EDIT 1/17/2007
Is this what is causing the plug tube to be filled?

Will this kit do the job?

How do I remove the thing in red? The clips are kinda odd.



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The top right (looking forward) CYNLINDER 5 ? coil pack or tube is filled with oil. It's completely drenched.
Is this a valve cover issue? Simply put one of the tubes is filled with oil.
The CYLINDER? is filled with oil. What could be wrong?



Today recently, my car just began to show signs of misfire or something. The tack would drop a bit as the car shows some knock or shake. It would last for like 1 second but then return. It didn't happen constant enough though. Am I safe to drive?
I don't think it's a spark plug problem could it? It's mostly when I sit at the red light or something.

When it is in P, it seems fine.

What could it be?

I have a 1997, 90K, AUTO.

 

well, mine was doing the same thing and I found out that the coil packs were to blame. is your car a 1999 by any chance. if so you'll need to switch the mitsubishi style packs for the hanshin style.

 

could also very well be that your MAF is going bad

 

I'm not getting any cel.
I'll try change my plugs or something. Gosh damn, problem after problem. Sometimes I wonder if it's worth fixing.

 

It is a coilpack 99% of the time. It is really simple to figure out which one it is, just pull each one while the engine is running, and when you get to the one that does not change the status of the engine, you know which one it is.

P.S. They only cost about $20 ea. at junkyards.

 

i had the same problem with a diffrent car. except the car was throwing codes. egr code and a misfire in bank 3. I was trying everything. cleaned out egr reset codes. the plugs and wires where changed maybe 6 or 7 months ago. so i didnt suspect plugs or wires. But my wifes sisters boyfriend took a look at it and it was a loose spark plug. guess my point is with cars start off small

 

So the spark plug itself came loose? Its been about 30k or less since I've changed mines. I guess changing won't hurt.

How can I do the coil test w/o taking to a shop?

Thanks.

 

thanks for the information!

 

The top right (looking forward) coil pack or tube is filled with oil. It's completely drenched.
Is this a valve cover issue? Simply put one of the tubes is filled with oil.

 

Fishy--

The oil is problaby from a leaking spark plug tube grommet. You're lucky it's on the front--I had one on the rear a while ago and it's a real PITA to get at. I don't think it was causing the engine to run poorly, though. I didn't notice any difference before and after.

 

Mines DRAINED the coilpack. It was pretty bad. Seriously, the oil filled up to the connectivity of the coil, thus causing misfire. It's in the rear..

 

My cylinder is filled. You think it'll be fixed via the valve cover gasket job? As far as sealent, do you think it's necessary?

Thanks.

 

Replacing the rubber grommets that seal the individual plug tubes should fix the leak if that's where it's coming from, yes. 99% chance it's those gaskets.

Sealant couldn't really hurt (unless of course you use too much...), so it's worth a shot. Smear a little RTV around both sides of the gasket, and you shoule be good.

How do you plan on draining the oil out of the plug tube?

 

I took the plug out and I suppose the oil has dripped back in? But prior to taking the plug, there was enough oil to drench my ratchet and plug tool. I'll try clean my coil, but my coil might be messed up with the oil getting onto the electrical tip and what not.

I suppose I would do this and go from there.

*One more thing, I only have simple ratchets and tools. I hope I can get this done.

Thanks for the tips. Looks like the car might sit for a while.

 

Is this causing my sparkplug tube to be filled with oil?
*in red
For the goodness, I cannot manage to get the old one completely off. I am afraid of damaging it by scrapping too much. Any tips? Are these the culprit? When I get to the rear?


Will this take care of it?

 

Yes, those are the tube grommets. Just keep prying, they'll come off at some point.

Yes, those grommets on the left should be the tube grommets.

 

Yep.

 

I ended up having to get a dremel to cut through the outer metal rim of the old circular seal ring. Just use a dremel and a flat head and a hammer... and you should get it soon enough.

 

I have tried just taking my time and prying up in a circular motion around the outside with a flathead, it takes a while but you have less risk of scratching stuff up.

 

To answer your second question about removing the thing in red (which is a wire bundle, if I'm seeing it correctly), I just ended up cutting the little zip tie things. I don't think I bothered to put new ones on after.

 

I suppose I gotta get through these as well?The ones in red? I just wanna make sure.

There's a coolant hose in the back that goes from firewall to the front. It's blocking the back of the mani and I'm trying to get it out. Hose looks in good condition still but I wanna replace.

Damn..

Thanks for all the help. Maybe I'll compile a write up later.

 

Do you mean the vacuum lines or the coolant hoses to the bottom of the throttle body?

The coolant lines run from the coolant log to the TB, back along a pipe that passes past the EGR pipe (to heat it up), back down to another nipple on the log, IIRC.

The first time I took off my UIM, I was able to get a set of channel locks back there to undo the coolant hoses...I bypassed the throttle body and UIM so I would never have to do that again.

 

The few big main clips come undone though. Just wedge a flathead screwdriver in between where the clips meet. This way you can reuse some of the ties.

 

Hi pmohr,
When you say you bypassed the throttle body and UIM, did you just run a long straight coolant hose from the main coolant log/pipe that is coming from front of the vehicle to a coolant nipple/log/pipe that is located to the rear closer to the firewall below the UIM?
I'm in the middle of replacing valve cover gasket set and already have the UIM removed, if there is no side affect mechanical problems with bypassing the throttle body and UIM coolant hoses, I think I'd like to give that a try when I go to reassemble UIM.
Has this bypass method worked out good for you without any problems?
Thanks in advance for your input.

 

was goin on with my max too. bought new coil packs and now its riding smooth

 

Sorry for the bump...
I haven't heard any response to my previous post/question on by-passing TB, EGR (back of UIM) coolant hoses.
Hopefully pmohr or anyone else with TB, EGR coolant hoses by-pass experience could chime in.

1. Where do you exactly re-connect coolant hoses after by-passing TB and EGR coolant hoses?
Do you loop (make a u-shape) to two coolant logs at about rear top center section of the motor where the main coolant pipe runs with the branched coolant log that is plumbed to the TB and to the coolant log that was plumbed to the EGR (back of UIM)?

2. Are there any issues with Emissions, CEL codes, drivability after by-passing TB, EGR (back of UIM) coolant hoses?

Sounds like a good idea to by-pass TB, EGR (back of UIM) coolant hoses as they're a PITA to R&R each time TB and/or UIM has to come off the motor.
I've replaced both VC gaskets and now getting ready to clean both LIM & UIM for reassembly and I would like to by-pass TB, EGR (back of UIM) coolant hoses if there aren't any issues with Emissions, CEL codes, drivability.
TIA for your suggestions and response on this.