Ahheck01

I would like to start by commending everyone on the quality of this forum/community. I'm coming from one of, in my opinion, the better and more informative online enthusiast communities - Bimmerforums.com. In contrast, I was pleasantly surprised to see how consistently helpful and informative people here are. Becoming a maxima owner is a lot more attractive to me as a result.

Now, a little bit about what I'm looking for and why: I've owned 6 BMW's, three 3-series, and 3 5-series. I currently am working on selling a '97 528i 5-speed, and looking to replace it with a more reliable sedan that's both automatic, and front-wheel drive. The first choice was a 6th gen Accord, but after further research, I've decided they're rather overpriced, probably because of the name. The Maxima seems to be more bang for the buck.

This will be my DD, and I will be driving it constantly. Probably never less than 3,000 miles a month, some months in excess of 6,000, and half of those will be will three adult passengers. As a result, I'm looking to keep the ride very civil. I want it to be easy to fall asleep in the passenger seat.

However, coming from a BMW, I do care about handling somewhat. Perhaps a combination of near-stock springrates and decent sways and strut bars to offer a bit more stability?

Also, smoothness and sophistication are factors. I hear certain engine mounts will help quite a bit.

Other than that, I just plan to baby it. It will get the best of fluids across the board. Much of my research for those will be on bobistheoilguy forums.

Long story short, I put together a list of pretty much everything that possibly will need replacing or adding to the car, and I was wondering if you all could help me populate each thing with what you consider the best for these cars, and for my specific application. As I learn and research myself, I will fill it in and update this post. If you have an addition you'd suggest, or a change, just post in the thread, and definitely explain why.

I suppose I should mention that I'm looking for a '97-'99 GLE or SE (haven't decided which - probably the GLE for sake of classiness, although the fact that the SE already has a better steering rack sways me that way a bit - feel free to comment on this too.)

So, here is the master list. I appreciate any and all contributions, and I look forward to becoming a qualified member and new Maxima owner!

Cheers!

Edit: To make the list more universally helpful, everything in blue is based on my needs/preference, everything in green is what I believe is the best option universally, and red is the remaining questions.

Steering and Suspension:
Shocks: Tokico Illumina - $475 from Import Car Parts Plus
Springs: Manual SE Springs
Front Strut Bar: Otto Racing - $46 from Pro Car Parts
Lower Tie Bar: BlehmCo Stage II LTB - $175 from BlehmCo
Rear Strut Bar: None
Rear Sway Bar: Progress Tech - $162 from Auto Sport Style
Subframe Connectors: Full Subframe Connectors with X-Brace
Bushings: OEM LCA, Energy Suspension sway bushings/end links
Shock Mounts: OEM
Ball Joints/Control Arms: OEM
Tie Rods: OEM
Power Steering Fluid: Amsoil Synthetic ATF - $7 per quart from Talkinghorse
CV Boot/Axels: OEM
Steering Rack: 97'-99' SE Rack

Engine Specific:
Engine Oil: Amsoil SAE 5w-30 - $66 for case of 12qts. from Talkinghorse
Oil Additive: Auto-RX - $40 for two bottles through Auto-RX
Intake: OEM
Intake Filter: OEM
Intake Manifold: Stock OEM
Throttle Body: OEM (cleaned)
Engine Mounts: OEM
Radiator: OEM - $150 from Import Replacement Parts
Aux/Electric Fan: OEM
Coolant: OEM Nissan
Coolant Hoses: OEM
Water Pump: OEM
Thermostat: OEM
Spark Plugs: NGK PFR5G-11
Starter/Distributor: OEM
Coils: OEM
Oil Filter: Amsoil AEO (EAO13-EA) - $12.65 from Talkinghorse
Fuel Filter: OEM
Fuel Pump: OEM
Injectors: OEM
Gas Additive: Amsoil PI
Drive Belts: OEM

Drivetrain and Exhaust:
Y-Pipe: Cattman Performance YG4
Exhaust: Cattman
Exhaust Mounts/Hangers: OEM
Differential: OEM
Transmission Oil: Amsoil Synthetic ATF - $7 per quart from Talkinghorse
Tranny Mounts: OEM
Diff Oil: Amsoil Synthetic ATF - $7 per quart from Talkinghorse

Braking/Wheels:
Rotors: Brembo Blanks - $168from Tech One HID
Calipers: OEM Rebuilt
Pads: Hawk HPS - $128from Tech One HID
Lines: SS Lines - $85 from Tech One HID
Wheels:
Tires: 225's
Brake Fluid: ATE 200

Interior:
Head Unit:
Navigation: Garmin Nuvi 360 - $325 from Hot Buys Electronics
Radar Detector: Valentine 1 - $400 from Valentine One
Remote Entry: OEM
iPod Integration: (via headunit)
Sound Deadening: SecondSkin Audio - $500 from SecondSkin Audio
Microfilter: OEM
Door/Window Seals: OEM
Battery: Optima Red Top - $162 from Low Cost Batteries

Exterior:
Headlights: OEM with Acura TL Bixenon Projectors and 4300k HID's
Taillights: OEM with Amber Removed
Tint: 35%
Spoiler: OEM
SS License Plate Screws: Local Hardware Store Edition
Wiper Blades: Bosch Icons - $40 from Advance Auto Parts
Washer Fluid: RainX

BLACKonBLACK98

iTrader: (42)

http://maxmods.dyndns.org/

done.

andrei3333

Well let me be the first one to welcome you to the forums. I can see this thread becoming a long and extensive one.

My max is not modded so i am not going to comment on the various mods since i have not experienced them, but let me tell you, you will not replace a BMW with a Maxima. Why dont you keep one of the beamers you are familiar with ?

BTW if you plan on throwing money at a maxima by getting all these items then just settle for a nice BMW that doesnt need to be modified !!!

z00york145

man, sounds like you want to do quite a bit of stuff. check out the link blackonblack posted, it might help you. If you don't find everything there look around the forums-- I'm sure that you'll find most of the stuff you need, and if you can't find it--ask. Don't forget to look through all the pages of the topics--guys here seem to love to say that!

Ahheck01

I know that performance/comfort will never quite be BMW-level, but I have a feeling that maintenance will be far less expensive, and auto/fwd is much safer for other random people to drive when we're driving at 3am for 4 hours in the dark. Am I wrong?

-Evan

andrei3333

NO you are right on that point,

OK here it goes ( i wanna comment): Most important and most effective is lowering, get some descent springs and struts and shocks. Rear sway bar is effective, Front strut tower brace is effective, some thicker wheels with good rubber and you are set...

get a nice sound system, and everyone will fall asleep in your transport vehicle at 3am.

Ahheck01

I should add, a minor drop is preferred, but nothing so significant that it looks super-modified whenever I have business associates riding along.

-Evan

BLACKonBLACK98

iTrader: (42)

are you wanting us to choose your mods? do your research, because there is way too much for somebody to design your car for you.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

I don't want to come across as a jerk, but you've got to be kidding me.

And asking about windshield washer fluid? and ss license plate screws??

What is "best" for our cars is a matter of opinion, not fact as I'm sure you know. All you're going to wind up with is a conveluted (sp?) list of everything that's available to you. And who's to say that it will be complete when it's all said and done? It won't be. And most if not all of the stuff you have listed will not need replacing. Just get one with low mileage and a clean history. IMO, what would be better is if you donated $20, searched for your own answers, and came to your own conclusions. (as you stated you plan on doing) If you don't feel like donating $20 at this point in time, please use the free google search. Read the stickies, lurk around, there is a ton of info on this board!

Welcome

Ahheck01

Not choose, recommend.

There are some things that may simply be better. For example, for BMW 3-series, there's a Stewarts water pump that is far superior to OEM, and that's the only option. That's the sort of thing that I'm talking about. What "duh" or obvious best-choices are there? Those are the blanks I'm asking people to fill in.

-Evan

BLACKonBLACK98

iTrader: (42)

pretty much the only obvious bests are going to be oem things you do not need to replace unless they are bad (at which point oem is best). any upgrading is a matter of taste/function.

Ahheck01

Alright, then perhaps I"ll just ask questions that my research leaves unanswered, starting with:

Are the BlehmCo Stage II Lower Tie Bars a replacement for a swaybars, or another thing to get in addition to sway bars?

-Evan

bpk01

Shocks: Konis Inserts
Springs: H&R
Front Strut Bar: Any brand that fits the car unless you want a brand name and have $
Rear Strut Bar: See front strut bar
Rear Sway Bar:Progress

Koni's inserts are really good they just require some modification. The H&R springs give you a comfortable ride and a minimal drop 1.4" front and 1.3" rear (i think). Honestly unless you are trying to make your engine bay look good just buy a front strut brace off of ebay they all do the same thing. Rear strut bar isn't as effective as the effort in my opinion plus it will take away from your trunk space and it sounds like if you're driving at 3am with 3 adult passengers ya'll would have some baggage. I like the progress rear sway bar but I think that is another part that really is just whatever brand you want.

MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

The LTB2 is a brace that bolts the two front jackstand points and the front LCA bushing points together, completely separate from a sway bar. It is a chassis mod, just makes the front of the car more solid (coming from BMWs this should be important to you)

Anyway I'll bite, here is what I've done so far:

Front strut bar
LTB2
Subframe connectors but no cross bracing
Koni Yellows/Eibach springs
Progress rear sway bar
16x8.5 wheels (2" wider than stock) with 245/50ZR16 rubber (30mm wider than stock)

Does it handle like a bimmer? No. It is certainly a treat to drive though, and handles worlds better than stock.

Also, see my sig.

Ahheck01

How are the Koni's/Eibach's as far as lowness/smoothness/comfort?

I've added specific questions in my OP for things I haven't found answers to yet.

Thanks for all the input guys!

-Evan

NCSU_MAX

iTrader: (36)

wow, id love to help you man but i could write a novel considering every mod option youve listed. IMHO your best option is to search and research what others have said in the past and then post if things are still unclear. Its your car so you should be the one to mod it. We are all definitely here to help if you need it though, good luck!

Grant

BiZzL3

+2

wiggafly808

iTrader: (17)

Hey!
Another BMW-maxima owner!
Im on Bfc too haha


Sold my 92 325i for a maxima as well..

My maxima is quite a bit faster than the 325i was, but the 325i was auto (the main reason i wanted to sell it) and my max is 5 speed.

Some of your questions i may be able to answer..

Waterpumps i dont think you have to worry about. After owning a BMW (Build Metal Waterpumps) i think that your probably more concerned about it breaking than you should be. Nissan's reliability is pretty good.

Suspension - i didnt really notice much of a difference after taking off my sway bar and strut bars. My drop was mostly for looks, i dont autox or anything like that.

Exhaust - i have a greddy sp2 exhaust and headers, and its not that loud. Pretty good tone, and its not ricey.


The main thing i missed going from BMW to Nissan was the leather (which you can replace fairly easily) and the RWD. But overall, the gas mileage and reliability are way better for a DD.

But youre looking for reliable, auto, and FWD, so i think youve found what youre looking for.

MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

1. Most people go with Polyurethane bushings. Swaybar endlink, swaybar main, LCA bushings. The latter will transmit more road noise though so be careful.

2. Not really, 99% of people go with stock mounts (as well as some coilovers). Stillen made camber plates at some point but they are impossible to find now and unless you go JICs or ksports/D2s you will be on stock strut mounts.

3. No one makes an aftermarket LCA for 4th gens. Also, stick with OEM balljoints or you will be sorry.

4. Stock if you want the most isolation from NVH of the engine. But solid or polyurethane ones will counter wheel hop pretty well, so it's really about compromise.

5. Go OEM, VQs don't have overheating problems.

6. Tranny coolers yes (for autos with VB mod), but I haven't heard of people adding any extra fans.

7. I see you come from BMW land. The water pump is fine, worry about other things but it is good that you are looking at preventative maintenance.

8. You can go VLSD, that is pretty much the only option besides open diffs for autos. 5 speeds can also put a Quaife in that sucker but that is $$$$ plus hard to find.

9. IIRC there are like 3-4 total engine/tranny mounts tops, I have not heard of people upgrading tranny mounts but I think (could be wrong here) in the Maxima community engine mounts is more of a blanket term encompassing engine and tranny mounts.

10. The kinds that end in a fitting for Z32 calipers.

Qbridg3

You're going to miss 50/50 weight distribution when it nose dives and there is no mod for that

Ahheck01

What an awesome post! Thanks so much for your time! Between that post and a considerable amount of research both here and on bobistheoilguy.com forums, I've filled in most of the rest of the list. Just need to zero in on a few suspension items, etc.

Still open to critiques and suggestions on everything! Thanks guys!

-Evan

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

For brake fluid, just go with Valvoline's Syn Power stuff. This will be more than enough for your intentions, it's cheaper, and can be bought at your local Autozone etc. No need for the more expensive special order ATE brake fluid.

Ahheck01

I like overkill, but I suppose if I'm not going for a BBK, ATE is probably overkill. How do the two compare in terms of long-lasting and moisture absorption - I guess longevity of good performance is my biggest thing there - once I replace it, I want it to do it's job well for the longest amount of time.

-Evan

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

ATE TYPE 200 has a Dry boiling point of 536°F, and a wet boiling point of 392°F $11.99/33.8oz


VALVOLINE SYNPOWER has a Dry boiling point of 503°F, and a wet boiling point of 343°F $4.97/16.9oz.

As you can see, the Valvoline is very comparable, and exceeds Dot 3 and Dot 4 standards. The DOT 3 requirement for dry boiling point is 401°F, and the wet boiling point is a minimum temperature of 284°F. By FMVSS116 standards, DOT 4 fluids must have a minimum dry boiling point of 446°F and a minimum wet boiling point of 311°F.

Both are rated to last about 3 years, but it is best to bleed the brake fluid annually as water absorption is inevitable.

adamsanders

iTrader: (12)

As for fuel filter, I know there is one that people on the org prefer. It is an OEM filter from another nissan car of a similar year, maybe the 240 or 300, you would have to have someone else chime in with the specific car. I know people say that it is double the size of the maxima filter and fits well. Hope I could help.

Ahheck01

I read about that, though there seemed to be questionable fitment issues. Can anyone verify?

Also, five more questions to complete the list:

1) Bushings: What upgraded bushings would be the best quality for both ride comfort and handling, with an emphasis on the former?

2) Intake: Which intake of any variety offers the greatest power gain with the least additional noise?

3) Coils: Replace with OEM or is there a more reliable substitute?

4) Exhaust: (Cattman?) Is there an aftermarket exhaust that is lighter/better flow but not any louder? Going for smooth but quiet. Also don't want big fat pipe that looks like a fart cannon.

5) Lines: What stainless steel lines do people typically prefer?

MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

1. Energy suspension makes poly bushings for the sway bar but you should stick with stock LCA bushings as you'll want the extra isolation.

2. Aftermarket intakes don't really make a 4th gen faster, what they do is shift the power curve to the right a bit, so you lose low end for a little high end and sound. The stock intake does a great job and produces a pleasant but subtle sound, keep it and continue replacing your air filter with OEM Nissan filters (not K&N). Especially being auto you will appreciate that low-end.

3. OEM, and steer clear of 99s if you don't like coil problems. In general no aftermarket components are more reliable than OEM.

4. The Dynomax Super Turbo muffler is supposed to be pretty much the quietest of the aftermarket exhausts but honestly you will not see any gains from just a muffler. If you want performance from your exhaust start with a y-pipe (you are deleting precats with this piece though, so make sure you know what you're getting into) then from there go for a B pipe/catback and maybe a Cattman cat. Personally I think the Cattman muffler is by far the most attractive muffler out there, it is louder than stock but not obnoxious and is an appropriate size and a simple, elegant design, tip is straight back (not necked a la Greddy), rounded edge and perforated interior. Unfortunately just the muffler is $300 plus shipping, so you certainly pay through the nose for beauty.

5. I'm not sure of any brands that sell SS brake lines, most people just put SS lines in when they do a brake conversion (e.g. 300zx/cobra brakes require conversion lines that are only made in SS). Don't forget to throw on some Hawk HPS pads as SS lines will do nothing when the gaping bottleneck of your braking system is the horrible OEM pads.

Nightkid08

iTrader: (20)

1.) Energy Suspension bushings - Check the Group Deal forum

2.) You will gain substantial noise(at high RPMS) and minor low end torque loss from the majority of aftermarket intakes. Stick with OEM and drop in a K&N panel filter ($40-50).

3.) Ignition coils??? OEM is your only option, 99+ Maximas usually have coil issues. If it ain't broke don't fix it. They should last the lifetime of the car.

4.) Go for a full Cattman setup($1-1.1k) minus the muffler, then custom fab a 5th gen/G35/6th gen muffler($200-300) to finish it off.

5.) Questionable gains, but Goodridge from Stillen or technafits from the GD section. ($90-100)

Good Luck

MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

This is another option but I think it should be noted that dual exit exhausts do not fare well on 4th gens. I'd stick with a muffler designed for an A32.

Also I forgot to add that Cattman headers include a y pipe and will yield a few extra horses over just a y pipe, but to the tune of an extra $500-600 plus plenty of extra labor, not to mention a significant sound increase.

Nightkid08

iTrader: (20)

P.S.

I went back and read your first post...

From my experience, the 4th gen is not exactly ideal/comfortable for passengers, especially for long trips (100-200 miles daily). The mods that you have listed will run you close to $10k with labor costs, unless you are doing most of them yourself. That plus the price of a GOOD condition 4th gen is about $15k. Why not invest in a roomier 5th or 6th gen?

If I was in your position, the 6th gen would fit in perfectly. It is roomy, comfortable, classier (in a luxurious perspective). Best of all, the car would be younger and would eliminate some of your mods such as the navigation and the projector headlights. Used 6th gens are fairly priced around $17-21k. If you get a 4th gen, what is the point of using all the synthetic oil and fluids (unless it is a new engine or transmission) the damage (if any) has already been done in the 8-12 years the 4th gen has been in existence. Your efforts would be better spent on a newer car.

MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

I disagree with this completely but I have not driven a 5th or 6th gen.

An automotive enthusiast is probably going to be significantly harder on the car than its previous owners, synthetic fluids are extra protection against the owner, so to speak. In addition, there are more benefits to synthetic fluids than increased protection.

Nightkid08

iTrader: (20)

I am just speaking from a comfort/professional business point of view. If you had a choice between a fully loaded 4th gen or a fully loaded 6th gen to pick up and transport some business associates, which would you choose? I think the answer is clear. I own both 4th and 6th gens and love both, but for his needs I believe a 6th gen is more fitting.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

First off, welcome to the forums, I too am a bimmerforums member, I have a 330i that sits next to my 4th gen Maxima in my driveway. The bimmer and the Maxima are two completely different cars and I use them in that respect as well. For spirited driving, I hop in the bimmer. When we take a trip, we use the Maxima. It's got more room and rides nice and smooth as well.


This line in your post really says everything.

Honestly, keep the Maxima as close to stock as possible. If you want to lower it a bit and put some wheels and tires on it fine. But please be aware that it will not be a smooth ride over bumps expecialy with 3 or 4 adults in it. Not gonna happen no matter what suspension you go with.
Tokico Illuminas or Koni inserts will give you the best combination of ride and handling. H&R springs will be the most comfy "sport spring".
If you can find a 5 speed SE you might enjoy driving it a bit more. If you go with an automatic SE you can put a set of front springs from a 5 speed in it. The 5 speed front springs will sit very slightly lower in an automatic, and having one less coil winding, they are slightly (and I do mean slightly) more sporty then the automatic front springs. Couple that setup with a set of Tokico Illumina adjustable struts and rear shocks and you have a fantastic riding 4th gen that can go from a cruiser to a nice firm sports car in less then 2 minutes.

Your list of mods is extensive, most aren't worth their cost in what you really get out of them. Remember, a 4th gen isn't a BMW and never will be. It will not respond to bolt on mods like the bimmer does.

Examble, a rear sway bar tightens up the rear, it also adds about 40 lbs of unsprung weight to the rear beam (bad), it also makes the ride suffer because by design it binds the rear beam up to work (bad), it also takes the feedback out of the car's handling, the rear will let loose and come around instantly if your into it to hard (bad). Does it work, sure it gives you flatter cornering, but the negative effects outweigh the positive.

The 4th gen is a great reliable car. It rides good, handles good and will give you years of trouble free performance if you treat it well. Remember your looking for a DD to carry 3 adults around comfy style. If you want a sports car, tell the others to take mass transit and trick out an M3.

Oh, and as far as washer fluid goes, just like the bimmer, always use genuine synthetic Nissan washer fluid in your car.

Good luck with your purchase!

VTonmymind

iTrader: (1)

Are the front 5 speed springs trim or year specific? I've got an A/T 99 SE-L and would like to change out the front springs but don't know what year and trim to get them from. Essentially, do I need to hunt down 99 SE springs or can any 5 speed 4th gen (be it SE, GXE or GLE) springs be suitable?


Oh, and Ahheck, welcome to the Org. Excellent to have you around!

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

Im going to tell you my bit of help, given my experience with building my car from head to toe (only things still original on it are headliner, carpet and tranny, LOL) and the fact that I was just a signature away of buying an M3 just 4 months ago, I know what it takes to bring the Maximas CLOSE to that level (can never match an M3, but I think in some ways my car is CLOSE to it lol).

Welcome to Maxima.org. Bimmerforums is a great place and I still jump in there from time to time to stay on top of the M3 ball for when the time comes around for me again, haha.

Konis is too much labor, not worth it IMO for a DD. Illuminas are great for comfort and control, great combination.

Stock SE springs are a no-no. H&R will give you that slight drop and stiffen up the ride just a tad stiffer stock 3-series (non-M3) levels (except for more suspension travel and sway)

Otto Strut bar is fine. Maxima will not see the level of turns that a BMW can pull, so you dont need the ubber hinge ends or anything. Paying more than $50 for a front strut bar is plain overkill for a Maxima.

+1 for the lower tie bar... Stiffening the chassis FTW! Problem is that I think Matt is not making them anymore, as he is sellin the business. So I think your only hope on that is to find it used. +1111 on the subframe connectors!!! They made a HUGE difference on my car, and I only have stage 1s. This will bring the chassis closer to "3-series spec". Just remember, there is NO SUCH THING as a chassis being TOO STIFF. SFCs, braces, chassis foaming, reinforcement plates, its all good.

Rear strut bar is useless, I dont care what anyone says. That's what that big plate behind the rear seat is doing.

For the H&R springs, adding a sway bar is def going to eliminate alot of the body roll that will still be there. At my massive drop with stiff springs and struts (AGXs and Sprint springs) I have no sway bar, but no need either as my car doesnt roll at all haha.

For bushings, change them all, no doubt about it. Makes for a much more responsive steering and suspension. Feels much more solid, not harsh at all. Energy Suspension is the brand.

Shock mounts, tie rods and ball joints DEFINITELY OEM.

Upgrade the tranny fluid to the Amsoil or Mobil1 ATF, both work great. But the important part, ADD an external Hayden tranny cooler (only like $44 at Advance Auto).

Dont bother changing the boots. Just change the axle, just makes life easier.

Intake with most power and less noise? That doesnt go together meng sorry, lol. But Honestly, keep the OEM midpipe/resonator and put a cone at the end of the MAF. Our intakes are surprisingly not that restrictive as they look to the eye.

I suggest you do not do the MEVI unless you extend the redline to take advantage of that high-end power. Being auto, those long gears are going to kill the fun. 00VI (the VI from the 00-01 Maximas) is another VI that will not have a power loss at the bottom-end, so it would be more friendly with that auto's long gears, however it is much more labor intensive (similar comparison would be doing an M50 IM swap on an OBD2 3-series). You dont have to do anything to the TB, just clean it

Engine mounts I'd get urethane inserts from Energy Suspension. They're only STIFF for the first day. After that they "get friendlier". Stiffer than stock for sure, but by no means annoying or noisy. Def helps with response. Engine doesnt move at all.

Radiator, OEM is too much $ for nothing. Go on Ebay, Oscar's Radiator sell an ALL ALUMINUM radiator for ~$145 shipped for us. Its even thicker than the OEM so your not only upgrading in material and build, but also in thickness, for less $.

For all the maintenance stuff, OEM is best. Nissan did a good job at the parts.

For Exhuasts, Cattman has top quality stuff and customer service is untouchable. But really, a ypipe is a ypipe. Paying over $300 for a ypipe I just dont see it justified. WarpSpeedPerformance sells a s/s ypipe with a lined flex for no -bees in a can sound, for around $200 IIRC.

Cattman Catback sound amazing. If you can get your hands on one go for it, but it is $$$$. Greddy SP2 is also another sexy catback. Apexi WS is also another one. All are deep toned, not loud, all sound clean. Or you can go full custom like me, but thats another story. PM me for that, lOL.

You did your HW on the Brakes, thats perfect

The navi and electronic gimmicks I cant say anything about cus Im all about the "under the hood" department, lol.

Sound deadening tho, Rubberized /Undercarriege paint worked great for me. EXPECIALLY spraying it on the inside of the doors on the actual door shell. Layer ~3mm thick, wow, good bye wind noise and most of the road noise. Also sprayed it in the wheel wells, that did alot to get rid of the noise from my 235s. Sure as hell was alot cheaper than the Mats lol.

Exterior mods... I'll let other guys in here tell you about that, I dont care much for that like mentioned earlier.

I cant wait until I finally get my M3 tho. 95 is what I was going for. I drove both the 95 with the S50B30, and the 96+ with the S50B32.... really the .2L in displacement isnt noticeable. For the price difference, screw that, 95 M3>* for me, lol. Until then I'll enjoy my 95 Maxima with the 3.5 swap and soon to be on a few pounds from a snail

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

You think the bimmerforums is one of the best on the internet? Ehhh. Informative, perhaps, but my experience is that it's about 50/50 with how people act there. Some are real nice, helpful, etc. and others are the stereotypical "I think my **** doesn't stink" BMW owners.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Based solely on your 1st post, and the fact that your taste's are VERY similiar to mine---------

HU: Pathfinder 6-disc mp3 (Shameless plug)

Filters & Belts: Nissan, and actually they are cheaper than most aftermarket, but you already planned that route anyways.

Coolant: Toyota FTMFW, w/bottled water & water wetter is my weapon of choice.

Intake: Stock, it performs amazingly well, dyno-proven better than many aftermarkets, and it's quiet.

Manifold: '00VI > MEVI, but again, another shameless plug

Exhaust: Aftermarket Y-pipe, Stock Muffler & Resonator (Again, the performance of them is amazing) but w/custom piping to eliminate crush bends & The 2 nasty kinks near resonator.

Brakes: Hawk HPS are a horrible choice for pads. Nutswingers can disagree with me all they want, but the oem pads for street use are much better suited even for the spirited driver.

FishyMan

Dude if I were you, I'd buy a brand new car instead of haggling all the time and stuff trynna fix a 4th gen up. I mean your coming down from a BMW????

Get a 350 or GS or something. If not, you should consider something newer, and that's an honest opinion. The 5th gens aren't too bad.

The generality is that stay with OEM if it's worked before moving to something else.

FishyMan

BTW on brakes. I love my MM but they wore out really fast, relative to OEM. But keep in mind I live in the city and commute in a lot of traffic.

Hawks

MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

How are HPS a bad choice? I have cooked my pads on multiple occasions, if you ever travel at above 100mph you are overdriving your stock brakes.