OEM head studs VS ARP studs

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Feb 5, 2008 | 11:51 AM

Qbridg3

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From: Lawrenceville, GA

OEM head studs VS ARP studs

I read that OEM 4th gen head studs are stronger than ARP head studs. Is this true?
If they are stronger can they be used on a VQ35 for FI?

Last edited by Qbridg3; Feb 5, 2008 at 11:54 AM.

Feb 5, 2008 | 12:00 PM

pmohr

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The VQ doesn't have head studs, it has head bolts. Yes, the stock head bolts are said to clamp harder than the basic ARP studs (not the L19s).

From Search

Quote:

Originally Posted by nismology

The clamping force that the OEM head bolts can provide are enough for ANY naturally aspirated motor. The general consensus over on my350z is that the stock head bolts actually clamp HARDER than the standard ARP head studs. To do any better you have to get the L19 studs which are complete overkill and impossible to justify the purchase of because they cost so much more than OEM ($449.00 vs. ~$80 for OEM).

The ARP studs are interchangeable (http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....=arp+vq35+vq30), not sure on the head bolts themselves.

Feb 5, 2008 | 02:05 PM

dgeesaman

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Why would you want stronger clamping force?

Either the ARP stud is strong enough to handle the stock torque spec, or it's not. Unless the ARP stud is known for stretching at the stock torque spec there is no reason it won't work. If you want higher strength pick up a class 12.9 bolt.

You certainly do not want to use more than stock torque specs unless you recognize the risk. Overtightening can cause flange warpage, rather than improve it. It's a very common misconception that tighter is better. It's an exhaust pipe, not a propane tank. In fact, in higher temp applications (FI) tighter can be much worse.