I have a 95 max and keep getting Code 13. However, the CTS circuit is working perfect. Here is what I have done:

- Checked the sensor when the engine was cold and hot. The resistance measurements were right what they were supposed to be according to the FSM. Perfect.
- Checked the sensor ground at the connecter. Perfect.
- Checked the sensor ground at the ECU connecter. Perfect
- Checked for 5V coming from the ECU. 4.87V - The manual indicates this needs to be approximently 5V. Perfect
- Checked the continuity from the 5V line from the sensor to the ECU. Perfect.
- I used contact cleaner spray around various connecters and everything is shiny and new.

I'm also getting 707 (downstream oxygen sensor) but have just replaced it and cleared all the codes. Help!

 

It seems like it would have been easier just to replace the coolant temperature sensor than go through the troubleshooting procedure you did.

I had the same code 9 years ago on my 95 Max, and for about $30 (including a 19 mm deep wall socket), replaced the sensor to solve the problem.

 

Despite your perfect readings, I would simply replace it. It isn't that expensive, and it's incredibly easy to replace. It's right in front of you in the engine bay and only requires the appropriate deep well socket or open-ended wrench. I've done it once before myself like nafddur, and he's right. This goes bad at some point on all A32's, it seems.

 

ok well i look into replacing it then.

 

plus one

 

I just did this repair today and it only take a few minutes. Be sure to keep a rag handy becuase there was some leakage when I removed mine, anti freeze leakage that is. I wasn't sure if you should use teflon tape but I did.

 

Ok well I bought the sensor, I'm going to put in on saturday and see how it goes.

 

This really is only a few minute job - most of your Saturday will remain available for other stuff. I guarantee that changing the sensor will take way less time than all the troubleshooting you went through to start this thread.

And, oh yeah, I saw zero leakage when I did mine. But the actual removal of the old sensor and screwing in of the new sensor takes only a few seconds, so maybe I just didn't notice a few drops of fluid leaking out.

Anyway, I hope this solves your problem.

 

I would check for opened or stuck theromstates.

 

oK i got the new sensor installed, going to drive around for the next few days if see if the error comes back

 

I didnt have a deep socket, so i had to clear a few things out of the way first including the gauge sending unit. It took about 15 minutes to take everything apart and put it back in (i like having room to work) and there wasn't any overflow when I pulled the sensor out, so that was a nice bonus. So far no MIL but it took a couple days for it to come back on last time I cleared it.

 

It has been a few days now, and the MIL light hasn't come back on since i replaced the sensor(knock on wood), so im going to declare this fixed. Thanks all for the help.

 

what does it hurt if you don't replace it b/c ive had that code for about 2months and i always forget to replace it lol

 

It's so easy and cheap to fix, why bother looking at that dopey light on all the time?

 

If it goes really out of whack then it can be hard to start in the cold and use more fuel.

EDIT: Personally though, i just find the light bugs the hell out of me.

 

oh ok, well i need to replace it but i am living by the week(money wise) and now i just bought a 7000. ring for my fiance so payments on that are added on to my other 35 monthly payments lol, can't afford it unless it hurts me bad lol

 

wow man, all the money i ever spent on girls ever doesnt add up to half that. Mabey thats why im single though. If you just bought her a $6970 ring instead then she wouldnt have noticed and you would have had your sensor.

 

i know huh