and hopefully it will me at my house this weekend(*crossing fingers) so I can eliminate that. But this is getting bad, so while I'm at home with tools, I'd like to eliminate some other possible causes.
I'm searching again through starting problem threads, just looking for some intuitive advice.

Q's
1. Is there a good way to check the wiring end (harness, etc for the CTS), other than ripping it all out?
2. What else should I be checking for here? Any suggestions/advice
I need the ol girl and she's really stressing me out lately.... help.....please

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

I have the lonnngggg start issue too .... and the temp does affect mine. I have tried the "hit the key / let up / then hit it again" bit and it seems to work ok for me. I don't mind this ... as long as my car starts! that is ... and it doesn't get any worse.

19Maximus98

Tuner, I just spoke with someone that had this same problem and after spending a lot of $$ on unnecessary parts he said it was a simple grounding wire connecting the starter and the tranny. I am going to do this repair this weekend along with the CTS (bought it last week when i thought that was the problem) and I will let you know what happens. He said to attached a grounding cable from the starter bolt (not the Electrical bolts) to the transmission, pick a bolt. Make sure you clean all contact points before you screw anything down. I would also check the ground coming off the battery and clean any corrosion at the attachment points. Keeping my finger crossed.

made in china

iTrader: (7)

Mine was on the timing chain cover in front of the engine mount. Easy to get to.

My car would intermittently not start, die right after starting, or just run fine. I waited until the sensor finally died and the car would not start anymore before replacing it.

heynow

iTrader: (1)

19Maximus98, the CPS you're refferig to is the "crankshaft position sensor", and what made in chine is reffering to is a "camshaft position sensor". I'm not sure how there could be 4, when we only have the "pos" & "ref" CRPS.

As far as the starting issue goes, changing the CTS made a difference for me in starting after the car sits for a bit. It's still not perfect, but my stater's acting craazzzyyy & unpredictable.

19Maximus98

Thanks HeyNow, I should have read more carefully. Anywho, I picked up some grounding cables tonight from Wally Mart for $6 and hopefully that will be all it takes to get my Max starting smoothly again. Keeping my fingers crossed!

heynow

iTrader: (1)

good luck dude, do you need a guide, btw?

19Maximus98

Man that was easy, and cheap!!! So I did more then ground the starter, I also replaced the fuel filter with a 300ZX filter, replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor and also replaced the Negative Battery cable. It cost me $14 for filter, $24 for CTS and $6 for battery cables. So here is the repair that will help with your starting issues, read below.

I used a piece of 8 gauge RockFord Fosgate speaker wire that I had from my car audio days. I attached a spade connector on each end and using a small bolt on the rear of the starter attached the cable and attached the other end to the fender using an existing bolts. I attached the cable to the small electrical part attached to the driveside fender behind the airfilter box. I made sure to sand the attachment point behind the airbox before attaching the cable. After that it started right up without any problems!! And it only cost me my time!

On a side note. The bolt that the negative battery terminal is grounded to is located on the front of the engine block below the valve cover. I discovered a valve cover leak and the oil was actually running onto the grounding point. I am not sure if that had something to do with the starting, but I made sure I cleaned the contact points with sandpaper before attaching the new negative battery cable. If you have any questions about doing this repair let me know.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I'd ground it better than that 19Maximus but nice good to hear it worked for you too. When you get time, ground the tranny as well, there should be a cheap little 16guage wire there already, replace that as well with a larger/new ground.
And yeah the stock grounds on mine had brackets and were really nasty, I eliminated the brackets and used 1G for all.

19Maximus98

Tuner, thanks for the advice. I will probably return to the engine bay in the near future to improve the current grounding situation. now that I know what is available as far as attachment points I can do a better job next time. BTW, what did you end up using as your grounding point? I really didn't see a accesable bolt on the Tranny, did you use the tranny bolts(used to attach to engine)? I also have to go back and replace a few bolts that broke off while doing the repair. Gotta love 9 years of rust.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I grounded off the small starter bolt, to the old ground on the tranny (remove bolt and old ground wire) then another ground wire from the tranny ground point to the body(i grounded to the strut mount stud)

19Maximus98

TunerMax, Is the Tranny ground that little, I mean little, wire grounded to the frame right next to the Drivers Side motor mount? If that is the tranny ground, i actually broke that bolt off becuase that was my original grounding point. When the bolt broke I just left the wire dangle. And now it is starting to hesitate again, but nothing like it was a week ago. I will dig back in there next weekend, busy this weekend.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I forgot to mention I'm a MT, not AT, But from the sounds of it yeah, thats the bolt(if you're MT).
Did you break it off trying to ground the tranny just recently or previously?
I'm really shocked you broke it though, its like 3/8", are you sure its the same bolt? I wish I had a working cam so I could make a DIY write up.
What size was the head (socket/wrench) size of the bolt you broke?

19Maximus98

I have an AT, we maybe talking about two different bolts. The bolt I am talking about is small, smaller then 3/8. I was attempting to loosen the bolt when it sheered right off. I ended up not doing what I originally thought I would be this weekend so I will go back and ground the tranny and double up on the starter ground. I will take some pics and hopefully post on here for everyone else to see and use.

19Maximus98

I hope those with the same problem find this helpful. It is very inexpensive and will only consume 2-3 hrs of your weekend.

Tools required for this repair:

10MM socket
12MM socket
Phillips Screwdriver
3/8 rachet
5" 3/8 extenstion
pliers
wire strippers
8 gauge cable, I used Rockford Fosgate power cable
(3) spade connectors
(1) ring connector
WD-40
SandpaperI

Start by loosening the hose clamp that connects the air intake to the throttle body. Next use a pair of pliers to remove hose clamps from the two hoses connected to the intake, (forget what they are called) Next disconnect MAF connector and remove bolt (Phillips driver) holding bracket on the MAF. Next loosen clamps holding airbox to filter box. Slide intake tubing off of throttle body and remove top half of intake from engine bay. When you are done you should see this.



Now that that is out of the way you can barely see the starter. You need to remove the lower half of the air filter box. This is where the 10MM socket and 4" extension comes into play. Remove the 3 10MM bolts from the lower air box and remove. You will also need to remove the intake tubing visible in picture. Use your phillips screwdriver to remove the Boost Control Unit from the front end of the Intake tubing, this is located directly infront of the valve cover and above the fan, it also says "Boost Control Unit" on it! Once all that is remove your engine bay should look like this,



You can now see the starter. You will also notice the repair I made last weekend, cable coming off the back of the starter that is grounded to the electronic unit on the strut tower. Another pic of the ground,



This was a simple repair that corrected the starting problem.....for a few days! When I was making the above repair I broke the bolt that grounded the Transmission. So for the last week I didnt not have the Tranny grounded and it started to effect the starting. See below pic for where the tranny is grounded on a AT.



This is located on the drives side frame rail directly across from the starter. You can actually see the tranny ground in this picture, it is that small black wire going behind the frame rail. So, I thought I could jsut strip the end of the existing tranny ground and crimp on another length of cable and ground somewhere else on the engine/frame. Come to find out, the entire length of Tranny ground wire was shot, water must have gotten into the insulation and fouled the wire. Most of the wire was black and not your typical copper color. See pic,



See next post.

19Maximus98

To replace the tranny ground, you do not need to remove the wheel! You dont even need to jack the car off the ground. You need to remove 1 bolt (Phillips screwdriver) and 1plastic snap bolt (Phillips screwdriver) from the inner wheel well on the drivers side. This is what is looks like once you have the bolts removed and the plastic cover pulled back, I have already removed the ground cable at the time this picture was taken but you can see where it should be-attached to the bolt that is missing!



You will need the 12MM socket and your 3/8 rachet to remove the bolt holding the tranny ground. I backed the bolt out a few turns and then sprayed the WD-40 on the bolt and then tightened the bolt back into the tranny, this way I could work the WD-40 into the threads. Remove the bolt and the ground cable will be accessable. Below is a shot of the old ground and the New and Improved ground.



I used the sandpaper to sand down the inside of the bolt head and also the tranmission contact point. Once I was done sanding down the connect points I fed the ground cable from inside the engine bay to the tranny and connected the ring connector end of the ground cable to the tranny using the existing bolt and then connected the other end to the same spot, different bolt, that I did for the Starter ground. I would show a pic, but my batteries died in the camera.
This should do it for this repair. I assumed that everyone knows how to attach a spade connector to a length of cable so I did not bother discussing that. If you have any questions feel free to let me know.

19Maximus98

I hope you find the above helpful. It literally took me 2 hours to do the entire repair. Thanks for everyone on the Forum for helping me, now it is my turn to help someone else.