the bolt froze up with the guide. I just put a prybar on the nut and tapped it up with a hammer and it came free.

 

The wavy washer on the top of the 14mm tensioner area....??? does it just sit there.?

Im a rookie DIY but finally replacing some old parts.

 

Simply slide the 11911G wavy washer down the 11935U tensioner nut. It will end up between the 11935U nut and the 11935M bracket.






.

 

Thanks,

I thought that made sense.

It didn't solve my bloody squeal so Im' hoping its the alternator

Thanks for the quick response..

 

When I first wrote this post years ago, it ended up being part 11927 that was squealing. I bought 11927 (most members would rather buy the whole 11925M bracket) and just left it in my back seat waiting for a day to install it. Well, 11927 blew up on me while I was on the road, not fun. 11927 was a cheap part at Kragen (now O'reilly?) for I think $5, doesn't hurt to try there first if you suspect it's the tensioner.

Dr J

 

Ok I had the tensioner nut on wrong...F
Thanks for the help and the Picture.

It didn't help that I had both belts and the water pump replaced six months ago. Come to find out they broke off my old tensioner...
No more of that shop.

Now the %^&$ing squeal is gone.

time to tackle the suspension

 

Where is this located on the car, front passenger wheel well behind the plastic?

 

Yes. But why not just open the hood and get at it from there?

 

Just pop your hood, you'll see it just to the right of the horn, and a few inches from the coolant hose. You can also access it from underneath.

 

Is it me or is that Courtesy diagram have the washer on the wrong side of the bracket? I put mine back together according to the diagram and still have a washer left over (about the size of a quarter). Wonder if that's why it was rattling...

 

i think u r correct. fighting with mine now.

on edit: Yes, the diagram is wrong. the first spacer (the smaller one) goes between the bracket and the adjuster arm, then the larger spacer.

 

Don't supppose in the everybody's anybody came across a torque value for the bracket to the timing cover?

 

18-23 ft lbs per the FSM, but 'tight' is all that's needed; the torque on those bolts isn't of critical importance, just use your own judgement. Tight enough that they don't fall out, but not so tight that you pull the threads out of the timing cover.

 

Yea I went with the "good'ntight".
Where'd you find that pmohr?

 

Had to jump up to the '02 FSM (EM-21), none of the VQ30 FSMs seem to list it.

 

OT, but we'll roll with it. Does tightening pattern matter?
Dr J

 

Nope.

 

So would it be worth replacing the whole assembly from the dealer if mine started to wobble or could i be OK with just the pulley itself from Autozone and save a few bucks?...thx!

 

Assuming the center nut is tight, replacing the pulley itself should be all that's needed, likely just a bad bearing (and the bearing itself is replaceable, should you be able to find one). That being said, I'd pull the whole assembly apart first to make sure nothing is overly worn or broken.

If you do pull it apart, or for when you replace the pulley, just be sure to note the position and orientation of the washers/spacers.

The factory bearing is an NSK 6301DULX, cross references with SKF 6301-2RS1. $2.49 the first place I came across - http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/6301-2RS-Bearing

 

No need to go to dealer. New Dayco pulley is only $22 and has a sealed bearing (no need to put the dust shield back on) Amazon

They have decent prices on belts too if you need to go over $25 to get free shipping (would be a good time to replace alternator belt).

 

sorry to bump an old thread again... My pully and washers exploded on me today. I was able to obtain one of the " Dust" covers, the smaller ones. I've read somewhere above that you don't need the dust covers. Is this true?

 

I don't have any on mine.

 

the only important parts are the washers and the spacer washer in the rear. The slightly curved dust cover only keeps the bearing free of grit and dirt longer. like the above poster said, its not needed to function. Good idea maybe, to pick up one from a junk yard as one of those "oh by the way I needed that" pieces. You should be fine with what you recovered though.

By the way I always find it easier to raise that side and shimmy under the tire and work from beneath. More room to work the wrench

 

I might add, however, that if the pulley blew off, it is most likely due to the bearing going out, since the direction of rotation is counter-clockwise, it actually causes torque to unscrew the bolt when the bearings start to seize up. This shouldn't happen with a good bearing unless the bolt was not tightened. Unless you replaced it recently, I would recommend checking the pulley to make sure it spins freely and smoothly and replacing it if necessary. Otherwise it's likely to blow off again. I'd check with the dealer for a new pulley; the part is superior quality and I believe it came with all the dust covers and other things, and I don't remember it being that much more expensive than the NAPA part. Although I had to do my other Maxima recently and I remember the non-dealer part actually being metal this time instead of plastic, so that may have changed.

 

^^^ good points. When I had a squeal issue I knew it was the belts not having any tension on them. I snapped the adjustor rod in half because it has seized.

In the process of research, O'Reilly's had an OEM pulley that was cast metal with a nice smooth quiet bearing. I did check the bearing on mine to make sure the pulley was good. (I used to be an avid skateboarder so I know all about the results of bad or broken bearings, lol) All I needed to get was a new adjustor rod, junkyard for the win. There were some good pulleys in there too.

 

OK guys, I went to the junkyard and pulled apart the pully. The guy was so nice not to charge me for the parts I needed. I was able to put the everything back together without raising the car at all. Just slid underneath the passenger side of the car and half hour later bam. It only took that long because the pulley wouldn't stop spinning. If anyone is close to Millerstown Pa. I would suggest going there, I will be going back to get the dreadful bose speaker and amp. Had about 10-12 Nissan Maximas there.

 

yeah about half hour is right if you replaced it all. And it kinda sounds like it was your first time messing with that piece. Easy fix right? but so essential to getting your bidness in working order. Glad to hear you got it all running again. Good Job!

 

Yes, it was my first time tinkering with it.

 

Put on New main serp belt, screams, can't get it to adjust. What can be the issue?

 

This was my problem too, New belts intensified the squeal. The Adjustor bolt on top of the idler pulley assembly is known to seize on the rod that drops down and holds the height of the pulley.

You have some options. If you are daring and have a second vehicle to take you to a junkyard or shop, you can try a breaker bar and a deep socket 14mm on the adjustor to try and knock it loose. BE WARNED I TORQUED MY ADJUSTOR ROD IN HALF THIS WAY, thus the junkyard trip.

Easiest fix is just run with the squeal to the junkyard in the first place and get the whole assembly for less than 10 bucks and replace it safely and comfortably at your home. This way you can be sure that your bolt moves and trully tightens and loosens.

!!!ALSO CHECK YOUR PULLEY BEARINGS WHILE YOU GOT EVERYTHING OFF IN ORDER TO RULE OUT THAT AS A SOURCE OF THE SOUND!!!

 

You have to loosen the nut in the center of the pulley before you try to adjust tension.

 

The most important part!

Thanks Dennis!

can't believe I forgot to mention that

 

Anyone have any suggestions on getting the pulley off..i have it apart but the pulley wont slide off.

 

Nice job! I remember doing this over the summer and didn't have a hard time...but the ps belt was more difficult. The belts had about 170k on them cuz the dealer tricked me into replacing at 40k. the hoses were original at 14 yo....the lower clamp on the lower hose had rusted away and wasn't clamping anymore, so I changed those before they failed!

 

Trying to replace my ac/altenator belt and i need to know which way to turn the tensioner pully nut. Iv almost stripped it trying to get it off and just need to know

 

Both the idler pulley nut and the tensioner rod nut are turned counter-clockwise for loosening. Loosen the idler pulley nut first.

 

OK so I had already loosened the pully adjuster nut before I loosened the nut on the pully itself . for some reason the nut would not loosen and is now rounded and stripped pretty badly any suggestion on what I should do?

 

You stripped the tensioner rod nut because the idle pulley nut wasn't loosened first. Try vice grips on the tensioner rod nut. If it still won't loosen then replace it. The PNs are listed in this thread that you'll have to read yourself.

 

No I stripped the nut on the front of the pully itself . the tensioner rod nut is actually in good condition considering the miles on the car. Should I have the tensioner nut tight or loose to try and go at the pully nut or does it not matter

 

Ok, but the the reason you stripped it is because as jholley says below.
I would reverse what you've done, meaning, tighten the belt using the brass tensioner nut up top to try to get it back to where it was before you started this whole procedure. Then go for the pulley nut down below. Maybe blast it first with some MAP gas if possible. Be sure you use a 6 pt wrench vs a 12 pt. If you get it loose, you're home free. Loosen the belt again from up top.