hell you can have my cams if you want them just pay shipping otherwise i never thought to ask is this a new timing chain damper kit you bought??or is it old? i wouldnt go buying another engine because of this problem youre having IMO but if youre going to do it just get a VQ35

 

well does everyone agree that i cam could be the problem with no compression

i am just tring to fix this fast so i have my car going again. i know i had great compression before i started and now i have none.

 

as far as this take a look at these pictures in order to get the cams on the front bank to look like this "/ \" i will have to put one cam 180º from the dowel pin. is this correct. in the pictures the engine is at TDC as you can see with dowel pins on the cam. but if you look at the cam (under the valve cover) they don't look like this / \ .. also quick note the cam that i replaced is stamped 2y9 and the original one is stamped 38u is this because i replace the cam with the incorrect year model or incorrect cam

 

 

uh no, cams dont really go bad. Id say you ****ed up the timing and bent a valve. Or the timing is still off...
They just want to get rid of there ****...

 

well my first cam didn't go bad i broke it tring to hold the cam and break the crank bolt lose so that is why i have a new one that i got out of the junk yard. my main ? is are all the vq cams the same for all the 4th gen

i ask because i am unsure what year the maxima was that i got it out of the cam fit but is the timing dowel in a different location

 

Uh no notice I said "he can have them just pay shipping" If i wanted to get rid of them id throw them in the trash....

who knows but i have the code on my cams as you do, i guess a diffrent cast number on them will probably be the reason your timing isnt right...like i said though let me know if u need em'

 

All 4th gen cams are the same.
remove the caps for the cams carefully and place them down in the same sequence that they are installed on the car, so when you re-install you can put them back easily and exctly where they should go.

you'll need a 1/4" torque wrench and a 10mm (1/4) so that you can properly torque down those caps once you get the new cam installed.

As it stands your motor was running fine before you removed the engine/messed with timing right? so Im sure its the bad timing that is causing this problem. Get the timing spot on, and re-install. If after starting the car it still is acting up, you may have other serious problems.

Assuming the last time you tired to start the car, that you didnt go around driving it around, I dont think you have a bent valve from the engine running at idle with no load....


... but I can be wrong. Fix the timing first.

 

wait Im sorry. Cyl #1 cam lobes should be " / \" and cyl# 4 should be "/ \ " my brain is a bit fuzzy its been a little while. I'll double check my fsm to be positive. or if you have the fsm already downloaded look in the EM section and it will tell you.


when you purchased your cam you did buy the correct cam right? the intake and exhaust cams are different. I hope you dont have another intake cam when it should be exhaust. the marking on them are different from each other (intake to exhaust) but both intake cams should have the same marking, same as the exhaust.

 

alright so i have compression on all the cylinders, and i am now 90% sure i am in time. but the car will not start. it has spark and fuel. no Check engine light..... pull plugs and they are always wet with fuel. any ideas what this could be..... something that i am over looking..... i assume that this has to be something small since the engine light doesn't come on.... one other thing that i was reading up about..... what does the engine do if there is no oil pressure.... i was searching to find out how you prime a nissan pump but came up short.. i found one write up that said pack it full of petrolum jelly... i am sure it is as easy as it sounds but i couldn't find any more detail on how to do this. do i take the strainer off and pack it into the pump itself or do i pack it in the strainer and pump???

 

you dont need to prime the motor but if you needed too you could just turn the motor over by hand. Break bar and socket on the crank pulley bolt. turn it over at least a full 4 times(full 4 stroke cycle). but im sure thats not your problem

what was your readings on the compression test?

The motor is cranking (you hear it cranking) but no start?
Dont flood the motor when cranking, hold the throttle at full if needed at times to get some of the fuel out.

have you tested all cam/crank sensors?
dont know if your MT/AT when you put the motor back in was the flexplate/flywheel installed and aligned properly?

 

Hi,I finished rebuild on my engine,and now it wont run. It cranks,starts,and after few seconds it dies. Sounds like timing could be wrong,so could someone upload a pic of cams when cylinder no1 is in its TDC(compression stroke). Having hard time to find info how it should be as everyone just says that it cant be wrong. But of course it can if the chain has missed few teeth.

 

After reading this entire post I was still unsure of one issue...Has the OP checked the cam position sensor and its connection security? I ask because if hes got fuel spark and "so-called" proper timing, then that sensor is the next culprit that comes to my mind.

 

i'm having a hard time timing one of these motors also. number 1 cyl, the lobes are all facing each other pointing slightly upward. number 4 cyl, the lobes are facing each other pointing slightly downward. Initially I had the timing off maybe one tooth so i took the cover back off and lined up the marks on the chain but now it sounds like the engine's got no compression. I think the timing is ok and maybe the starter is going out but I'd like some input from some nissan guys